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When incorporated functions are enabled or disabled depending on trim, it sounds like "coding" in a number of German manufactures. In a similar vein, there are numerous cloned diagnostic tools (such as GM Tech 2 and Porsche PIWIS) and third-party products (such as Autel, Foxwell, Carly, Thinkdiag, etc.) that can still decode the vehicles. Has it been verified that a high-end Autel or similar device does not have these settings? Does MDARS require internet connectivity in order to function (web browser/console based) or is it merely utilised to verify an active MDARS licence with Mazda? In the latter case, the emergence of clones wouldn't shock me in the least.

Apologies, I was perusing the content via the mobile app and failed to notice the attachment. I was wondering whether there would be any additional fees for Mazad dealers to make adjustments. Without a GPS, the only things that show on my car's projected display are stop signs and do not enter signs; it does not show traffic lights or the names of streets.

You can find the.Pdf file in the "Attachments" folder. You can only get your vehicle adjusted at a Mazda dealership, as I mentioned in the introduction.

Could you kindly let me have the PDF file? I might give the option I can adjust a go, or at the very least check out the price for my CX-90 2024. Gives me the willies.

The following are some of the frequently asked questions regarding the user features of Generation 7 Mazda vehicles (model years 2019–present): Mazda Connect, the position of the active driving display on the screen, the size of the instrument cluster text, the adjustment of the volume warning sound, driver assistance features such as speed restriction or monitoring, safety alerts, driving position, the auto on/off function of the door locks, and many more. I have converted the list to a PDF for your convenience because it is quite huge. I apologise in advance if the categories do not line up perfectly, but after four hours of checking and converting, I stopped worrying about it. I should emphasise that most of these adjustments can only be made through Mazda Dealer Diagnostics using MDARS. The specific adjustments that can be made depend on the model, which can range from a Mazda3 to a CX-90. However, as time goes on, more and more Mazda models in most countries are getting these features as standard equipment, such as SOS Alerts, Rollover Alerts, Driver Attention, Emergency Service Automatic Calling, MyMazda App, etc. "Google Built in" is an additional feature of the brand-new KM CX-5 for 2026. There is no way for me to compile a comprehensive list of all the features available in your country's models at this time; nevertheless, if you notice anything in the.Pdf file, please let me know. Please see the attached document and then contact your local Mazda dealer; nevertheless, many will dismiss your request, claiming incompetence or laziness, despite the fact that, in my estimation, 85% of all listings are satisfied.Assuming your Mazda is from Generation 7 and manufactured after 2024, you should be able to accomplish PDF. Just connect your car to the OBD port and MDARS. It's not hard; for example, the dealer can search for "Door Locks" or "Active Driving Display" in MDARS to find user options. You can adjust the Active Driving Display in your CX-90 to one of 31 different positions on the inside of the windscreen. I didn't know that you could also set the Display Brightness to Auto Adjust. In any case...

Over the years, I've done it three or four times on each vehicle. Since my driveway is slanted, I level the car by driving it onto wheel ramps. Fuchs and one of those inexpensive transfer pumps from eBay have always made refilling a breeze. It’s such a cheap job as diy .

Yes, you did; it was my error. On two occasions, I have lifted my C55 using the differential, but each time, I have had to remove the metal heat sink, which is a major pain in and of itself. Rip the heat sink bolts, jack the car up one side, lower it back down, jack it under the differential and so on. The idea is clear. It hurts.

Yes, I did that, and you can find it in the previous post. I apologise for the delay in writing the post; it's conceivable that I was editing when you added this comment. I started by posting the thread partially completed on my phone, which was too sluggish, and then switched to using a computer so I could type faster 👍.

