<?xml version="1.0"?>
<rss version="2.0"><channel><title>General Car Chat Latest Topics</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/forum/8-general-car-chat/</link><description>General Car Chat Latest Topics</description><language>en</language><item><title>Unforgiving noise and vibrations from the W204 C220 CDI AMG Sport</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3321-unforgiving-noise-and-vibrations-from-the-w204-c220-cdi-amg-sport/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I will do my best to explain this because my search on the boards has only turned up information regarding engine mounts, which I'm sure has nothing to do with what's going on here.<br />
	<br />
	The mileage on my 2012 C220 CDI AMG Sport, a W204, is 101,000. It cost me 79k when I got it four years ago. A clogged DPF, an injector that needed replacing, and a ruptured copper brake line in the back are just a few of the issues it has encountered. Everything is OK now, but ever since I got it, I've observed that the clutch pedal and gear knob tremble rather loudly if you really push the pedal to the floor and shift into the next gear. While this has happened a few times since ownership, the most recent occurrence was on the return trip after an 80-odd mile excursion a few weeks ago. The ride was completely uneventful, and the vibrations continued throughout the journey. It vibrates and makes a deep, metallic grinding sound at rest and throughout the rev range.<br />
	The possibility that the flywheel has fallen was mentioned to me by someone.<br />
	<br />
	Really, all I'm asking is for some suggestions. With a young family and recently being laid off, money is tight and I don't know what to do. Is anyone else familiar with this?<br />
	My first post here is a request for guidance, so please forgive me in advance. Thank you.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3321</guid><pubDate>Sat, 04 Apr 2026 15:55:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Fundamental programming</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3320-fundamental-programming/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Hi,<br />
	I was wondering if anyone in the SE London region knew of somebody who could code.<br />
	I would prefer it if the front indicators stayed on when the daytime running lights were turned on.<br />
	<br />
	If I had a computer, I'd do it myself, but I don't.<br />
	Alternately, would the bimmercode app and a Bluetooth obd adaptor be sufficient for this task?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3320</guid><pubDate>Mon, 30 Mar 2026 14:22:02 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Issue with DPF</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3319-issue-with-dpf/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I figured it was time to rinse DPF with Wynn's fluid. It was discovered to have a hole! Check out the picture. It has me wondering whether it may perhaps produce a pressure leak severe enough to fool the computer into thinking the DPF is full. It seems to reason that a larger pressure differential will result in a larger soot calculation, and vice versa; removing part of the pressure will cause the shown difference to be larger.<br />
	I have 316 electrodes at home, so I'll have to find a nearby welding shop to fix it. Alternatively, I could just buy some 304 tubing and practise on it.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3319</guid><pubDate>Mon, 30 Mar 2026 14:19:03 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Are you asking if a 4-year service plan is available?</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3318-are-you-asking-if-a-4-year-service-plan-is-available/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	My vehicle's license plate has changed to a GLC 300D 25 and I need to establish a maintenance schedule. To keep track of my yearly mileage and other statistics, I use the Mercedes website. The results show a variety of options, including the one I need—a four-year plan with two motorhomes and four services—for £42 per month. I will be contacted by the dealership of my choice to finalise the plan details. When my local dealership entered my information and requested a four-year plan, the system said that only a three-year plan, costing £46 a month, was available. Please, someone, tell me why this might be the case.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3318</guid><pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2026 13:22:17 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Tragically underappreciated W163 ML270 CDI - few problems resolved, few linger</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3317-tragically-underappreciated-w163-ml270-cdi-few-problems-resolved-few-linger/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Welcome, everyone! I recently purchased a 2002 W163 ML270 CDI—a vehicle that did not start and was declared dead upon arrival. So far, I haven't run into many issues; nevertheless, I have a query that I will include at the conclusion of the post as some of them could be useful to others. It had a dead battery, and someone had inserted the 100The right way to connect a block fuse to the positive terminal of a battery is this: bolt on the wire, fuse (which has blown), and last, a plastic nut. I had to temporarily install an external maxi fuse box because the device wasn't making good contact. Afterwards, I discovered that the glow plug lights and coolant would remain turned on. Glow plugs and a plethora of other signals appeared once I connected to the diagnostics, and the coolant temperature showed -40C. I discovered it was detached while searching for a replacement sensor; so, if it reads -40C, inspect the plug and wires. Then, since I wasn't sure of the hue of the coolant that had been used before, I had to add about 7 litres of distilled water to it. I wasn't expecting to have to add so much water, but whatever. After deleting the errors, it runs smoothly without any lights. The only remaining ones are two for the left mirror, and one of them is a heating water circulation pump (B1108-M13). The other two are a rear blower (B100A-M2/1), a rear shut off flap position motor (B1206M2/12), and a high pressure and return pump (C1401 A7/3m1).<br />
