DreamCatcher88

I had my back windows tinted by a competent glazing business and do not regret the additional expense. The tint matched that of an FF tint and required 36 hours to complete, as all the back windows were removed for the process. A poorly executed tint job is visually unappealing. The individual declined to complete the fronts, while I had no desire for them to be done. The sole maintenance recommendation he provided was to refrain from using the rear windows for 48 hours to ensure optimal adhesion of the tint. I have never seen an issue with it, and it is definitely worth the £200 invested.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=fuel pressure&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X64985477e5f878ff2dadd5618c292c2b&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Thank you for the information. I will clean the pumps and mesh, change the filter on the opposite side, and test the fuel pressure under full load. The fuel pressure at the rail appears satisfactory at '83 PSI', decreasing to '76 PSI' after thirty minutes with the pumps deactivated. I intend to replace the pumps for reassurance.

Upon tracing the wiring from the pumps, I ultimately discovered the solitary fuel pump relay that was incinerated. Connected a spare 40A relay for testing, and the vehicle started immediately with optimal fuel pressure. The positive pump wires are RED/BLUE, not RED/YELLOW as previously indicated - please refer to the attached picture. The RED/YELLOW positive wires originate from the 90A Green Fuse located at position 90 in the rear pre-fuse box beneath the trim on the right side of the spare wheel well. It was concealed deep within the right-hand baggage compartment of the HK Subwoofer. Remove the 5x10mm screws, pivot the subwoofer aside, and you will observe its attachment to the wheel arch. Certain later E55 versions are equipped with dual relays. Now upgraded to a high-quality single 60A, as it was operating at elevated temperatures when replaced with a 40A. Operates at a significantly lower temperature!

Could someone assist, please? Where is my E55 Fuel Pump Relay for the 2003 S211 E55 AMG Estate? The dual fuel pumps have failed; the vehicle cranks but does not start. My multimeter indicates that there is no power to the pumps when the ignition is activated and the engine is turning. The vehicle commenced operation immediately and functions when direct current is supplied to the wiring of one pump located beneath the offside rear seat - RED/YELLOW wire and BROWN wire! I have located what appears to be the fuse labelled '90' - refer to the attached image. The top is broken off, yet it remains fully intact and operational, exhibiting no indications of damage or overheating. However, the location of the relay is unclear. I assume that both the relay and the connector may be damaged. The fuse and relay diagram provided with the vehicle, located behind the driver's dashboard side panel, indicates that fuse F04 (20A) in the rear N/S SAM and fuse bank—behind the left-hand boot side panel—is associated with Relay 'A', the first from the bottom. However, I have discovered that this information is inaccurate; fuse F04 and the small Relay 'A' are designated for the intercooler pump in E55 AMG models. Some owners in the US indicate that the fuse and relay are located behind the right-hand side panel of the trunk; however, this appears to apply solely to sedan vehicles, not station waggons. The internet and AI are fraught with inaccuracies. I appreciate your assistance in advance.

Thank you for your response. The pipes were not replaced; however, they were inspected for leaks, and none were detected. I will connect the automobile to get the data captured when the "Malfunction" light illuminated. Would the malfunction light remain on continuously if the height sensors had failed?

I am engaged in a year-long struggle with my self-leveling rear suspension. The vehicle is equipped just with self-leveling rear suspension, lacking Airmatic suspension at both the front and rear. For many months, the automobile suspension would lower overnight, sometimes affecting both sides, other times just one side, and sometimes remaining stable for weeks without any drop. Recently, the situation has deteriorated, with frequent nightly drops occurring, affecting either one side or both sides intermittently. Due to the inconsistency, I did not believe the bags could be leaking, as I assumed that if they were, the leakage would be constant. I decisively replaced the control valve behind the rear bumper with an authentic MB component. The defect persisted. I purchased aftermarket bags, changed them, and resolved the issue. The mechanic conducted a leak test on the old bags, confirming they were indeed leaking. The automobile has functioned properly for almost one month. However, last week, during a cold snap, I received a malfunction indicator. I saw no more symptoms. The fault indicator had reset upon my subsequent ignition of the vehicle. However, this evening, during another cold snap, when I exited the roundabout and merged into the motorway slip lane, the vehicle began to bounce pretty violently. It was so severe that I had to decrease my speed to 40 mph and activate my hazard warning lights. Shortly after the bouncing started, the malfunction indicator illuminated (image of a vehicle with a downward arrow). The bouncing persisted for around 2 miles, and when exiting the freeway, while halted at the roundabout, the dashboard displayed the message “Wait – Vehicle rising.” This resolved after around 30 seconds, following which the vehicle functioned normally. Upon restarting the engine, the problem indicator had vanished. Could someone assist me with this, please?

No manufacturers produce vehicles for the Australian market any more. Mazda delivers the identical models to you that they supply to the UK. Occasionally, they alter the trimlines somewhat.

Are you referring to the transfer case?

Thank you for the forum; I am experiencing the same problem and same failure codes. 335D xDrive. I assume that by TC you are talking to the traction control fuse?

I believe that Mazda addresses any issues that may cause consumers to become stranded or experience power loss while driving with utmost seriousness. I possess a January 2024 PHEV and no longer concern myself with the risk of bricking; I have not had any low battery or hybrid malfunction problems. While future concerns may arise, I believe the most severe bricking problems are now behind us. Nonetheless, the powertrain remains quite abrupt, and the gearbox tends to "crunch" when initiating movement from a stationary position.

Have you utilised eBay? Locate component number 13537800667

Salutations to everybody. I hope you are in excellent health. Could anybody recommend an AMG specialist in the Buckinghamshire area, please? I really appreciate it.

Good luck lol. Let us know how you get on.