heralder

I do not own one, but, there is a fold-down guard available.

Highly helpful, thank you. As a very vigilant and inexperienced individual, there are two more points to consider. The pipe is rigid, not flexible. I may be lacking in understanding, but that was not immediately evident to me. Additionally, there is just a sizable jubilee clip securing the surge tank lid located at the rear of the engine. The casting seems to be quite sturdy, and first, I was unable to discern its method of connection. I obtained two photos from an internet movie to provide a slightly altered viewpoint.

Tremendous assistance! Thank you very much, DMGRS. I extensively explored other web catalogues, but unfortunately, I was unable to locate it. Greetings

Thank you very much SD1too, I will examine it.

Thank you, another person also brought up this point. Indeed, the particular item in question is a component manufactured by Bosch. However, the only identification number I managed to locate is A1694700293, which has now been verified by physically examining the part installed on the vehicle. None of the motor factors have been able to find any results for this number, and they have confirmed that it is a Mercedes component number. I have dedicated several hours scouring the internet in an attempt to locate a certain Bosch component number, but my efforts have been unsuccessful. It is peculiar that there is no information available in the online Bosch database.

I apologise for the delayed answer. However, I had sent this before leaving the nation for a duration of one month. Regardless.. Thank you very much for the assistance, individuals. Now I will attempt to place an order. I have tried many motor factors without success, since it seems that the only available source is directly from Mercedes. I received a quotation for somewhat more than one metric tonne for a single unit. However, they do not currently have any units available in the nation, and they are unable to provide an estimate of the time it would take to get one for me. Peculiar! Postscript: I will make sure to note the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for future reference. I am gradually becoming more familiar with owning a Mercedes.

I am experiencing heightened symptoms of my Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder, prompting me to address and eliminate a few bothersome sounds emanating from my engine compartment. One component that I suspect to be the alternator pulley/belt is known to often produce noise. However, I am uncertain whether it is worth replacing. The second unit seems to be fixable by changing a certain component, however I am uncertain about the exact name of the component. Additionally, I have been unable to find a part number on the current device. The object seems to be stuck in the intake manifold and is resistant to removal without significant effort. I am hesitant to use force to extract it, as I fear it may incur damage before I can get a replacement. The component in issue seems to be a valve and is connected to a vacuum pipe branded "MOT". Attached is a picture. It seems like there is a loose ball bearing within the object, causing it to make a rattling noise while the engine is running. Could someone assist me in identifying the component? Providing a part number would be really beneficial, but even the name of the component would provide me with a starting point. Thank you very much

The energy flow metre is unnecessary. It is advisable to closely monitor the tachometer. The handbook provides a comprehensive list of potential causes for the system's failure to deactivate the engine, such as the AC system being set to blast air at the windscreen, the driver not wearing a seatbelt, or the steering wheel not being oriented in the correct direction. Do not excessively concern yourself with it.

I am experiencing a recurring issue with my Mazda CX-7 when the vehicle abruptly shuts off during operation. There are no warning indicators, such as the check engine or battery lights, illuminating. Additionally, the vehicle is not emitting any unusual sounds, odours, or smoke. The vehicle was experiencing intermittent engine shutdowns, which have lately become more regular. The mechanic is unable to connect the vehicle to the diagnostic equipment due to the absence of service lights, which prevents the generation of any error codes. This situation evokes a sense of fear and apprehension. Could somebody kindly provide assistance, guidance, or recommendations?

Aussie OEM is 2"

The dissimilarity between the OEM hitch in the United States and Canada seems to be somewhat peculiar.