	It was strange since after I changed the 100A fuse, the rad fan remained on full blast, the rad light was on, and there were codes P0115-2 (coolant temperature sensor), P1482-4 (glow output overcurrent), and 2, 4, and 5 (glow plug failure). For some reason (don't ask me how), hooking up the temperature sensor reset the codes and restored regular operation of the fan. Currently, I'm seeing an unusual coolant leak that isn't particularly constant. It appears to be coming from behind the washer bottle region, which was initially my suspicion, but now it appears to be leaking coolant. I will verify tomorrow, but it appears to be working and much better thus far. Also, according to the municipal maintenance rules, oil is actually sludge and not oil at all. Anyhow, I'll try to locate the source of the leak and change the oil; I'm curious as to whether or not the head gasket was cooked by the excessive amount of coolant that was missing. Because the device on the positive post was crooked and not making good contact due to its looseness, the vehicle remained still. I can't wait to fix this, but why do people ignore their automobiles for so long? Where can I get a digital copy of the service manual for these?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3317</guid><pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2026 11:24:59 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Android head unit aftermarket canbus inquiry</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3316-android-head-unit-aftermarket-canbus-inquiry/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	To replace the Japanese-locked device, the dealer fitted an Android one. The controls for the steering wheel and air conditioning are operational.<br />
	<br />
	Having said that, the canbus disconnect option is there in the device's factory settings.<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	I understand that choosing Canbus is necessary. Since I was unsure which provider to choose, I looked through all of the options until I realised that chr was one of the models.<br />
	<br />
	However, the message "connected canbus" persists even after I choose it. Am I overlooking anything?<br />
	<br />
	Every bit of information would be helpful because I am completely new to this.<br />
	<br />
	Even though I used Google extensively, I still have no idea how to properly search for this new information.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3316</guid><pubDate>Tue, 24 Mar 2026 09:05:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Assistance with engine and gearbox noise</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3315-assistance-with-engine-and-gearbox-noise/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Greetings to everybody,<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	Could someone please have a listen to this engine sounds and tell me what it is? I'm having trouble figuring out where it's coming from.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3315</guid><pubDate>Tue, 24 Mar 2026 09:02:03 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>When the light switch is turned off and the key is not in the ignition, the E91's nearside headlight will remain on.</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3314-when-the-light-switch-is-turned-off-and-the-key-is-not-in-the-ignition-the-e91s-nearside-headlight-will-remain-on/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I may have a rodent problem because I live in the country. I removed the earth terminal from the battery since I couldn't figure out which fuse was for the headlights, but I was intending to remove it as part of the diagnostic procedure. I can't believe it. Aside from the nearside headlight, everything else is turned off.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3314</guid><pubDate>Mon, 23 Mar 2026 09:37:34 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Ugh, look who's messed up again!</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3313-ugh-look-whos-messed-up-again/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	On the left side of the back of my 2013 E63 estate, I could hear a knocking sound. After I brought it to a nearby MB specialist, they advised me to get a new shocker.<br />
	<br />
	I got the shocker changed, but on the drive home I discovered that the adaptive suspension button was frozen on one light, making it impossible to manipulate.<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	Returned it, and he informed me that they are unable to reprogram the level sensor at this time. So I scheduled the installation of a new level sensor. However, after they finished the job, he contacted me to inform me that they had encountered a another issue—the right shocker's valves were no longer functioning. He then informed me that I also needed a shocker on that side since the adaptive suspension was still not functioning properly.<br />
	<br />
	When I returned home and checked on the vehicle the following day, I noticed that the suspension had significantly lowered. Before now, I've never experienced this issue.<br />
	<br />
	Is there something suspicious going on here, or is this just a coincidence?<br />
	<br />
	I am grateful.<br />
	 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3313</guid><pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2026 08:33:47 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Plugs for contactless electric vehicles</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3312-plugs-for-contactless-electric-vehicles/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Greetings, my wife would want to charge our 24kwh Nissan Leaf occasionally at one of the public charger ports. However, she is not tech-savvy and is hesitant to use her debit card to pay.<br />
