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If the issue is confined to the jacking points, these can be repaired by welding sheet metal over them, thus restoring functionality. A few years prior, the cost was $150 per jacking point, potentially extending the lifespan by an additional 2 to 5 years. If additional components, such as the rear subframe, are compromised, it is deemed a scrapper, as further investment is unwarranted.

Certainly utilise eBay for this purpose. I anticipate a minimum of £500, as there are numerous appealing items included.

Indeed, it is the reason I sold my E46 saloon, 53 plate, 204 horsepower, 6-speed manual. Euro 4 without DPF, 157,000 miles; I added 60,000 miles over five years. Purchased for £3,650 and sold for £1,500. The vehicle experienced little issues, namely the water pump and thermostat; even the clutch was original.and battery, 2013 to 2018, enduring fond recollections

If you still appreciate the vehicle, rectify the rust issues. That engine is expected to increase the mileage you have already achieved without significant issues.

Greetings everyone, I have been an infrequent user of this site for an extended period, but this is my first time registering; I seek the insights of this esteemed community. I have owned a 2012 E46 330d M-Sport manual touring with 204 horsepower, and it has shown to be exceptionally reliable. It is mechanically sound; nonetheless, it has succumbed to corrosion. It failed the MOT today due to corrosion around the sills, chassis structure, and jacking points. The garage estimates that repairs could exceed £1,000, leading me to believe that it may no longer be financially feasible. The engine has 142,000 miles, has had a swirl flap deletion, and received a new clutch and flywheel around three years ago. It operates exceptionally well; I thoroughly enjoy driving it, making this a rather sombre day. While it is convenient to summon scrappers, it seems somewhat unethical given the abundance of salvageable components. Is there a demand for these components? Should I attempt to sell it in its current condition on Gumtree or eBay? Thank you in advance.

Simply open the door, position your knee between it and the car body to prevent it from closing, and softly yet firmly apply pressure on the top corner. Repeat this process until the door is sufficiently aligned to be flush. You will be astonished by its ease of bending. It must be positioned slightly deeper than anticipated to achieve a minimal spring action and exert sufficient pressure against the seal to prevent weather infiltration.

Thank you very much. I will examine both of your points.

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Thank you for your response. Negative, to the best of our knowledge. The door was closed in the photographs. I might need to bring it to the auto repair shop.

The door striker plate may require adjustment, or the door seal may be deteriorating.

The doors appear to be slightly warped. My 5 Series experienced this issue when I locked the keys inside, necessitating the RAC to forcibly gain entry. They pried that component to connect their wires and unlock the vehicle, requiring me to subsequently bend it back into place. Has anything of that nature occurred?...or even an attempted burglary? This presumes that the door was securely closed when the photograph was taken, of course.

Greetings, everyone. A few days ago, I entered my automobile and observed a damp area on the driver's seat. Discovered that water has been infiltrating through a minor crevice. What is the optimal method to address this issue? Any assistance would be welcomed. Thank you in advance.

I have not observed any difference upon deleting the flaps. You can verify the position using live data; but, it will not provide any information beyond what you already know. The flaps are soiled and deteriorated at the spindle passage, causing the motor to operate more without effectively advancing the flaps further. It may still be N47, as both can be eliminated. Input the last seven digits of the chassis number into Realoem to ascertain the engine installed.

I have heard and read that I can verify the flap turning position via BimmerLink. Is this correct? I possess the application.

I was informed that my BMW specialist could delete it, therefore I presume it is a B47. Does deletion exacerbate the situation in the long term? I have heard it can impact miles per gallon, fuel usage, and other factors. What is your perspective on this, my friend?

The wear in the flaps will permit the spindle to exceed its limits. The engine type for 2016 may be either N47 or B47. N47 may accommodate a new gasket since the flaps are included; B47 requires a new manifold. Alternatively, there is the option to eliminate flaps.

I apologise for any inadvertent duplicate messages; these are the correct items.

Additional codes

I presume it is either obstructed or adhering. Since I am not receiving any alerts on my dashboard, I am uncertain whether I should proceed with inaction. Will it damage my vehicle?

It depends on the code associated with the swirls, presuming it is a jammed fault code resulting from movement exceeding limits owing to flap wear. individual preference Some suggest installing a replacement manifold (the aftermarket offers reasonably priced options), while others advocate for the removal of the flaps. I personally remove them from my vehicles. Which engine do you possess?