coolguy

There are excessively several factors, and since you are not present to physically assess and eliminate them, the recommendation is to advise individuals to seek an independent shop if they do not wish to utilise the dealer. Initial fundamental inquiry: Mileage on the odometer? What was the final transmission service ...miles? What was the mileage of the most recent brake service, and what exactly did it entail? Has the car lately been involved in any collision that resulted in undercarriage impact? If so, please specify the details. Illustration of a vehicle traversing a concrete tyre barrier in a parking lot. You are requesting advice without having inspected various components of the Mazda. The fundamental enquiries pertain to the timing of the most recent brake service and the specifics of that service. What is the mileage on the odometer? What was the most recent servicing performed on the clutch and/or gearbox? Was the ECU examined to confirm the absence of error codes? Were the mounts thoroughly inspected and found to be intact and not worn out? Were the remaining drivetrain components examined for wear or damage? Was the gear lever inspected for adequate shifting functionality without any complications? This is accomplished by detaching it from the gearbox. Are all the shift bushings in proper condition? Was the level of the gearbox fluid assessed? I apologise, but I am unable to assist you as you are seeking speculative advice, and you are not in a position to verify these straightforward enquiries through basic service experience checks.

You are discussing two entirely distinct aspects of the Mazda. My foremost proposal, given your inability to physically inspect the Mazda, is to suggest that they take it to a repair facility. Immediately address any suspected brake issues.

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I believe it is time to proceed with my plan, which has been in development for several years. I aimed to minimise risks and avoid incurring debts while establishing it. I now need to purchase one or two two-post ramps; I have already acquired most of the necessary equipment, with significant expenses incurred for an Autel device and other diagnostic tools, including a scope. Additionally, I am considering constructing a DPF cat cleaner that can wash filters without necessitating their complete removal from vehicles, particularly for all Generation 3 cars, which require subframe disassembly. The remaining tasks can be accomplished with a day’s work on the floor, and cleaning the filters in situ will save vehicle owners approximately three hours. There remains the option for complete removal and remapping as well. I already work seven days a week, typically 10 to 12 hours on weekdays and 8 hours on Saturday and Sunday.

In January, I executed a ten-year lease for my own mini specialist, to be named Mini Mike's Mini Specialist. Last week, I submitted my resignation at work, which was met with disapproval; however, I maintained a cordial demeanour and was offered incentives to remain. Nonetheless, I prefer to dedicate myself to working seventy hours a week for my own venture.

I utilise Yeo and Smith's machine shop in Plymouth, where an 81-year-old craftsman expertly grinds cranks. His ingenuity has greatly benefited me over the years. I also procure Kings bearings, which he sources in the appropriate sizes, along with rings. I utilise FAI and head bolts. FAI head gasket and FAI timing chain complete kit, including the oil pump chain kit, are excellent quality at reasonable prices. I utilise either Febi, FAI, or genuine oil pumps. Best of luck, as the initial attempt is usually challenging.

The oil pressure light is unrelated to those codes, in my opinion. It is necessary to utilise a wet oil pressure gauge to ascertain the real-time pressure. It is common for an engine to exhibit oil pressure when cold, but as it warms up, the pressure may drop to zero, triggering the warning light. Likely causes include significant wear in the cylinder head where the camshafts are located, any grooves indicating irreparable damage, and potential crankshaft damage. To assess this, remove the sump and inspect the bottom surface; any grey colouration suggests that the crankshaft is compromised.

Years ago, I discovered a method on this site for changing the rear brakes, which always results in the parking brake being set to approximately three clicks. It was excessively elevated. The rear wheels do not engage the parking brake whatsoever. Continuously modify the star wheel adjuster within the drum till the rear wheel, with the shoes only in contact with the drum, rotates around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 revolutions before coming to a halt. At this juncture, the parking brake typically requires approximately three clicks for optimal functionality, and I have never needed to modify it, provided the rear brake shoes are well maintained. Theoretically, I could neglect the parking brake setting, but I have never encountered a problem. Three clicks are acceptable; however, if six to nine clicks are effective, that is also satisfactory to me. I consistently utilise the parking brake.

Did you also modify the cable at the lever end, beneath the centre console?

I believe it must be inserted at an angle. Utilising certain blankets may prove beneficial. Do you possess a roof rack?

Rest assured, the remaining issues are fully accounted for. Erratic gearbox surges, driving aids endangering cyclists and oncoming traffic, excessive tire wear and poor navigation performance. The majority do not lead to the demise of my family. Overall, this vehicle is subpar and incurs significant monthly expenses due to depreciation, since no rational buyer would purchase it until Mazda addresses all existing flaws.

The southeastern issue persists indefinitely. I conducted a thorough search; however, none of the postings indicated that anybody considered the automobile to be really hazardous and erratic, like to the Morris Marina of the 1970s. In my view, without varied dampers and gentler springs, my automobile is perhaps more hazardous than the unfortunate old Marina. Despite thousands of complaints, it seems that Mazda exhibits a lack of concern for the rectification of the vehicle in the recall, a situation that is somewhat commonplace in Britain. Mazda and the automotive media said that they had resolved the suspension issue in the 2023 specifications, coupled with the problems related to the wireless charging, which first motivated the purchase. I cannot see how Mazda deems it acceptable to sell vehicles with several recognised and basic defects. It has become almost inconsequential for me; this weekend, I acquired another BMW to augment my collection. The dealers, comparable to the Mazda dealer network, will greatly irritate me; but, the BMW will certainly not endanger my life or my family's in a severe loss of control at relatively low speeds. It is noteworthy for others in this discussion that the trade-in value was much lower than the purchase price of the vehicle. It is possible that purchasers of pre-owned Mazdas possess knowledge that we lack. I am still awaiting developments on my CX60 and will continue to use it as a backup vehicle at a reduced speed.

Yesterday, while navigating a bend at a furious pace, my Mazda CX60's rear wheels almost departed off the roadway, resulting in a brief and alarming moment of potential loss of control. In my vicinity, several road portions exhibit significant depressions and abrupt elevations resulting from subsidence and inadequate maintenance. While driving my Mazda at speeds below the limit on some routes, the rear wheels often almost lose contact with the surface, causing items in the trunk to go airborne. The front wheels stay on the pavement. my occurrence is unique to my automobile, since it has not happened in any other vehicle I own or have previously had. It is rather unsettling and quite frightening. My judgement is that the rear dampers lack sufficient stiffness, and/or the spring rates are excessive for the vehicle's weight. The outcome is a vehicle that performs inferiorly to a 1960 transit van, which is regrettable considering Mazda's attempt to compete with the BMW X3. My previous X3 never exhibited this behaviour. Has anybody replaced the rear dampers on their CX-60, and what kind of dampers have you installed? The standard options are clearly inadequate for the vehicle's weight, considering the batteries and other components. This is a prevalent issue associated with the recent influx of heavier vehicles resulting from batteries. This was a prevalent grievance among several individuals over the previous CX-60 models, and I was under the impression that Mazda rectified this issue prior to my acquisition of the new vehicle in June 2024. Mazda CX-60 PHEV with 25,000 kilometres driven.

My dealer presented me with an option between the Pirelli Scorpions and the Michelins. Both options were evaluated for my CX90; I opted for the Pirelli tires. The Mazda North Bay store suggested these options as appropriate OEM replacement tires, and Mazda Canada financed the purchase due to the rapid deterioration of the Falken OEM tires. I am uncertain as to why your dealer is providing contradictory information on the tires. I reside in Northern Ontario and likely see comparable winter conditions as yours. I am now quite satisfied with the Pirelli tires.