DreamCatcher88

Thank you for your response. The pipes were not replaced; however, they were inspected for leaks, and none were detected. I will connect the automobile to get the data captured when the "Malfunction" light illuminated. Would the malfunction light remain on continuously if the height sensors had failed?

I am engaged in a year-long struggle with my self-leveling rear suspension. The vehicle is equipped just with self-leveling rear suspension, lacking Airmatic suspension at both the front and rear. For many months, the automobile suspension would lower overnight, sometimes affecting both sides, other times just one side, and sometimes remaining stable for weeks without any drop. Recently, the situation has deteriorated, with frequent nightly drops occurring, affecting either one side or both sides intermittently. Due to the inconsistency, I did not believe the bags could be leaking, as I assumed that if they were, the leakage would be constant. I decisively replaced the control valve behind the rear bumper with an authentic MB component. The defect persisted. I purchased aftermarket bags, changed them, and resolved the issue. The mechanic conducted a leak test on the old bags, confirming they were indeed leaking. The automobile has functioned properly for almost one month. However, last week, during a cold snap, I received a malfunction indicator. I saw no more symptoms. The fault indicator had reset upon my subsequent ignition of the vehicle. However, this evening, during another cold snap, when I exited the roundabout and merged into the motorway slip lane, the vehicle began to bounce pretty violently. It was so severe that I had to decrease my speed to 40 mph and activate my hazard warning lights. Shortly after the bouncing started, the malfunction indicator illuminated (image of a vehicle with a downward arrow). The bouncing persisted for around 2 miles, and when exiting the freeway, while halted at the roundabout, the dashboard displayed the message “Wait – Vehicle rising.” This resolved after around 30 seconds, following which the vehicle functioned normally. Upon restarting the engine, the problem indicator had vanished. Could someone assist me with this, please?

No manufacturers produce vehicles for the Australian market any more. Mazda delivers the identical models to you that they supply to the UK. Occasionally, they alter the trimlines somewhat.

Are you referring to the transfer case?

Thank you for the forum; I am experiencing the same problem and same failure codes. 335D xDrive. I assume that by TC you are talking to the traction control fuse?

I believe that Mazda addresses any issues that may cause consumers to become stranded or experience power loss while driving with utmost seriousness. I possess a January 2024 PHEV and no longer concern myself with the risk of bricking; I have not had any low battery or hybrid malfunction problems. While future concerns may arise, I believe the most severe bricking problems are now behind us. Nonetheless, the powertrain remains quite abrupt, and the gearbox tends to "crunch" when initiating movement from a stationary position.

Have you utilised eBay? Locate component number 13537800667

Salutations to everybody. I hope you are in excellent health. Could anybody recommend an AMG specialist in the Buckinghamshire area, please? I really appreciate it.

Good luck lol. Let us know how you get on.

My vehicle has the same issue around once a month, consistently when in motion; it has never happened at starting or while using cruise control. It mainly occurs after encountering a pothole or an abrupt road irregularity. I have no want to remove my front bumper, and my vehicle is an early 2011 AB model that seems to retain certain components from 2010. The 2010 model had two sensors under the bumper, however the subsequent 2011 and 2012 models are equipped with a single sensor located below the bumper cover. I am uncertain about the version I own, or if I have the dual sensor version, and which one, if any, is defective. I am unable to access the area under the bumper to verify if the connector(s) may be loose. I suppose I will endure it, at least until the temperature significantly increases in this area.

I used this on my W211 headlights with a polishing pad attached to a drill. It functioned effectively.

Deception/hoax.

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Cycle the ignition several times, allowing a 10-second interval between attempts. It should have been primed while cranking, to be honest.