We are quite satisfied with our just acquired CX-9 vehicle. Not enjoying the hitch scenario for what I thought would be a simple situation. The automobile was not equipped with the towing package. I own a bicycle rack that is equipped with a hitch measuring 2 inches in diameter. The original equipment manufacturer (OEM) in the United States is often a Class II hitch, which has a size of 1.25 inches. I would want to avoid the inclusion of an additional converter. All of the available aftermarket hitches for this particular vehicle possess a 2-inch dimension, which is deemed superior, and are priced at half the cost in comparison to other options. However, I am curious as to whether this may potentially result in any complications with the leasing agreement. I am also contemplating the possibility of removing the hitch prior to returning the vehicle, and if the dealer would possess the means to detect such an action. Moreover, it is worth noting that in Canada, the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) hitch is designed to accommodate a 2-inch hitch receiver. I am uncertain about the logistics of arranging for the shipment of the item to this location, as well as the potential implications this may have on the existing lease agreement. Is there any knowledge available on the intricacies of hitches and Mazda leasing agreements? What are your thoughts on the matter at hand? Thank you for your response.

The engine thermostat was replaced. The item X114 was substituted. Another potentially concerning observation is the loose condenser fan switch located on the thermostat housing. It is capable of being rotated in many directions, namely around the spade connections and plastic base. I have placed an order for one of those items, but I am uncertain whether its acquisition is really a determining element in addressing my problem, since the functionality of my condenser fans seems to be satisfactory.

The voltage regulator inside the alternator was examined and determined to be functioning properly. The experimentation was conducted in an automotive parts retailer known as O'Reilly's, as well as at a specialized establishment focused on the refurbishment of alternators. Could there perhaps be an additional voltage regulator located external to the alternator?

I have previously changed the throttle potentiometer with an improved replacement sourced from RoversNorth.

The temperature gauge has a tendency to fluctuate upwards, reaching levels between 3/4 and 4/4, even after brief driving sessions. The engine's temperature was measured using an infrared (IR) gun, which indicated that it did not exceed the threshold for overheating. The highest temperature recorded at the top of the radiator intake was around 220-225 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition, I have proactively replaced the radiator with a four-row variant, as well as the water pump. Furthermore, I have included the use of water wetter and replaced the expansion tank, upper radiator hose, and the passenger side elbow connection connecting the water jacket in the engine block to the heater intake pipe. The installation of a new fan clutch. The single wire and double wire coolant temperature sensors located on the top of the intake manifold were both replaced. The problem is exacerbated when the running lights are activated, resulting in an increase in the temperature gauge reading to around 75% and reaching its maximum capacity when the headlights are switched to high beam mode. An inspection was conducted on the area situated behind the gauge cluster, and no apparent issues were seen. The ground block connections located at the base of each A pillar were inspected and afterwards cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. The Check Engine Light (CEL) on my vehicle has lately turned on, indicating an error with code 17 related to the throttle potentiometer. Upon further investigation, I have seen that the potentiometer has a common ground connection with the coolant sensor. However, I am still uncertain about the specific location of this ground connection. After reviewing the electrical troubleshooting instructions and the repair manual, I have encountered little assistance and insufficient guidance from these resources. I need the existence of an electrical repository or a straightforward wiring schematic for this vehicle, since the flow diagrams or flowcharts included in the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) are very perplexing to comprehend. Have any other individuals within our community had such problems with their 1995 Long Wheelbase (LWB) Classic 4.2 model?

