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The hybrid system includes an electric heater, an auxiliary water pump, and a changeover valve to alternate between engine coolant and the electric heater. Thus, it is not as straightforward in a forum post. I would first scan it to determine whether it provides any guidance.

Are there any guides available for resetting the Blend Door Actuator?

Occasionally, you may experience a slight influx of cold air as the air conditioning attempts to cool the cabin under heated conditions. However, get the cooling system inspected, as it is likely the issue.

Apologies, I neglected to include that. BMW 330e, 2016 F30 B48 engine

Which engine? Which year?

It appears that your vehicle's heating system is not regulating the blend effectively. Several factors that may contribute to this: Blend door actuator — it operates the flaps that regulate hot and cold air. In the event of malfunction or obstruction, one may experience abrupt cold air or irregular airflow. If the coolant level is insufficient, the heater core will not receive adequate hot fluid to heat the air. If the thermostat is not functioning correctly, the engine may fail to attain optimal temperature, resulting in inadequate heater performance. Conduct a brief inspection: ensure the coolant is replenished and at the appropriate level, then monitor for any atypical sounds near the dashboard (a clicking actuator is a frequent indicator). If the issue persists, the mix door actuator is the probable cause.

Hello everyone, I trust you are all in good health. Yesterday, I drove my own vehicle to a work conference. All is proceeding smoothly during the drive. I certainly activated the heating. I observed that it was not heating up as it typically does; but, I assumed that the low temperatures outside would allow the automobile to warm up eventually. The heating is functioning properly. I adjusted the temperature to 22 degrees. After 90 minutes of driving, it began to emit chilly air from the air conditioning system. The rate seemed equivalent to the fan operating at settings two or three, despite the heating fan being on its lowest level; I found it perplexing. While on the motorway, I preferred not to engage with it. I temporarily deactivated the heating system and subsequently reactivated it. identical. I subsequently elevated the temperature to 24 degrees. Heat was emitted at a gradual rate. Subsequently, it emitted chilly air from the air conditioning unit. Following a day at the conference, I departed as normal, and a similar occurrence transpired on my journey home. Can somebody elucidate the current situation? Is there anything I can examine to assist with the diagnosis?

Indeed, the cost for the components alone amounts to almost $10,000.

An exceedingly costly endeavour if the original poster must acquire an additional Weistec supercharger. I believe that is a five-figure enhancement.

Reattach the blower immediately! Numerous blown 156s are reported on the US site I frequent, affecting both the 204 and 212 versions, which appear to be rather reliable when operating with reasonable boost levels. With a moderate modification, you can achieve an increase of 150 horsepower; beyond 1000 horsepower is possible with substantial financial investment....and a substantial amount of torque precisely where it is required! The supercharger whine enhances the auditory experience of the 156's performance.

Contact Acid at MSL Performance for guidance. It is highly probable that he installed the supercharger and calibrated it. I would revert it to its original state as soon as possible. 0121 772 5572

Greetings to all I have reconstructed an M156 engine that I purchased following a hydrolock incident. I have subsequently recognised that it formerly operated with a Weistec supercharger, which would have an appropriate map. The question is whether I can utilise this map or if it will result in excessive overfueling consistently. Should I revert it to stock or stage 1 settings prior to attempting to start it? Thank you in advance.

Indeed, I completed all necessary tasks when I replaced the thermostat, so I believe I am adequately prepared in that regard. I observed typical oil spots around the seal positions, which had been improperly installed. It appears that the new MAF required calibration in my situation.

It is advisable to inspect all o-rings and seals on the turbo outlet (aluminium pipe) connecting to the resonator (plastic box at the front of the engine) and the intercooler. I believe your 2010 model possesses the same or a highly comparable engine to my 2009 E280. I recently completed all my maintenance, and the vehicle performs significantly better than before. I previously underestimated its condition, but I now recognise the sluggishness in throttle response and downshifts. Some of these seals may have been compromised during the installation of the new intake; this is how I realised mine need attention, as I subsequently experienced a check engine light owing to many leaks, including a boost leak at the intercooler pipe. I wanted to bring this to your attention, although you may already be aware.

Disconnected the negative terminal for 20 minutes while replacing the fuel filter today. Currently, it is idling more effectively.

You may reset it by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes.

I ultimately resolved the issue. The MAF was indeed defective. I purchased a pre-owned Y-Pipe in superior condition than mine, which included one MAF. I transferred my functional MAF to it, and it accurately registered the temperature and airflow readings. Nevertheless, I occasionally have a minor hitch after startup. During discussions with Avantgarde in Clevedon, they indicated that the adjustments must be recalibrated for optimal performance. The issue is that I currently reside in Scotland, necessitating the search for a reputable independent establishment in Edinburgh. All local garages I have contacted have provided a standard quotation of approximately £90 for one hour of service. I would be more advantageous to purchase a superior fault reader for the two minutes required to reset it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=maf sensor&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X4861dcd0c021bdde75eea8eb0758e1a7&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Does a new MAF sensor require coding or is it plug-and-play?

I am uncertain if this information would be beneficial, however when my MAF sensor went down due to a missing fuse, a prominent characteristic was difficult upshifts. If your vehicle is an automobile and you are encountering the same issue, it likely indicates a malfunctioning MAF sensor. - supposing that MB configures the gearbox ECU to default to elevated line pressures in the absence of MAF sensor data, consistent with my 4L 80E.

How is it functioning?Whenever I experienced MAF failure, the vehicles operated quite poorly.

I have recently replaced the temperature sensor, and I am not surprised that it did not resolve the issue. I have observed that when I disconnect Sensor A, its temperature remains at 79°C whereas Sensor B decreases to 21°C. Upon disconnecting Sensor B, both temperatures stabilise at 79°C. The subsequent course of action appears to be attempting a costly MAF replacement, unless anyone possesses other insights.