allmightyASTON

I believe he refers to converting the exhaust from a single pipe with dual tips to dual pipes, one at each end of the vehicle, rather than merely replacing the tailpipes.

I possess an F10 525d with a conventional exhaust and wish to modify it to the 535d type, including one exhaust tip on each end. There is an exhaust facility in the Wolverhampton/Walsall area that can either cut or replace the rear diffuser. I was quoted approximately £450, as I recall.

They merely detached a sensor and a bracket securing the cable harness, without removing the manifold. Appears to be uncomplicated? Utilising the appropriate socket length and extension, etc. It may be possible to accomplish this without removing anything except for the hose and the valve. However, the visibility is suboptimal, and you will likely need to do a laborious process initially, subsequently determining the appropriate socket, ratchet, and extension combination to remove it without disassembling more components, hence facilitating a more efficient method for future attempts.

To access the 2.5 L engine in this vehicle, it is necessary to remove the intake manifold. Is this task challenging for this vehicle? Utilise a 19 mm deep socket to remove it. It may be feasible to detach it using unconventional tools, but I am uncertain. The 2.4 L engine of this vehicle, likely the 2AZ-FE or a comparable model, is readily accessible. I believe you possess the 2.5 L. Is the removal of the intake manifold on the 2.5 L challenging?

Does your 2010 model have the 2.5 L or the 2.4 L four-cylinder engine?

Activate Save Mode. This compels the engine to operate and reach optimal temperature. The stop/start function will not engage during charging.

I consistently utilise a puck with the trolley jack to avert slippage; once positioned on the ground beside the vehicle, the jacking points become evident, characterised by a double thickness of metal and a locating dimple.

I disposed of mine more rapidly by purchasing a set of new wheels that she favoured, amusingly.

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Thank you, Flexfer. I had contemplated replacing both calipers, since quality options are reasonably priced. I intend to go with the scheduled fluid change on Thursday, and if the issue persists, I will examine your recommendation to replace them, given their affordability. Thank you, everyone; I appreciate it.

Indeed, a commendable idea. My first assumption was another clean sheet; I intended to include in the original article that the shoes are complimentary. I verified this when I replaced the rear discs and drums. I do not using the handbrake either.

Greetings I replaced the rear pads and discs due to their diminished condition and saw that one side of the pads was worn down to the metal while the other side was around half worn. I found this peculiar but attributed it to the possibility that the previous owner had only replaced one side. The vehicle has consistently shown a little intermittent pull to the left, occurring often but not consistently, which I suspect may be attributed to the front brakes. I am experiencing a problem where, after driving for at least 15 minutes and after stopping, I detect a burning odor emanating from one of the rear brakes, which alternates between the nearside and offside during different occurrences. Upon replacing the rear pads and discs, the brake pistons retracted without difficulty, and I lubricated the sliders. I verified the brakes by depressing the pedal, resulting in the wheels becoming immobilized; upon releasing the pedal, the wheels spun freely, indicating no binding issues. I am rather displeased with the situation. I have scheduled a comprehensive brake fluid replacement to see whether it would provide an improvement, but I am contemplating the potential failure of the servo or ABS as possibilities. Is there a brake compensator available? Could this be the cause of this? I do not believe it is relevant, but I will say that I have permanently disabled the TOD system and installed a switch to activate it as necessary. Do you have any suggestions on its nature? I appreciate your assistance in advance.

Update - I removed the TC fuse, and the vehicle operated flawlessly, confirming it was really a TC problem. I replaced the fluid (about 450ml) and executed the calibration using ISTA+, resulting in the vehicle returning to a near-normal state. I shall do another fluid change in about one week, since the fluid that was expelled was very dark and likely original from the manufacturer.

All tires are uniform and brand new. I have consistently changed them in sets of four, since I am aware that xDrive may be somewhat particular. The issue has arisen unexpectedly, since everything was functioning well just a few days before. The engine operates smoothly in Neutral and functions optimally overall, mostly due to your work on the chains; thus, I suspect an issue with the gearbox or torque converter. It is disappointing because it does not generate a diagnostic code.