It seems that you are exhibiting signs of haste. It is advisable to adopt a reflective stance and reevaluate the whole of the scenario. What was the purchase price of the car? I purchased my vehicle for a sum of £4.5K when it was 6 years old from a dealer. The vehicle came with a documented history and had undergone a timing belt replacement at 76K miles. Investing £2.5K on the reconstruction of an engine with a mileage of 150K does not seem to be a prudent decision. The aforementioned dealer is now offering a 2008 diesel 6 vehicle for sale for a price of £3,000, with a recorded mileage of 64,000 km. In the event that an individual expends £2,500 for the purpose of repairing their vehicle, thereafter sells such vehicle for £500, and subsequently procures a replacement vehicle from a dealer that includes a guarantee, it is advisable to promptly board the next available train. The provided URL directs to the webpage of Arnold Clark, a reputable automobile dealership, specifically showcasing The cost of a camshaft, with the associated seal and sensor, is rather high. One may easily spend a sum ranging from £200 to £300 in this context. An additional sum of £200-£300 is required for the replacement of the timing chain, water pump, and auxiliary belt. An further £50-£100 is required for the lifters, along with any other small expenses necessary for completion. In addition, a payment of £50 was made to the individual in order to get confirmation of the current situation. In addition to the injector seals, there are additional costs associated with transportation, among other factors. A payment of £500 is required prior to commencing the rebuilding process. It is advisable to have a realistic perspective and anticipate that the ultimate cost of doing the do-it-yourself project will approximate £1,000. However, in the event that the automobile is transported to the garage, the repair process is already underway. Consequently, a total of £2,500 will be depleted. Please calculate the prices associated with the known components that you want to purchase, as well as any additional expenses such as garage fees and transportation. Subsequently, contact scrap dealers to ascertain the amount they are willing to provide for the items. Auto Trader offers a range of comparable vehicles, including non-functional ones like yours, starting at a price of £500. Based on my conjecture, it is anticipated that the engine in question will have a limited lifespan, even subsequent to an assiduous £2,500 reconstruction executed by a proficient individual. Numerous GH autos exhibited a sequential arrangement of many chains, surpassing the durability of your vehicle without experiencing any disintegration. The engine in question will possess tolerances that surpass those of the original engine. Based on my analysis, it is anticipated that over a span of 1-2 years, you will go back to the initial starting point. In order to alleviate any concerns, it is advisable to arrange for an individual to visit your residence and inspect the vehicle. It is recommended to provide them with the requested amount, such as £60, as a means of ensuring piece of mind that you have made an effort to address the situation. The website "whocanfixmycar.com" is a platform that connects individuals in As previously mentioned, they may avail themselves of the opportunity to inspect the premises without incurring any charges. If the provided prices are expressed in thousands, such as the £2,500 quote previously obtained over the phone, it is advisable to carefully consider if this course of action is appropriate. The durability of the 2.0 belt engine surpasses that of the 2.2 chain variant of the same engine. If one were to assume the role of the seller, it would be advisable to promote the item in question on the Auto Trader platform, with a suggested price of £500. It is anticipated that the potential monetary compensation for the item in question, based on its scrap value, may amount to £250. By successfully selling the automobile for £500, one may avoid the inconvenience of dismantling and selling its individual components. I would allocate the £2,500 towards the acquisition of a replacement vehicle from an authorized dealership, in order to address the repair expenses. If the intention is to acquire an additional six units, it is evident from the advertisement provided that one may be obtained for a somewhat higher cost than the £2,500 required for repairs. One can question the reliability of the claim that by paying £2,500 upon entering the garage, there is an assurance of not incurring a larger cost upon departure. In the event that you decide to purchase an additional six units, it would be advantageous to retain your current unit for the purpose of salvaging spare components. When considering the purchase of an additional six vehicles from an independent dealer, it is important to note that a majority of these cars are acquired via part swaps. These vehicles are often not eligible for sale at franchise dealerships due to the presence of inherent flaws. One notable drawback is to the recurring maintenance requirements, which incur a rather high cost that exceeds the dealer's ability to provide a warranty and effectively market the product. The items are sold at auctions for a base price of £500, which is subject to additional costs for the auction and transportation. Consequently, the initial price of £500 is effectively doubled to £1,000. Subsequently, independent dealers acquire these items and proceed to double the price once again, anticipating a future sale. There exists a possibility that opting to withdraw from a financial commitment of £2,500 and instead acquiring a £2,000 vehicle from an independent dealer via an auction may result in a comparable outcome, so leaving an additional £1,000 available for the purchase of a franchise automobile, which may be considered a more advantageous use of funds. Nevertheless, I am disinclined to undermine the essence. It is evident that you possess enthusiasm for do-it-yourself (DIY) projects, and I encourage you to continue with your endeavors. Even in the event that one expends £500 on auto components and afterwards sells the whole vehicle for a comparable sum, the resulting loss is little. However, I would discourage the expenditure of £2,500 on engine repair, even if it is performed by a professional in engine maintenance. The level of danger involved is excessive. It is advisable to contemplate about the matter and seek further perspectives and information before to making any commitments. 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I lack knowledge on the specific manner in which the valves are influenced by the chain. However, what is the mechanism through which the engine rotates without initiating combustion? Based on the visual evidence shown in the video, it can be inferred that there is a component inside the engine that is not securely fastened and is thus exhibiting movement. Do these chain kits begin at a price of £250, even in the absence of full completion? I strongly advise against taking the risk. Consider the scenario when an individual has a budget of £250 or more, which enables them to get a new chain kit and thereafter engage in a do-it-yourself (DIY) installation process. How do you plan to address the remaining errors and flaws identified by the reader? This transition is a significant leap into uncharted territory. In the event that a nearby automobile auction is accessible, it is plausible to purchase a functional vehicle for a cost that is just marginally more than the expenses incurred for the necessary components to repair one's own vehicle. This observation suggests that there may be a problem or issue occurring in this context. The installation of a previous chain has been completed, and there is uncertainty over the potential resolution of the issue via the installation of a new chain, which would thereafter enable the vehicle to resume operation. In contemporary times, a significant portion of individuals choose to dispose of a vehicle due to the need of replacing tires and discs in order to pass the Ministry of Transport (MOT) inspection, as the associated costs imposed by automotive repair establishments may amount to a substantial sum. Based on the auditory characteristics of the engine, it seems that engaging in a subsequent chain is a rather optimistic prospect, since it is uncertain if it will sustain for an additional year or longer. Furthermore, it should be noted that these engines do not possess perpetual operation capabilities. They possess a negative reputation. One notable drawback of these vehicles is their tendency to exhibit signs of aging, albeit they do so in a somewhat unassuming manner. However, it is worth noting that their engines are particularly susceptible to weakness.

