MidnightMarauder

After not having attended a workshop in over 30 years, I really don't know... Trained part switcher monkeys, are not really replacements for mechanics are they? what a downer

If there is a problem, could you please replace the calliper pots and seal? It is reasonable to assume that the calliper slides can also be swapped out. It is more common to purchase aftermarket discs and disc pads instead of OEM ones. Why isn't repair an option instead of the current assumption that replacement is the only option? Could you please clarify the exact nature of the problem? Are the calliper assembly OEM part numbers available?

Were the side pressures, both low and high, checked? Modern compressors do not have a magnetic clutch because they modulate internally and run continuously. Reading the pressures is the only way to know how a compressor is operating. Since it is entirely module driven, I highly doubt that there is a traditional relay found in older vehicles. Can we rule out a mix flap problem by checking the heating control's hot-to-cold functionality?

Did you consult a Mercedes-Benz dealership? It appears to be the most probable spot 👌

Noting the make, model, year, etc. of the vehicle might be helpful. Has it been searched using the part number or has a Mercedes dealer been contacted?

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=intake+manifold&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xdf7fac6888f1c2093acc59f6fac4d662&subId2=15

You can remove the intake manifold without releasing any pressure on the power steering pump. In order to remove the intake manifold, I was unable to locate any videos or descriptions of the process. So, aside from the one bolt I failed to see, the issue was a single renegade knot that was difficult to reach and was blocking its escape. I hope it returns without a hitch.

Apologies, I made a mistake. Yes, nine bolts are there. WIS's diagram is a bit perplexing since it only shows eight points, but it does remind me of the one I missed (at the front), but it doesn't show the problematic one by the oil filter housing. After removing the additional bolt, the manifold became loose but remained stubbornly stuck; hence, I decided to go back to steps 8 and 9 in the hopes that the power steering pump would release its grip. However, I then encountered a Catch-22 scenario. It was easy to remove the V belt and the front two bolts that held the pump in place, however the third bolt in the back is inaccessible due to the intake manifold! Did anyone else do this, and if so, how?

It appears that I may have overlooked one bolt as Mercedes's EPC for my VIN indicates that there are nine, however WIS only shows eight. Tomorrow I have something else to look into.

To finish replacing the oil filter housing and oil cooler, I have been attempting to remove the intake manifold this morning. I just got WIS, so I'm following the MB process and watching a tonne of videos to help me out. I have successfully removed all eight bolts, with the exception of one that is inaccessible since it is too close to the oil filter housing. The numerous hoses and pipes have also been unplugged, in addition to all five electricity connections. Various hoses and wiring harnesses are not clipped, etc. At the engine's back, the manifold is loose and moves smoothly, but up front, somewhere behind the power steering pump, it's stuck and won't come out! Am I missing anything? Has anybody else experienced this problem? Steps 8 and 9 below seem to be where the problem lies, therefore I'm crossing my fingers: an) Take the poly-V belt off Should the need arise (AR13.20-P-0001CW) 9) Remove the bolts from the power steering pump and set it aside with the cables attached. In case it's needed (AR46.30-P-0500EVO) Knowing when it's needed would be great! Maybe that matters because mys has the 213 SPEED-SENSITIVE POWER STEERING/VARIO STEERING option. When round 2 begins, I will consider this possibility. Helpful suggestions are welcome.

I wanted to get things checked out a bit sooner, so I called Lee. It appears that he's booked out until August. Do you have any other recommendations? It seems more probable that this type of work would be taken on by someone who is completely focused on automotive electrics and has the time and energy to identify and repair any problems. I'll simply wait till August and send it to Lee if the worst comes to worst.

I am hoping that the knowledgeable members of this community can help me with some electrical troubles I've been experiencing. 1. The pop-up headlights would only function sometimes; I replaced the control relay (61351932413BMW) believing it would be the culprit, but the problem persisted. There are a few possible suspects: the Light Control Module (LKM), which is not available locally and should be repaired as soon as possible; alternatively, it might be the engine on the passenger side. 2. Sunroof — the motor isn't turning, can it be fixed? If not, I'll have to get a new one. 3. The seat tilt switch is malfunctioning; it is once again believed that the motor is the problem. Do you know of any historic automobile electricians in the Surrey/SW London region that might possibly fix my vehicle? Anyone with the time to come out and inspect the problem and find a solution would be preferable, but it may be a distant electrician or a garage. Unfortunately, I am too busy with job and my kids to tackle it on my own. Thank you ahead of time!

There is a corrosion warranty on your vehicle. The distance is endless, but it's measured in years only; I've forgotten the name.

I would follow your lead.

Best wishes.