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Indeed, I completed all necessary tasks when I replaced the thermostat, so I believe I am adequately prepared in that regard. I observed typical oil spots around the seal positions, which had been improperly installed. It appears that the new MAF required calibration in my situation.

Disconnected the negative terminal for 20 minutes while replacing the fuel filter today. Currently, it is idling more effectively.

I ultimately resolved the issue. The MAF was indeed defective. I purchased a pre-owned Y-Pipe in superior condition than mine, which included one MAF. I transferred my functional MAF to it, and it accurately registered the temperature and airflow readings. Nevertheless, I occasionally have a minor hitch after startup. During discussions with Avantgarde in Clevedon, they indicated that the adjustments must be recalibrated for optimal performance. The issue is that I currently reside in Scotland, necessitating the search for a reputable independent establishment in Edinburgh. All local garages I have contacted have provided a standard quotation of approximately £90 for one hour of service. I would be more advantageous to purchase a superior fault reader for the two minutes required to reset it.

I have recently replaced the temperature sensor, and I am not surprised that it did not resolve the issue. I have observed that when I disconnect Sensor A, its temperature remains at 79°C whereas Sensor B decreases to 21°C. Upon disconnecting Sensor B, both temperatures stabilise at 79°C. The subsequent course of action appears to be attempting a costly MAF replacement, unless anyone possesses other insights.

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Greetings, everyone. I am receiving many trouble codes on my 2010 E350. The initial focus is on the Air Intake Temperature sensor, which I intend to replace due to the original appearing contaminated, and the cost is sufficiently low. I was informed that the codes are associated with a defective MAF sensor. Enclosed are the codes and the real-time readings from my Maf sensors. Unplugging sensor B results in a value of 0g. Upon disconnecting Sensor A, the readout displays 166g, while Sensor B subsequently increases to 8g. I am willing to invest in a replacement MAF but seek guidance before making any purchases.

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Numerous friction material deposits were present at the bottom of the pan; however, the mechanic who replaced my ATF and filter reported that the interior of the gearbox appeared pretty clean.

The ATF level is accurate and has been verified. The mechanic who conducted the most recent inspection of the vehicle informed me that there is certainly an issue with the valve body, and it is quite probable that there is also deterioration in the clutch packs. This remains a possibility, as the vehicle has not undergone live data diagnostics; nonetheless, based on the symptoms, multiple individuals have indicated that repairing this gearbox may not be economically viable.

The gearbox exhibited this issue prior to the fluid change. I utilised authentic Mercedes ATF and added a new genuine Mercedes connector plug. Transmission fluid was present within the previous plug. The gearbox pan utilised non-OEM bolts, and the drain bolt was stripped, indicating that an inexperienced individual had previously serviced the gearbox before my acquisition of the vehicle. I have possessed the vehicle for around one year.

Greetings, I want counsel concerning the transmission of my E270 CDI. Below is a comprehensive account of the issue along with pertinent facts that may assist. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN): WDB2110161A309273 Transmission: 722.640 (variant 04) The issue: When the gearbox is cold, the 1–2 upshift might be excessively abrupt and occurs prematurely, approximately at 1600–1700 RPM. However, when the gearbox reaches a temperature of approximately 80–90°C, I have a distinct issue between 2nd and 3rd gear. As the vehicle nears 2000 RPM, the RPM begins to increase autonomously, suggesting a potential loss of hydraulic pressure or slippage in the gearbox, even in the absence of further throttle application. The RPM experiences a little spike and varies for around 2 to 3 seconds until the gear ultimately engages. The gearbox is unable to maintain pressure or execute a seamless 2–3 shift until it "catches" and finalises the transition. The ATF was replaced 500 kilometres ago, along with a new filter and connecting plug. My enquiries: Should I disassemble the gearbox to examine the valve body or clutch packs, or is it more prudent to seek a quality used 722.640 unit? Which transmissions are compatible with my vehicle? Is my vehicle exclusively compatible with the 722.640 gearbox from the 2.7 CDI? Are transmissions from other engines (2.2 CDI, 3.2 CDI, petrol engines) compatible? If they are physically compatible, are they also electronically and hydraulically compatible? Any guidance or insights would be very valued. I appreciate your assistance in advance!

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It was successful on the third attempt. Upon removal and reinsertion of the fuse, it resets to 12 o'clock rather than resuming from its previous position (first attempt...). It accomplishes this by rotating the hands the longer distance from their previous position to 12 o'clock, rather than the shorter route. It surpasses 12 o'clock, reverting to approximately 10:45 before returning to 12 o'clock (third attempt...). It is now approximately one minute behind, but life is too brief, and I lack the motivation to address it.

This vehicle lacks a mechanism to reset the clock via the instrument cluster; the only modifications available in the 'Settings' menu of the instrument cluster display are the digital speed display, odometer units (mph or kph), and language selection. The fuse is now blown, and my phone is programmed to alert me just prior to the need for replacement. I remain hopeful that it will succeed, as I perceive no rationale for its failure.