motorman3

Impressively creative, Have you released all of the air from the brakes?

Good day, Long ago, I came into this world in the county of Leicester. I departed at the age of 2½.

I have tested it, and it successfully uploads my JPG files from the photographs I captured. Ensure that the image you are attempting to upload is indeed a JPG file. If it is a .JPEG, you may alter the extension to .JPG. Alternatively, you can convert the image from its current format to JPG using a conversion or editing application.

No sealant on the purple seals, my friend. Should the glow plugs be replaced when everything is disassembled? Well done!

Indeed, I completed all necessary tasks when I replaced the thermostat, so I believe I am adequately prepared in that regard. I observed typical oil spots around the seal positions, which had been improperly installed. It appears that the new MAF required calibration in my situation.

Disconnected the negative terminal for 20 minutes while replacing the fuel filter today. Currently, it is idling more effectively.

I ultimately resolved the issue. The MAF was indeed defective. I purchased a pre-owned Y-Pipe in superior condition than mine, which included one MAF. I transferred my functional MAF to it, and it accurately registered the temperature and airflow readings. Nevertheless, I occasionally have a minor hitch after startup. During discussions with Avantgarde in Clevedon, they indicated that the adjustments must be recalibrated for optimal performance. The issue is that I currently reside in Scotland, necessitating the search for a reputable independent establishment in Edinburgh. All local garages I have contacted have provided a standard quotation of approximately £90 for one hour of service. I would be more advantageous to purchase a superior fault reader for the two minutes required to reset it.

I have recently replaced the temperature sensor, and I am not surprised that it did not resolve the issue. I have observed that when I disconnect Sensor A, its temperature remains at 79°C whereas Sensor B decreases to 21°C. Upon disconnecting Sensor B, both temperatures stabilise at 79°C. The subsequent course of action appears to be attempting a costly MAF replacement, unless anyone possesses other insights.

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Greetings, everyone. I am receiving many trouble codes on my 2010 E350. The initial focus is on the Air Intake Temperature sensor, which I intend to replace due to the original appearing contaminated, and the cost is sufficiently low. I was informed that the codes are associated with a defective MAF sensor. Enclosed are the codes and the real-time readings from my Maf sensors. Unplugging sensor B results in a value of 0g. Upon disconnecting Sensor A, the readout displays 166g, while Sensor B subsequently increases to 8g. I am willing to invest in a replacement MAF but seek guidance before making any purchases.

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Numerous friction material deposits were present at the bottom of the pan; however, the mechanic who replaced my ATF and filter reported that the interior of the gearbox appeared pretty clean.

The ATF level is accurate and has been verified. The mechanic who conducted the most recent inspection of the vehicle informed me that there is certainly an issue with the valve body, and it is quite probable that there is also deterioration in the clutch packs. This remains a possibility, as the vehicle has not undergone live data diagnostics; nonetheless, based on the symptoms, multiple individuals have indicated that repairing this gearbox may not be economically viable.

The gearbox exhibited this issue prior to the fluid change. I utilised authentic Mercedes ATF and added a new genuine Mercedes connector plug. Transmission fluid was present within the previous plug. The gearbox pan utilised non-OEM bolts, and the drain bolt was stripped, indicating that an inexperienced individual had previously serviced the gearbox before my acquisition of the vehicle. I have possessed the vehicle for around one year.