WolfieBase

Where can I get battery servicing, charging, or conditioning in Aberdeen?

Thank you for your reply.

I am operating a Mercedes A200, and the screen recently displayed "Stop Vehicle, Leave Engine Running." The battery voltage is below expectations due to insufficient information. Sent to a friend's recommended workshop to measure the battery voltage, which registered at 12.45V. Has anybody encountered this previously? Uncertain if the issue is to the battery or the alternator. Will the problem code disappear after replacing the battery? Please recommend workshops for the completed requirements as well. I appreciate your assistance in advance.

My perspective differs little. I believe that a hundred percent capacity is sometimes a historical need for LFP batteries at now. Based on my observations of several presentations on EV batteries, it is advisable to maintain a number below 75% for the sake of lifespan. I typically charge to 70% most of the time, and when I want a wider range, I charge to 100%. This seems to extend the battery's longevity, particularly after its use in the electric car. Research indicates that consistently charging to 100% may have adverse long-term consequences on the battery; nevertheless, the vehicle is likely to succumb to rust before these battery concerns arise.

There are two options for linking your phone to the GPS system. First, activate tethering on your phone and connect the vehicle to the phone's hotspot. The vehicle will thereafter use the phone's data to provide real-time services, such as traffic updates and local fuel pricing. Utilising a USB connection enables access to Android Auto or Apple CarPlay, along with its associated functionalities, like mapping and navigation. Many members like using Android Auto or Apple CarPlay for navigation and music streaming.

Paint may darken. Modern vehicles possess a clear coat layer over the colour coat, which is susceptible to fading. This clear coat may yellow with time, particularly on lighter-colored vehicles, resulting in a darker appearance of the entire paint job.

I utilise 0W-20 Mobil 1 totally synthetic oil and a Fram filter. The total cost for both items is $30 plus VAT. The CX-30 facilitates oil changes, providing considerable peace of mind when performed independently. Our vehicle is a 2021 model equipped with a non-turbo 2.5L engine, which may necessitate a different viscosity than that required by the turbo variants. Despite widespread criticism of Fram oil filters, I have utilised them for over 40 years without encountering any problems. I replace my oil more frequently than the average individual, hence I do not require a 20,000-mile filter. I change my oil well before reaching 5,000 miles, typically in my own driveway. The caution over the "quick change" locations is justified, however. Some are acceptable, while others may be precarious; the "upselling" can be characterised as predatory.

Moreover, the fuel efficiency significantly deteriorates in scenarios when the battery is unnecessarily utilised; this is not a viable alternative.

Thank you for the response. Is your car exhibiting the same behaviour? For me, it is simply a lack of common logic that both electric and petrol power operate simultaneously in sport mode with minimal torque/power utilisation. It appears that when driving above 100 miles, your battery will be depleted, regardless of efforts to conserve it for later use. If you desire a synergistic power of two powertrains, it will not be available. What occurred to me recently was unpleasant. Summary of modes and their functionality based on my experience. "Normal" mode attempts to utilise electric power at all times, rendering it nearly equivalent to "EV" mode. Operates effectively for a brief duration, then exhibits nonsensical behaviour, such as deactivating the internal combustion engine for five seconds at 60 MPH when the accelerator is not engaged. The "Sport" mode consumes power continuously and depletes the battery within 100 miles, but the miles per gallon (MPG) improvement is negligible compared to when the battery is completely discharged—yet another questionable innovation. "EV" essentially operates as "Normal," even transitioning to "Normal" when the accelerator is fully depressed. "Offroad" - I have not utilised it, but it may well be more prudent to conserve battery when feasible, as regenerative braking is virtually unfeasible while slow off-road driving.

Greetings everyone, I recently embarked on a road trip in my PHEV CX60. All A and B roads in Wales, UK. I was not in a hurry, so I utilised "Boost," which activated the battery power approximately twice throughout a 100-mile journey. The remainder involved adhering to the prevailing circumstances. I have always believed that with prudent accelerator usage, the battery remains inactive, merely awaiting significant acceleration. However, during the journey, the battery depleted from 80% to nearly 0%. Is this typical, or is there a potential "leak" present? As previously said, operated in "Sport" mode throughout that duration. At that time, my average fuel usage was 35 MPG, which I find acceptable.

I had not considered this! How have others managed the inability to use their 'car CD collection' when acquiring a new vehicle? Thank you.

Have you tested this on the six-cylinder engine? I found it really difficult to transport even after everything was disassembled. It evidently varies every vehicle; nevertheless, after 11-12 years, it is probable that the manifold need a decoke at a minimum. The elbow from the throttle body was likely somewhat undersized, and the engine now exhibits a notably responsive performance, particularly in the midrange where the turbocharger is operating vigorously. We also discovered detached swirl flaps, which, if dislodged, may enter the intake ports or cause more severe issues. BMW is not the only manufacturer using plastic coolant pipes; nonetheless, while examining this particular component, I am astonished by their durability. An aluminium component would certainly last throughout the vehicle's lifespan; the decision ultimately hinges on cost. In retrospect, Volkswagen's transition around 35 years ago prompts the question, "Was that a prudent choice?" I propose replacing the pipe if your automobile is Exceeding ten years in age may lead to possible harm from overheating; it is advisable to clean the manifold and inspect the flaps concurrently.

Thank you. In the past, five hours sufficed to replace a cylinder head on a six-cylinder Jaguar. Alternatively, remove an engine off a Volvo and disassemble it entirely!

There is nothing novel here. The primary coolant pipe on my son's F30 330D ruptured, necessitating a week's wait for service at the local independent garage. I chose to do the task for him, as a retired engineer with 30 years of experience in vehicle maintenance prior to transitioning to a desk position, subsequently receiving training in electric cars before concluding that it was sufficient. The removal of the intake manifold is a complex task that I would not advise doing unless you possess proficient hand dexterity and much familiarity with contemporary automobiles. Detach the engine cover Detach the air filter and its housing. Detachment of the battery Detach the wire from the alternator, oil pressure switch, air conditioning compressor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, throttle valve, and swirl flap actuator; furthermore, detach the cable ducting from the manifold. Attempt to relocate the soundproofing from the rear of the engine (which I damaged) and detach the fuel line bracket from the manifold. Remove the bolts securing the EGR intake elbow to the throttle body, inlet manifold, and EGR valve, then detach the elbow while extracting the EGR along with the sensor. Remove the seven bolts securing the manifold (the bulkhead end need a universal joint or equivalent tool). I subsequently detached the wire from the vacuum valve and the ECU located at the base of the manifold. Although it may be advisable to do this, I clipped the vacuum valve and unscrewed the ECU; still, the process is intricate and difficult to reassemble due to limited space for my hands. We replaced the manifold with an aftermarket version; the quality was satisfactory and it fit appropriately. One fastening hole required deeper drilling, the previous one was severely coked, and one or two flaps were loose. Approximately five hours in total, which I believe might be reduced by half in the future. I do not plan to be a next time!

Thank you. I shall contact them via email. My local dealers in Scotland are unable to assist and do not own a component number, but maybe Cotswold does.