MDMH757

The 2015 E350 212 estate has almost 120,000 miles on the odometer. I used to get it serviced at MB as part of my service plan, but when the price of the plans went up a few years ago, I switched to a local indie. They aren't experts in MB, but they've been able to fix most of the things I couldn't handle on my own. The car was serviced and MOTd a few months ago without any problems; however, I had observed that the rear suspension had a tendency to dip when parked for an extended period, so we decided to have someone check it out. I started to notice an issue every once in a while while driving around the same time. While in sixth or seventh gear, it became the most apparent. When you gently press down on the accelerator after coasting for a while, you might feel a little 'kangaroo' effect, similar to what you would experience in a manual gearbox car when you're going too fast for the gear you're in. At the time this problem was discovered, the vehicle was not shifting gears. Took the vehicle in for a suspension checkup; after discovering a leaking air spring, the issue was resolved. In their investigation into the kangaroo problem, they uncovered a gearbox code reading "Internal control fault at the CPU" (P060C-00). They were able to clear the code and then had the vehicle for a few days, during which time they took it for multiple test drives without noticing any problems and the error code never came back. But, I've observed that the problem appears to persist even now. Icarsoft did a scan, and it came up error-free. Additionally, I have reset the gearbox twice, but the problem persists. Not constantly, but generally speaking, the vehicle performs admirably. I could probably handle it if it wasn't going to get worse or if it wasn't an indication of some kind of impending catastrophe, but it's also not like this before and it's not normal. I would greatly appreciate any recommendations that members may have before I return to the independent, with whom I have maintained a cordial relationship throughout the years and with this vehicle in particular. Giving it to the neighbourhood MB dealer is no longer an issue for me. I was never impressed by their service, and after just a few days I would have racked up a bill that was more than the car was worth!

I know, I totally didn't anticipate that!

Actually, I believe I did check out that website. Biting the bullet might be my only option!

Amazon.co.uk : BMW M Sport

That tray isn't going to work with the M Sport, so thank you for bringing it to my attention. After consulting with a Polish firm that insisted on a particular part number—51 75 8 046 617—I learned that the undercarriage of a M Sport and an E88 are different. I stand by my initial post.

Hello everyone. In a nutshell, my undertray was stolen. Can you believe it? Based on my research, it appears that the E88 undertray is extremely rare. My question is, would an E87 be enough for the job, or are the fixing locations totally different? Considering the above, I think the undertray is also involved in cooling the engine and gearbox, so it might not be that simple. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, I had no idea about that. Seems a little pointless to me; when I'm at a crossroads and can only see the road ahead, I wonder if I should even be behind the wheel, haha.

Amazon.co.uk : GR sport

Until this morning, I had no idea that my GR Sport's head-up display could display an orange turn indication. I've had the bike for over a year now. It was completely incorrect, though. Since there was no one following me, I decided to play around by indicating left and trying four different ways, but the HUD always showed the wrong one for each input. Who else has experienced this? Am I required to have HUD indicators? I've never had them before and was wondering if they were necessary. I'll have them checked when my MOT is due.

The video was absolutely "AGG-ravating!"

I wouldn't bother attempting to bypass the steering lock anymore after damaging the key cylinder. Since the steering lock is a mechanical component of the ignition/column assembly on a 2001 Camry, a broken cylinder would cause the wheel to remain locked even though the steering-lock mechanism is still in use. The steering lock is an anti-theft mechanism, so I will not show you how to defeat it. However, there are significantly simpler solutions for your primary objective, which is to move the vehicle a short distance within your own property without a key: Set up wheel skates or dollies beneath the front wheels. Since the 2001 Camry has front-wheel drive, shifting into neutral and then positioning the front tires on suitable automotive dollies enables you to move it without steering. Use four wheel dollies—one under each tire—to free the rear wheels that have been sitting for six years. A tow truck service that has a flatbed or self-loading wheel-lift can move it in a matter of minutes without needing a key. Additionally, a mobile automotive locksmith can evaluate the broken ignition; however, they will typically require proof of authorisation to work on the vehicle, as it is owned by someone else. Instead of sloppy, inexpensive furniture dollies, I would use rated hydraulic wheel dollies for a brief move across the yard or driveway. To level the vehicle, you simply lift it off its wheels using jacks, lower it onto the dolly, shift into neutral, let go of the parking brake, and roll it. Use wheel chocks to maintain a level surface and steady the vehicle until you are ready to move it. Additionally, put the screwdriver out of its ignition mode. Changing the steering column becomes a relatively easy locksmith or ignition cylinder job if the lock housing gets damaged.

It should be possible to come to a complete stop from a speed of 35 km/h in 9 meters with a good set of brake pads, such as the "yellow stuff" pads. Just wanted to check if anyone knows if the Defender rotors and callipers will work with the RRC diff? I have the modified brake pipe.

You can't say for sure unless you give it a go, I suppose. But in Australia, if the registration has been modified or is more than 12 months old, a braking test is usually required to re-register the vehicle. Half of the RRCs he has seen failed the braking test with the factory brakes, according to the assessment guy I spoke with. As a result, they had to get upgraded brakes in order to get the MOT, or whatever you call it.

Many people have complained about the RRC brakes, and I've read that many people are restoring an 88 RRC. A video of a Defender to Disko 1 front brake calliper swap just surfaced online. The sole noticeable distinction was the transition from a solid brake line to flexible lines, which could be accomplished by replacing the old line or bending it to fit.Because of this, the ventilated discs could be utilised. If my understanding is correct, the Disko 1 and RRC share the same differential housing. So, shouldn't it be possible to use the Defender callipers and rotors on the RRC? Instead of shelling out $2200 for an aftermarket kit that serves the same purpose. Also, which pads would be ideal to use if this were feasible? The "Green stuff" pads were suggested by most RRC owners, so I used them on the back. Many thanks to everyone

You are merely speculating recklessly. It is probable that the issue pertains to a specific component, potentially a sway bar end link; however, without conducting a thorough examination or enlisting professional assistance, indiscriminately purchasing parts in an attempt to make an educated guess is imprudent.