coolguy

I found it quite enjoyable. Ample interior space. Acquire 4 Spec and you possess all the equipment.

The hybrid Niro does not require charging. Only a Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) operates in this manner, particularly when not charged at home. Consequently, I would refrain from acquiring a PHEV. This is the outcome I derived from my HEV.

Would you not simply procure petrol at that point? You are correct; you are assuming certain disadvantages (complexity) without reaping the advantages (savings and environmental benefits). I am unable to provide answers to your other enquiries.

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The hybrid system includes an electric heater, an auxiliary water pump, and a changeover valve to alternate between engine coolant and the electric heater. Thus, it is not as straightforward in a forum post. I would first scan it to determine whether it provides any guidance.

There are excessively several factors, and since you are not present to physically assess and eliminate them, the recommendation is to advise individuals to seek an independent shop if they do not wish to utilise the dealer. Initial fundamental inquiry: Mileage on the odometer? What was the final transmission service ...miles? What was the mileage of the most recent brake service, and what exactly did it entail? Has the car lately been involved in any collision that resulted in undercarriage impact? If so, please specify the details. Illustration of a vehicle traversing a concrete tyre barrier in a parking lot. You are requesting advice without having inspected various components of the Mazda. The fundamental enquiries pertain to the timing of the most recent brake service and the specifics of that service. What is the mileage on the odometer? What was the most recent servicing performed on the clutch and/or gearbox? Was the ECU examined to confirm the absence of error codes? Were the mounts thoroughly inspected and found to be intact and not worn out? Were the remaining drivetrain components examined for wear or damage? Was the gear lever inspected for adequate shifting functionality without any complications? This is accomplished by detaching it from the gearbox. Are all the shift bushings in proper condition? Was the level of the gearbox fluid assessed? I apologise, but I am unable to assist you as you are seeking speculative advice, and you are not in a position to verify these straightforward enquiries through basic service experience checks.

You are discussing two entirely distinct aspects of the Mazda. My foremost proposal, given your inability to physically inspect the Mazda, is to suggest that they take it to a repair facility. Immediately address any suspected brake issues.

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I believe it is time to proceed with my plan, which has been in development for several years. I aimed to minimise risks and avoid incurring debts while establishing it. I now need to purchase one or two two-post ramps; I have already acquired most of the necessary equipment, with significant expenses incurred for an Autel device and other diagnostic tools, including a scope. Additionally, I am considering constructing a DPF cat cleaner that can wash filters without necessitating their complete removal from vehicles, particularly for all Generation 3 cars, which require subframe disassembly. The remaining tasks can be accomplished with a day’s work on the floor, and cleaning the filters in situ will save vehicle owners approximately three hours. There remains the option for complete removal and remapping as well. I already work seven days a week, typically 10 to 12 hours on weekdays and 8 hours on Saturday and Sunday.

In January, I executed a ten-year lease for my own mini specialist, to be named Mini Mike's Mini Specialist. Last week, I submitted my resignation at work, which was met with disapproval; however, I maintained a cordial demeanour and was offered incentives to remain. Nonetheless, I prefer to dedicate myself to working seventy hours a week for my own venture.

I utilise Yeo and Smith's machine shop in Plymouth, where an 81-year-old craftsman expertly grinds cranks. His ingenuity has greatly benefited me over the years. I also procure Kings bearings, which he sources in the appropriate sizes, along with rings. I utilise FAI and head bolts. FAI head gasket and FAI timing chain complete kit, including the oil pump chain kit, are excellent quality at reasonable prices. I utilise either Febi, FAI, or genuine oil pumps. Best of luck, as the initial attempt is usually challenging.

The oil pressure light is unrelated to those codes, in my opinion. It is necessary to utilise a wet oil pressure gauge to ascertain the real-time pressure. It is common for an engine to exhibit oil pressure when cold, but as it warms up, the pressure may drop to zero, triggering the warning light. Likely causes include significant wear in the cylinder head where the camshafts are located, any grooves indicating irreparable damage, and potential crankshaft damage. To assess this, remove the sump and inspect the bottom surface; any grey colouration suggests that the crankshaft is compromised.

Years ago, I discovered a method on this site for changing the rear brakes, which always results in the parking brake being set to approximately three clicks. It was excessively elevated. The rear wheels do not engage the parking brake whatsoever. Continuously modify the star wheel adjuster within the drum till the rear wheel, with the shoes only in contact with the drum, rotates around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 revolutions before coming to a halt. At this juncture, the parking brake typically requires approximately three clicks for optimal functionality, and I have never needed to modify it, provided the rear brake shoes are well maintained. Theoretically, I could neglect the parking brake setting, but I have never encountered a problem. Three clicks are acceptable; however, if six to nine clicks are effective, that is also satisfactory to me. I consistently utilise the parking brake.

Did you also modify the cable at the lever end, beneath the centre console?