DMGRS

Funny this has come up I’ve been looking at a Jaguar F-Pace they’ve got listed on eBay. Done the usual checks company reg, phone call, emails nothing seemed off Still can’t shake the feeling though… sending money before seeing it just doesn’t sit right

I got a replacement sleeve and some Gum Gum because I cut it when removing the DPF. You won't even notice the weld. I suppose nobody will care about a well repaired exhaust system as long as the emissions are acceptable. The DPF's back is where the leak is. Also, I really doubt it's a knockoff. Since it was mostly used for highway travel (as an airport taxi), I assume it is still in fine shape. Even though it's not related to this subject, I'd still like to inspect the exhaust pressure hose.

After doing some reading, I would assume so. Mild steel probably wouldn't make it beneath the vehicle for so long. What happened to galvanised ubolt is also clear to me.

I figured it was time to rinse DPF with Wynn's fluid. It was discovered to have a hole! Check out the picture. It has me wondering whether it may perhaps produce a pressure leak severe enough to fool the computer into thinking the DPF is full. It seems to reason that a larger pressure differential will result in a larger soot calculation, and vice versa; removing part of the pressure will cause the shown difference to be larger. I have 316 electrodes at home, so I'll have to find a nearby welding shop to fix it. Alternatively, I could just buy some 304 tubing and practise on it.

Please wait a moment while I recharge my crystal ball; I will return immediately.

I understand your point, but after working in a number of factories, I've noticed that most products, OEM or not, are made in the same factory, using the same machines, and sometimes even on the same day. I always make sure to get a parts warranty in case something goes wrong. I'm hoping this is the problem, but it's mostly just a test to see how stretched the chain is and how much work I'll have to do. If it's not, I'd rather spend £25 now than hundreds of pounds later to find out the problem is severe.

Yes, but only at around 3000 revs. When I used new oil, it settled, but it comes back when the oil is warm. I'm using the original stock tensioner and would like to upgrade. I have a service appointment in two weeks, so I will get the timing chain done then. I'm doing the tensioner to determine how stretched the chain is. I sought advice because it's hard to find a tensioner with attached dimensions. BMW wants more than £50 and needs to order one, while everyone else offers networking options for £20–£30 and next day.

Where can I find the tensioner that has been upgraded? I own an R57

Yesterday, I watched a video on YT that discussed the link between low tire pressure and early tire deterioration. The driver door label instructs to pump the front and rear tires to 36 psi, however the Toyo tires on my CX-70 have a maximum pressure recommendation of 51 psi. Running a higher pressure reduces the amount of wear and tear on the tire's outer layer, which in turn increases the tire's longevity and fuel efficiency, as demonstrated in the video. Because each tire has a code number that indicates the month and year of manufacturing, the video showed that the tires wear faster when the pressure is lower than what the manufacturer recommends. They recommend getting new tires before the fifth or seventh year on the road since some insurance companies refuse to pay out after an accident involving tires that were supposed to have been replaced by that date. Before you buy tires, find out if they are covered by your insurance (AI suggests 6 years). I tend to agree with the video that inflating them to a pressure greater than 36 psi will make them live longer.

Even with 18-inch wheels and tires, the ride quality won't be limousine quality.

For the next several full tanks, you may try running it on shell v-power diesel. and heated up on the highway for a couple of hours, etc.

These mysterious (if that's even a word) failures in our automobiles' electrical systems are worrisome. The fact that the issue never appears when the vehicle is brought to a KIA shop and the standard response is "No fault found" makes the situation much more terrible. But maybe we shouldn't be too worried when the electronic gremlins in our cars decide to bug us every now and then, given the number of 'fly-by-wire' planes flown by novice pilots daily and the rarity of disasters?

He has undoubtedly conducted thorough research, and they have nearly accurate data. I was somewhat disheartened to be informed near the conclusion of 1990 that Tom Walkinshaw did not wish for me to continue with the race team. I served as Chief Engineer for five years with a team that secured multiple world championships, including two Daytona 24 Hours and two Le Mans titles. He aspired to lead the creation of a road vehicle. Only in retrospect do you recognise the privilege of developing what was then the world's fastest road car. I had only 14 months to transform a few rudimentary prototypes into a vehicle approved for production. I acquired substantial knowledge over that period, and I doubt I will ever receive a superior company vehicle again. Although a professional racing driver established the Nurburgring lap record, I had the opportunity to drive the car home the same day. We consumed brunch in Germany and returned to Banbury shortly after lunch. An authentic, legitimate road vehicle.😁

It is advisable to post that in a different thread.

Aftermarket wheels typically require different bolts; I experienced this with a W211 while transitioning from aftermarket to OEM, resulting in the bolts being too short. Essentially, the opposite of your actions. Visit a wheel or tire establishment; they should possess bolts available for purchase.