	<br />
	We spotted one in a LIDL parking lot; does anyone know of any other places we can discover ones in the area?<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	I am grateful.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3312</guid><pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2026 08:28:55 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Concerning the automatic dimmer and brighter light settings</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3311-concerning-the-automatic-dimmer-and-brighter-light-settings/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I wouldn't consider this a "need" or even notice its absence as I've never had a car with this feature before. Having said that, I'm more interested in knowing whether other CX-30 owners have experienced intermittent issues with this function.<br />
	On occasion, the auto-bright feature performs exactly as I would anticipate it to under ideal conditions; this occurs on the same route night after night, with the same street illumination and everything. On other occasions, the lights don't automatically switch on. One possible explanation is that the 25 mph speed limit in this gated community is not high enough to activate the technology. Like I said before, I'm used to manually switching between low and high beams when needed, so this isn't a huge concern for me. Nonetheless, I find it intriguing.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3311</guid><pubDate>Thu, 19 Mar 2026 11:51:58 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Low power mode - no error code on W176 220cdi</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3310-low-power-mode-no-error-code-on-w176-220cdi/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Greetings to everyone here,<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	My vehicle is a W176 2014 2.1 cdi.<br />
	<br />
	fixed a DPF fault and an exhaust pressure sensor fault since I purchased it; still working through a few other difficulties.<br />
	<br />
	I was a heavy-vehicle mechanic for a while, but I left that field years ago. Lately, I've been thinking that maybe a boost fault is to blame when the car goes into limp mode at higher speeds and boost levels, albeit it happens less frequently while idling. I have examined the vacuum lines and air intake lines for signs of wear, but they appear to be in good condition.<br />
	<br />
	Last night, I conducted a smoke test. I started by checking the vacuum line that goes to the brake cylinder on the bulkhead (I forget its name), and it came back clear. Then, I moved the air intake unit to the area after the air filter to see if there was a problem. To my surprise, I discovered an oil leak that I had never noticed before. It was discovered that the leak was caused by loose screws on the rocker cover. After I snugged them all, I did a smoke test once more, and the leakage stopped. My question now is whether smoke should have been present there initially. I can't recall why smoke from the air intake pipe would wind up in the rocker cover; it's been so long since I played the game. After tightening the screws, I put the car through its paces on the road, but it still goes into limp mode when I apply too much boost pressure or rev too quickly.<br />
	<br />
	Has anyone ever smoke-tested anything before, so I'm not sure if there are certain points to test or if I should use a variety of pipes. Would be eternally grateful for any assistance.<br />
	 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3310</guid><pubDate>Wed, 18 Mar 2026 12:45:25 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>A version of the Mazda CX90 imported to Latin America.</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3309-a-version-of-the-mazda-cx90-imported-to-latin-america/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Greetings everyone:<br />
	<br />
	I was hoping someone could tell me how to install or activate the TPMS sensor in my 2026 Mazda Cx-90.<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	I had a flat tyre this morning and the system didn't give me any warning because the TPMS sensor isn't mounted on the tires in this version. The TPMS system is crucial, and I would like to have it installed.<br />
	<br />
	Warm regards
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3309</guid><pubDate>Tue, 17 Mar 2026 10:07:33 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Inquiry regarding oil and Liqui Moly</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3308-inquiry-regarding-oil-and-liqui-moly/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Hello, I recently serviced my 2012 320d F30 and I am enquiring whether it is permissible to add 300ml of Liqui Moly Ceratec, despite having already added 5.2 litres of oil.<br />
	<br />
	Thank you.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3308</guid><pubDate>Mon, 16 Mar 2026 21:48:44 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Honda CR-V 2011</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3307-honda-cr-v-2011/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Mercedes-Benz 220 CDI from 2012 Seeking advice on what might be a problem
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3307</guid><pubDate>Mon, 16 Mar 2026 16:13:30 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Oh my! Do you not have any?</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3306-oh-my-do-you-not-have-any/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	So, I didn't get a spare, jack, or wheel brace with my new purchase.<br />
	I have a question for the group: has anyone ever needed a jack and wheel brace for their vehicle? If so, have you purchased them?<br />
	I feel like I'll regret not getting them and then I'll never use them if I do.<br />
	<br />
