MidnightMarauder

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=intake+manifold&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xdf7fac6888f1c2093acc59f6fac4d662&subId2=15

You can remove the intake manifold without releasing any pressure on the power steering pump. In order to remove the intake manifold, I was unable to locate any videos or descriptions of the process. So, aside from the one bolt I failed to see, the issue was a single renegade knot that was difficult to reach and was blocking its escape. I hope it returns without a hitch.

Apologies, I made a mistake. Yes, nine bolts are there. WIS's diagram is a bit perplexing since it only shows eight points, but it does remind me of the one I missed (at the front), but it doesn't show the problematic one by the oil filter housing. After removing the additional bolt, the manifold became loose but remained stubbornly stuck; hence, I decided to go back to steps 8 and 9 in the hopes that the power steering pump would release its grip. However, I then encountered a Catch-22 scenario. It was easy to remove the V belt and the front two bolts that held the pump in place, however the third bolt in the back is inaccessible due to the intake manifold! Did anyone else do this, and if so, how?

It appears that I may have overlooked one bolt as Mercedes's EPC for my VIN indicates that there are nine, however WIS only shows eight. Tomorrow I have something else to look into.

To finish replacing the oil filter housing and oil cooler, I have been attempting to remove the intake manifold this morning. I just got WIS, so I'm following the MB process and watching a tonne of videos to help me out. I have successfully removed all eight bolts, with the exception of one that is inaccessible since it is too close to the oil filter housing. The numerous hoses and pipes have also been unplugged, in addition to all five electricity connections. Various hoses and wiring harnesses are not clipped, etc. At the engine's back, the manifold is loose and moves smoothly, but up front, somewhere behind the power steering pump, it's stuck and won't come out! Am I missing anything? Has anybody else experienced this problem? Steps 8 and 9 below seem to be where the problem lies, therefore I'm crossing my fingers: an) Take the poly-V belt off Should the need arise (AR13.20-P-0001CW) 9) Remove the bolts from the power steering pump and set it aside with the cables attached. In case it's needed (AR46.30-P-0500EVO) Knowing when it's needed would be great! Maybe that matters because mys has the 213 SPEED-SENSITIVE POWER STEERING/VARIO STEERING option. When round 2 begins, I will consider this possibility. Helpful suggestions are welcome.

I wanted to get things checked out a bit sooner, so I called Lee. It appears that he's booked out until August. Do you have any other recommendations? It seems more probable that this type of work would be taken on by someone who is completely focused on automotive electrics and has the time and energy to identify and repair any problems. I'll simply wait till August and send it to Lee if the worst comes to worst.

I am hoping that the knowledgeable members of this community can help me with some electrical troubles I've been experiencing. 1. The pop-up headlights would only function sometimes; I replaced the control relay (61351932413BMW) believing it would be the culprit, but the problem persisted. There are a few possible suspects: the Light Control Module (LKM), which is not available locally and should be repaired as soon as possible; alternatively, it might be the engine on the passenger side. 2. Sunroof — the motor isn't turning, can it be fixed? If not, I'll have to get a new one. 3. The seat tilt switch is malfunctioning; it is once again believed that the motor is the problem. Do you know of any historic automobile electricians in the Surrey/SW London region that might possibly fix my vehicle? Anyone with the time to come out and inspect the problem and find a solution would be preferable, but it may be a distant electrician or a garage. Unfortunately, I am too busy with job and my kids to tackle it on my own. Thank you ahead of time!

There is a corrosion warranty on your vehicle. The distance is endless, but it's measured in years only; I've forgotten the name.

I would follow your lead.

Best wishes.

Hello, I appreciate that. An excellent resource. The next thing I need to know is whether or not the 12 mm claimed increase to my ride height is something I can live with. Also, I will have a 3.5% accuracy rate in my speedo. That means I'm actually going 28.9 miles per hour, even though the speedometer indicates 30. Since it's simply a little adjustment, do you think it will cause any issues? What a relief you were to me.

Salutations everyone, I own a 19-inch wheeled E400 Cabriolet. The journey is horrible 😬. 235/35/R19 tires are mounted up front. I would like to enhance the tire's profile. Would the switch to 235/40/R19 be acceptable? I have 255/30/R19 on the back tire. Are 255/35/R19 wheels an option? Alright, according to my tyre guy. He also suggested checking the forum. I recently had these wheels recut, so I'd rather not switch to 18-inch alloys. Helpful suggestions are welcome. I want to thank everyone.

Diesel engines produce more torque, while petrol engines are slightly more thirsty. When diesel engines are warmed up and going on extended cruises, they become more efficient. Modern turbocharged petrol, on the other hand, isn't terrible for daily use and has far more torque than older NA petrol. With the exception of daily caravan pulling, the B58 torque should be more than enough for most applications. In my opinion, driving a diesel with a high mileage is not going to be easy. They are fantastic if you return them after three years of leasing. Good luck

Doesn't the B58 come in a petrol variant as well?

That's it, indeed. That sounds more like a crushing sound to me, although the hard drive analogy is true.