I had composed the response below, but you responded prior to my submission. It seems to have been eradicated, in my opinion. The cost of purchasing a new chain kit as individual pieces exceeds the potential revenue generated by selling it as junk or selling its individual components. Engaging in the sale of some components within a short timeframe, followed by the subsequent sale of the other components for scrap, is likely to provide a higher financial return compared to undertaking a repair endeavor of uncertain outcome. Below is the response I had composed: Given your characterization of the sound as "rattling," I would anticipate encountering a more resonant and low-pitched thumping sound than is presently seen. The occurrence of a profound thud often indicates the presence of bearings inside the engine. Can you confirm that the timing chain has not experienced mechanical failure? Is it possible for the diagnostics to measure the timing chain angle while the engine is not in operation? It is arguable that the codes being read are not inherently linked to the present issues at hand. It is probable that these codes were collected over an extended period of time; however, the vehicle remained operational. It is possible that disconnecting the battery may result in the resolution of some of these issues. If one were to do the chain, one may undertake the task of removing and cleaning the sensors oneself. If the cost of the sensors is quite low, one may consider taking the risk and purchasing them. However, it seems that the issue at hand is more likely to be related to a mechanical malfunction rather than an electrical malfunction. The resolution of the profound thud can only be achieved via the process of accessing the engine and investigating the underlying cause. Could you provide a historical record of the number of chains that have been used by this engine over its lifespan? It is possible that the engine has seen significant wear and tear, rendering it irreparable. I am uncertain about the valuation of the automobile, which is £2,000. Upon doing an Auto Trader appraisal, it is noteworthy that the estimated value for part exchange may fall below £500, while the anticipated value for a private sale may not exceed £1,500. The purchase of a pre-owned engine will incur a significant expense. I am uncertain as to whether you possess the ability to engage in rationalizations sometimes referred to be "man maths" and thereafter provide a valid justification for such actions. It is advisable to explore the services of scrap firms in order to ascertain the current market value of the automobile in its present condition. Alternatively, one may consider advertising the vehicle for dismantling and independently selling its individual components. It is hypothesized that by promoting certain components and successfully securing their sale, the revenue generated would exceed their intrinsic scrap value. Additionally, one may request the services of a mobile mechanic to do a thorough inspection of the vehicle. A brief assessment lasting around five minutes will be conducted to provide an overview of the recommended course of action and associated cost. It is conceivable that an individual may arrive and provide a cost estimate without charge. This serves as a cost-effective alternative prior to purchasing sensors and related equipment. It is hypothesized that the engine may have operated without enough lubrication, resulting in its eventual deterioration. The current state of the task makes it challenging to do as a do-it-yourself project, and it will need a significant financial investment. It is advisable to consult with an automotive professional to ascertain the necessary repairs and associated costs as a first step. Regardless of the information provided, the rate of rise is likely to escalate rapidly once they commence their endeavors. Next, ascertain the potential value of the item by evaluating its worth as scrap or by considering the possibility of selling it partly for its constituent pieces, followed by selling the remaining components as scrap. On Auto Trader, it is possible to get a more recent model of a 6 with lower mileage for a price below £2,000. If one is able to get £500 for their current vehicle, it is likely that an additional £1,000 or somewhat more would be required in order to acquire a newer vehicle with lower mileage for transportation purposes. If the amount of around £1,000 is sufficient to cover all additional expenses required for the operation of a car, it is advisable to contemplate relinquishing all expectations of restoring the current vehicle and instead acquiring a new one. Each wheel may be sold for a price of £50 on the online marketplace eBay. Additionally, the sale of other automobile components such as doors, bumpers, seats, lights, and other related items can together generate a sum of £500. This is the reason why scrap firms provide a somewhat higher compensation. It is essential that one completes their research, since the current state of the automobile does not permit its ignition. Determining the appropriate course of action is a challenging dilemma.