Nice piece of writing, but please allow me to add anything. Loosen the filler plug before replenishing the diff fluid.

https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/sheet/235.7

The w212's rear differential oil was just changed. On Black Friday, I bought two 1-liter bottles of Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE 75W-85 from Opie Oils for about £10 each, and it's listed as an acceptable fluid by Mercedes Bevo. Merc probably used that as the fluid in their bottles. Evidently, Fuchs is the only authorised provider of PAS fluid, as my recent thread on power steering fluid and the link to Bevo both indicate. Mercato clearly uses Fuchs extensively. Both the differential's fill and drain plugs are 14 mm hex key, which is similar to a big allen key shape. A 14 mm sump key socket on a 3/8" square ratchet drive was part of my Laser sump key set, and it was the perfect match for the plug head. Prior to attempting to remove the drain plugs, clean them thoroughly and spray them with penetrating solution. Wait at least fifteen minutes. I discovered that a 3/8" ratchet was sufficient to fit it into the gap between the exhaust, eliminating the requirement for a wobbling universal coupler. I utilised this method since I was afraid of jacking up the differential; nevertheless, I am unable to guarantee the safety of jacking up, thus I cannot endorse it. Only on MOT ramps or a 4-post lift would I feel competent to accomplish this task. Although many would recommend using axle stands, doing so exposes you to the possibility of jacking up the vehicle solely via the differential—which is already corroding after 12 years—and, in comparison to, say, a wheel and three feet of railway sleeper, I don't feel particularly secure under two neatly assembled axle supports with their relatively narrow bases. If the jack were to release, I would not be surprised if the heavily chunky and square-cut timber beneath the rear subframe could easily sustain the weight of the vehicle, especially with a wheel properly under the sill. Any 'drop' would be minor because there was less than 5mm of space between the subframe and the lumber and the wheel and between the sill and the wheel. After raising the passenger side rear with a jack, I took the rear wheel off and placed it halfway under the car, under the sill and as near to the jack as I could get it. Under the rear subframe, I tucked a couple of large pieces of railway sleeper. beneath the watchful eye of an assistant who had received extensive training on how to use the jack, I snuck beneath the vehicle, cracked open the fill plug, and climbed back out. Only a few seconds. Lower the vehicle to the ground after reattaching the wheel. With the wheel beneath the sill and the railway sleepers under the rear subframe, I proceeded to jack up the driver's side using the identical procedure as described earlier. While under supervision, I slid under and completely undid the drain stopper, which I promptly dumped into the oil collect pan. In the space of twenty seconds beneath the vehicle. After that, I cautiously lowered this side onto the jack to make the differential lean slightly towards the drain hole. After the water had drained (which took around 20 minutes), I jack-knifed the vehicle again, this time positioning the related wheels and railway sleepers, and reinserted the drain plug from underneath. Roughly twenty seconds. Once you've lowered it, put the wheel back on the driver's rear. Once again, we must return to the rear of the vehicle on the passerger side, lift it up, remove the wheels, and place them under the sill, in addition to the railway sleepers. Noting that the car is sloping away from the fill hole, which causes a slight overfill of diff oil, I was able to remove the fill plug by reaching between the brake disc and the front of the rear wheel arch with a couple of socket extensions. I then filled up the differential without getting under the car by using a giant oil syringe/extractor with approximately 2 feet of clear, stiff poly hose. Next, I levelled the vehicle by lowering it, which allowed the extra oil to drain to the proper level. I jacked the car back up, set the wheel under the sill, etc., and then spent another 30 seconds whipping around under the car to fit the plug. After that, I quickly cleaned up with some baby wipes. The job took approximately 90 minutes due to all the wheel on/wheel off, jack up/lower, repeat/repeat manoeuvres. However, I was more at ease with the car having three wheels on the ground, one under the sill and railway sleepers, and the front wheels chocked than with the rear wheels fully elevated on both sides using axle stands. This is especially true for rear wheel drive cars, where the front wheels are unrestricted by gears or handbrakes.

rear nearside, i.e., the passenger side in a right-hand drive vehicle, is where you'll find the sensor that regulates the speedometer, fuel gauge, and other instruments. I had to change mine once after the trifecta lights came up; the process wasn't difficult, but I did need protective eyewear because grit stayed in my eyes for a week.

I feel like the DSC light is flashing more often than it should be, as if it were trying to tell me something is wrong. It wasn't until two weeks ago that the light came on; I've had the car for eight months. Even though there was a cold spell and the roads were icy and frosty. Whenever I drive any of my other cars, the traction light will occasionally come on. It popped up six times on my six-mile commute to work this morning. Several were moving slowly in a straight line, while others were steered. Last night, things started up again after I struck a daily snag. I drove down the highway for a short distance and everything was OK. It was as expected that the DSC kicked in (I could feel it) and I accelerated when I got off and turned left. At slow speeds, the light doesn't seem to indicate that the system has turned on. Even though I'm not a fan of Goodyear Eagle F1 tires—they tramline too much—there's a tonne of tread remaining on them. Over the weekend, I will verify the pressures. Since no codes have been returned, it may be prudent to clean the wheel sensors. I can only assume that they are drenched in filth, what with all the rain that has fallen.