	Is anyone thinking about that?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3306</guid><pubDate>Sat, 14 Mar 2026 09:50:42 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>The integrated seat belt on my 2018 4Series F32 is not retracting.</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3305-the-integrated-seat-belt-on-my-2018-4series-f32-is-not-retracting/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Salutations, Everyone!<br />
	<br />
	In my 2018 convertible 4 Series, the seat belts are built into the seat and are operated manually.<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	Issue: The seat belt for the passenger side won't retract.<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	How do I open the unit? I have looked everywhere but have come up empty-handed. There aren't any fasteners.<br />
	<br />
	The front seat belt retractor is broken; how can I fix it? Must I fully open the seat?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3305</guid><pubDate>Wed, 11 Mar 2026 09:24:47 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>OK with a CX30</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3304-ok-with-a-cx30/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	In addition to this '25CX30,' I also own a '73 RX2,' a '79 RX7, and cars in general are my pastime. My 2013 Focus Titanium hatchback, which has clocked just over 49,000 miles, is being replaced by this.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3304</guid><pubDate>Wed, 11 Mar 2026 09:21:39 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Tank for Oil Expansion S212 E250 CDI</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3303-tank-for-oil-expansion-s212-e250-cdi/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Salutations everyone,<br />
	<br />
	Someone plz assist me. There is oil in the radiator expansion tank of my 2010 S212 E250CDI with 106k miles. When I checked the levels two weeks ago in preparation for my vacation, it most certainly did not. I saw the coolant level alert when I started it up for the first time, and when I looked closer, I saw that it was completely filled with oil. If the oil was the cause of the low coolant level warning, then it had only occurred on the most recent trip.<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	I had it hauled to the garage since I assumed it was an oil cooler, and they confirmed my suspicions. After beginning to disassemble the components, they discovered that the engine oil was devoid of water, but even more perplexingly, there was no oil in the water tubes around the oil cooler. According to their findings, the oil cooler isn't the culprit.<br />
	<br />
	Since I've only had the vehicle for a year, the mechanics who came to inspect it noted that the oil cooler seemed to be relatively new. So far, they have concluded that the oil cooler is not to blame because neither the oil nor the water in the pipes surrounding it contain any oil.<br />
	<br />
	When they removed the oil from the line that went to the top of the expansion tank—the Bleed line, if you will, according to the drawing that is attached and labeled '250'—a small quantity of oil remained at the end where it connected to the top of the radiator. Instead of entering through it, the oil could have drained back down there if the level had been higher. Because of this, we still have no idea how the oil got here.<br />
	<br />
	Oil in the expansion tank has led them to speculate that it may be transmission oil, a theory with which I disagree. The oil is dark in color, has no emulsion, and flows freely. I would be amazed to see ATF oil that appears healthy and jet black, even when I account for the fact that it darkens with age.<br />
	<br />
	They think the gearbox oil cooler in the radiator has cracked, but I'm not convinced by the jet black color and would value your opinion.<br />
	<br />
	We are now investigating the matter and have temporarily halted the process. The oil cooler can't be the only possible culprit. Possible choices:<br />
	<br />
	Head gasket: I'm not sure, because the expansion tank has an excessive amount of oil. The tank had been filled to the top of the screwcap. Furthermore, there was absolutely no milkiness or emulsion, leading me to believe that it probably is. It ran well as I drove it into the retrieval vehicle, and there was no smoke of any kind.<br />
	<br />
	Is there gearbox oil that looks like that? I don't think so, because it was clean and black when I changed it a few months ago. Six months ago, during an autobox service, the gearbox oil was changed. Is the ATF still behind it?<br />
	<br />
	Is it feasible for a cracked block to let the passage of oil into a water jacket but not the flow of water into oil?<br />
	<br />
	Could there be any other possible reasons? The mechanics have temporarily halted the process because they haven't figured out how to get to the oil cooler—which means the car isn't completely disassembled—but they still have a couple of hours to go before it can be run again.<br />
	<br />
	How can we verify that the gearbox oil is free of contaminants? Unfortunately, we are unable to access the gearbox fluid to assess its condition because the unit is sealed for life and does not appear to have a sump drain or an accessible filler. Can the filled-in pipe be lowered in any way? Is it possible for the black oil in the expansion tank to be ATF?<br />
	<br />
	Do you have any ideas on how we might focus our inquiry to find out what's causing this? Any advice you could provide me would be greatly appreciated. The mechanic is confused and first recommended a top end rebuild before recommending a new gearbox as a remedy. Therefore, I also believe they are unaware of this.<br />
	<br />