You're welcome.

The following solutions have been discovered for the purpose of resetting memory. One of the simplest methods to reset the Engine Control Unit (ECU) is as follows: Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Assume a seated position inside the driver's compartment of your Mazda automobile, then activating and deactivating the headlights, as well as engaging the horn mechanism. Depress and then release the brake pedal in a sequential manner for a total of five repetitions. It is recommended to wait for a duration of 10 to 15 minutes before attempting to reconnect in order to reset the Electronic Control Unit (ECU). If one is uncertain about the success of a certain action, it is advisable to refrain from engaging in this action for a duration of many hours. Reattach the terminal clamp labeled "Negative" to the battery of your Mazda vehicle. Initiate the ignition of your vehicle and let it to remain in an idle state for a little duration in order to facilitate the process of mapping. Subsequently, adopt a cautious and conservative driving style, like to that of a grandmother, throughout the first half-hour period of operation. The electronic control unit (ECU) will acquire knowledge that optimizing fuel consumption is the desired outcome and will consistently adhere to this objective. Because if you accelerate rapidly immediately after refueling, the vehicle will develop the understanding that injecting fuel at a high rate is the preferred method. There are two distinct reset processes, one designated for the Non-Volatile Random Access Memory (NVRAM) and the other specifically intended for the Keep-Alive Memory (KAM). Both methods will not delete your radio presets. To initiate the testing mode, first ensure that the key is in the off position. Next, press and hold the odometer reset button while turning the key to the on position. Maintain the button in the pressed state until the odometer displays the word "TEST," at which point the button may be released. To complete the process, it is necessary to rotate the key to the off position and thereafter repeat the first step. The proposed action would initiate a complete reset of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), except the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) that retains sensor profiles and other relevant data. The reset may be initiated using the well-known procedure: To initiate the ignition process, rotate the key to the "on" position. 2) Apply fast pressure to the brake pedal consecutively for a total of 20 repetitions, until the oil pressure gauge undergoes a sweeping motion from its initial position to the midpoint and afterwards returns. These proposed solutions are intended to assist in resolving any issues that individuals may encounter.