WhisperingWillow

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Thank you, I anticipate acquiring further knowledge.

Certainly a two plus two, accompanied by a small boot. The rear seats are primarily intended for the accommodation of luggage. I anticipate the cleaning process, as I believe it enhances one's appreciation for the intricacies and design. Currently, I take pleasure in observing carbon fibre each time I open the door or trunk.

Thank you, these vehicles are truly exceptional. I eagerly anticipate venturing out so that others may relish it as well. Fewer than 2000 are currently on the roads in the UK, making them an uncommon sight.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

Greetings, I have returned with a 2015 BMW i8 purchase. I have previously owned the 3, 5, X3, and X5 models. This will mark my twelfth BMW. It serves as a secondary vehicle for leisure days, vacations and occasionally for school transportation.

That's great, thanks. I will check for defects. He had intended to sell the automobile, but plans fell through, so it sat in a field for a year. I drove her home (250 miles) without any problems, except for the brakes binding (which are now solid, but that's another story). However, when I started her up a few weeks later, a mouse came out from under the windscreen and between the bonnet, wiped his whiskers and then vanished. that's why I'm concerned about rodents. Are the nearside and offside headlights fused independently, or do they get different feeds from the FRM?

Don't you think the parking lights are like little angels' eyes? front and rear, I would anticipate them. This particular headlamp is exclusive to the front side. Please, someone, tell me how to find the source of the issue. To begin, I was going to remove the fuse. I believe it's fuse no. 9, but the board doesn't have any numbers, so a diagram would be helpful. It appears that there is a short somewhere, and it seems to be affecting only the nearside headlight. This means that it has passed the point where the power is divided between the offside and nearside headlights, which is normally after the switch in the cabin. However, it is clearly avoiding this switch in some way. thought-provoking issue.

I may have a rodent problem because I live in the country. I removed the earth terminal from the battery since I couldn't figure out which fuse was for the headlights, but I was intending to remove it as part of the diagnostic procedure. I can't believe it. Aside from the nearside headlight, everything else is turned off.

In case anyone was wondering, the garage has indeed identified the oil cooler as the source of the problem. Grainy sand filled the space within the water jacket and all the pipes that had been inserted into it when we removed it. Plenty, not just a little. The result is that the cooler has burst due to the buildup of pressure. From what I can see, it has nothing to do with the engine and is neither magnetic nor metallic. I am familiar with the car's history up to the last year's 30,000 miles, during which time it has had the oil changed and a serpentine belt installed, but other than that, it has been completely unaltered. Nothing has been done with the coolant system. Is there anybody who can guess what it could be? Although it's strange that it went 30,000 miles before exhibiting difficulties, one reasonable hypothesis is that a radweld similar to Bars Leak may have been added (too many times) prior to my ownership. My only other theory is that someone or something was deliberately added to the coolant system, but nobody other than people I trust has been near the vehicle. Is anyone else thinking about possible other explanations? I am grateful.

Wow, that's dark! I've never heard of that before, but I can see how it may be useful. Surprising things might happen at any time!

Since I checked the level two weeks ago and added more, I can say with certainty that the coolant is not old. But it's good to know. We'll make sure it's not gearbox oil; if that doesn't work, we'll go on to the oil cooler and cross our fingers. In any case, we need to get out of here soon. I am grateful.

I understand. Now we know the combustion chambers are fine thanks to the compression test the garage ran, but they didn't mention anything about the oil-water leak or the damaged block or head. Is there a way to examine the water jacket for leaks now that it's mostly disassembled? It could be done by reattaching the water line to the block and then testing the pressure, but then water would leak out of the oil cooler, making it even more difficult to pinpoint the exact location of the leak. In the event that the oil cooler comes up and checks out, the only method to determine is by looking at the head gasket.

It's helpful to know that. Curiously, no emulsion is visible. What I mean when I say the expansion tank is full of oil is that it is filled with thick, black stuff that looks like motor oil. There is absolutely no creamy emulsion. This is the main reason why I believe it happened just a little distance before the "check coolant" alert appeared during startup. So far, I've come to the conclusion that the expansion tank is the uppermost section, and that the oil cooler "skimmed off" the oil that floated to the top when it split. We only do short journeys, therefore the engine got switched off. Because of this, the rivers are rather empty. This is just my current best guess, however it could be completely wrong.

The repair shop did claim to have performed a compression test, which confirmed that the gasket around the engine's cylinder head was in good working order. Given the presence of oil in the coolant, I suspect a leak. Given the current state of the system, I am unsure if it can maintain pressure. Its also pretty much disassembled making further testing hard. Among the things I find hard to believe is the possibility that the oil is gearbox oil. Its recent oil change gives it a clean, healthy appearance, and its jet black color belies its cleanliness. The gearbox oil, as far as I can tell, is neither black nor green nor greenish-blue. The lack of a dipstick is explained as being due to the unit being "sealed for life," which prevents us from knowing the color of the gearbox oil. But there is a blanked-off ATF dipstick tube that is located to the left of the engine oil. According to my preferred artificial intelligence system (Pi), there is a genuine ATF dipstick available (part number 722589012100). However, when I contacted Mercedes dealers, they declined to sell it to me since it is classified as a "workshop tool." Fortunately, I was able to find it online. Has anyone used an ATF dipstick on an OM651 / 722.6 before? I'll report back to you on the effectiveness of the Febi Bilstein part match that I ordered. In that case, I'll be able to verify the color of the gearbox oil and determine if it's polluted. Are you in agreement? Is the gearbox actually made of jet black, virgin oil? My guess is no. To review, currently: - The oil color makes me doubt that it's gearbox oil; thus, it isn't gearbox oil cooler. The compression test confirmed that the head gasket surrounding the combustion chambers was fine, but a leak in the gasket connecting the oil and water channels could be the culprit. There may have been a disastrous crack in the block or the skull. On the other hand, the oil cooler might be the culprit. Given the amount of oil in the coolant, it's strange that any nearby waterways would be spared and clean, but the garage insisted that this wasn't the case because the surrounding waterways weren't polluted. Is it because the car hasn't clogged up any waterways yet, or is it because it just got fresh oil and filter two weeks ago, during which there was clearly no oil in the coolant? At this point, I must decide whether or not to instruct the garage to proceed with reaching the oil cooler. If it's not the oil cooler or gearbox oil cooler, then taking the cylinder head off for diagnosis is necessary for everything else, right? Upon closer inspection, however, it becomes clear that in order to reach the head gasket, all of the components necessary for the oil cooler must be removed. I just need to know if the oil in the expansion tank is for the transmission or the engine before I can call the garage. Am I missing something? Much obliged.