	I would greatly appreciate any assistance you can provide.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3303</guid><pubDate>Wed, 11 Mar 2026 08:19:06 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Locate the dash cam fuse for the 2024 Sportage</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3302-locate-the-dash-cam-fuse-for-the-2024-sportage/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Hi, I'm sure someone has already answered this, but I can't seem to locate a thread that specifies which fuses my DashCam needs. My dash cam won't turn off, and parking mode is disabled, so I began by adjusting the battery and multimedia settings for acc. People have used different fuse placements. For your information, I have included a copy of the fuse box layout.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3302</guid><pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2026 10:58:01 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>The AMG Factor and the ML63 Suspension Bush</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3301-the-amg-factor-and-the-ml63-suspension-bush/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Car number 164 is an ML63 AMG. Even though there is no play in either of them, the hydro-bushes in the back of the vehicle are leaking from the front and rear of the vehicle.<br />
	<br />
	These suspension arms are same across the board on the W164s; however, the AMG models are the only ones with hydro-bushes, while the rest of the models utilise solid rubber or metal components, meaning that an arm from a different version will fit on the 63. The arm is fastened to the bush and mounting casting using a single big bolt that passes through the center.<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	If your vehicle isn't an AMG, you can easily find aftermarket replacement bushes from a number of manufacturers. One option is an exceptionally affordable Chinese set that includes all the bushes for both arms, but I'm not interested in that. Autodoc sells two for £150, however I haven't compared the reviews of Ridex, Esen, Metzger, Sidem, RTS, ALTE, or Spidan to determine which brand is better. Also, I haven't looked into how much a pair from Mercedes would cost.<br />
	<br />
	Unfortunately, MB does not sell only the bushes, and no aftermarket vendor offers them, perhaps because to the low production numbers of AMGs. Therefore, a set of new arms is the sole option for replacement; £1300 to you, squire (I'm not sure whether that amount includes VAT...). :oops: :oops:<br />
	<br />
	Just a couple of the regular, non-AMG bushes would have sufficed; I don't see how hydro- or solid-rubber would have made much of a difference in such a tiny bush. Who here thinks this is a poor plan?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3301</guid><pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2026 10:55:38 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Should I Hire Someone Else to Fix My OM651 Oil Cooler and Water Pump?</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3300-should-i-hire-someone-else-to-fix-my-om651-oil-cooler-and-water-pump/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Now I'll give you an update (and ask anyone who has dealt with this before).<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	With 15,000 kilometres on the clock since purchase, I should probably get another oil change soon anyhow.<br />
	The coolant leak, which has been going on for the past month, is emanating from the area around the water pump.<br />
	It appears to be very easy to order a new pump, so I have already done that.<br />
	<br />
	On the other hand, I've discovered a huge oil leak.<br />
	The engine's undercarriage is a disaster, yet I'm not losing much oil.<br />
	<br />
	It appears that the oil cooler/filter housing is leaking, according to some camera-based investigation.<br />
	My research suggests that this is a classic OM651 issue.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3300</guid><pubDate>Fri, 06 Mar 2026 13:44:07 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Why isn't the washer fluid going where it should?</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3299-why-isnt-the-washer-fluid-going-where-it-should/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	No problems at all with my washer fluid... while ATTENTED to a traffic signal. YET, while going over fifty miles per hour, it completely omits the region that the motorist can see in front of their nose! Fluids can't clean that area because of the wind. Terrible layout; give it a go the next time you're driving. Look at that dry spot and tell me I'm incorrect...
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3299</guid><pubDate>Thu, 05 Mar 2026 18:10:36 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Why is a 208k X5 3.0d Sport Auto going for &#xA3;1600?</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3298-why-is-a-208k-x5-30d-sport-auto-going-for-%C2%A31600/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Is this worth a go as a low-cost winter hack?<br />
	<br />
	the registration number is KJ55 UNR<br />
	<br />
	<br />
	Jul 2026 - MOT<br />
	<br />
	FSH has<br />
	<br />
	Diesel engine upgrade to 218 horsepower
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3298</guid><pubDate>Thu, 05 Mar 2026 17:49:55 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>The 20th audio with UCI</title><link>https://mazda5forums.co.uk/topic/3297-the-20th-audio-with-uci/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I recently acquired a 2010 A207 (technically an E class convertible, but it's actually a C class...) equipped with an Audio 20 that has an integrated CD changer. Additionally, it has the Universal Communications Interface (Option 518), as stated on the LastVin datacard. Does it only work with Bluetooth, or can I also use it to play music from an SD card or USB stick? If the latter, where can I find the appropriate connector? It's not here; I've searched everywhere.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3297</guid><pubDate>Thu, 05 Mar 2026 17:44:31 +0000</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