All it takes to untie them is a good spritz of penetrating fluid followed by a little twist and pull to the left or right. Never had an issue with changing bolts, so I'm sure they'll be fine.

You can disable the AI function or just ignore its advice; it's useless. 😉

When traction is being lost, such as on snow, wet roads, gravel, etc., it is typical for the DSC light to flicker. That is not important. The lights remaining on at all times is out of the ordinary; I had a similar experience last year, throughout the winter and rain, after the DSC light started flickering. Similar to what Johnny mentioned, it might be a mechanical problem with the sensor, ring, or sensor wire. However, it could also be the result of a software glitch in the control unit or a computer flaw that prevented the CAN from receiving data. Sometimes, computers do experience issues. I would assume that this problem rarely happens because of a software bug in a unit connected to the CAN, because your ABS and DCS still function, just like they do on my car, even with the warning lights. 🤷‍♂️ My advice would be to wait it out and not replace anything until you've given it a good inspection. 😉

I assume you mean the right side of the vehicle when you say "drivers side"?

I travelled to work this morning after clearing the codes last night. While navigating slightly around a large puddle, the lights remained off for fifteen minutes, at which time the DSC light flashed three times. In an operational state, this is considered typical, as stated in the manual. When I arrived at work, I checked for codes, and everything is still in order. If it's a sensor, do they suddenly stop operating or do they return intermittently? I'm sure they'll return.

https://www.sytnerstevenagebmwparts.co.uk/p/132038307/34526752702.html

Is it better to buy a real sensor outright, or are there any less expensive options that still work?

https://www.sytnerstevenagebmwparts.co.uk/p/Bmw__740dX/ISA-screw-M6X16-88-ZNNIV/131952312/07129905536.html

Yours faithfully. Another issue with Google is that it also returns AI results, which can indicate that something else is broken or has failed, even though the code for that specific area is different. All the lights seem to be pointing to this, with the exception of the DSC and ABS signals, so I'm crossing my fingers that it's not the module failing. Or am I mistaken? The handbook is also not very useful. As you sit in the car, is the rear right side the driver's side or the passenger side? It lacks specificity! How do these sensors often eliminate things? Fifteen years ago, when attempting to remove one from a vehicle, they snapped. Would using brake cleaner and the washer test be beneficial? Is it probable that these bolts will snap? Should I replace them? These are a major target for eBay vendors. BMW costs 74p, however they charge a fixed sum of £8 for shipping. I have never seen if the dealer closest to me sells parts, so I will have to investigate that.

What mentioned is something I'll echo. Putting a washer in the gap between the sensor and the hub is an experiment, but remember that this is just a test.

Based on the symptoms and code, it seems that the rear right sensor or the reluctor could be the culprit. With a 99% certainty, Speedo uses data from the rear left sensor.

Every once in a while for the past two weeks, the traction control light has been flashing on and off. Typically, it happens as you exit the same intersection. I didn't give it a second thought because, as with other automobiles I've owned, I assumed it was only a warning that it had kicked in due to the rain and greasy roads. Today going home from work I decided to take the car for a run as it's been a while. Strangely, the light turned on whenever we were travelling in a straight path. The moment I got on the highway, every light went out. I proceeded at a leisurely pace for the last 10 miles because it appeared to be driving and braking normally. When I returned home, I scanned the vehicle and now I have the following: wheel speeds as reported by EGS CAN 005DC1-Rear Right ABS/DSC Wheel Speed Sensor I will check tomorrow to see if the codes are immediately back on or if it takes some time. However, it appears that the traction light's illumination served as an alert that something was malfunctioning, rather than the system activating! What should I look for initially? It seems the speedo won't operate if the rear sensor goes, but I've found that it actually does. Could it be the module, the ABS ring, or the sensor?