FireCar

Is the glass pristine?

Fuel makers claim that their premium fuels include superior detergents compared to their ordinary fuels. They might, of course, be deceiving. However, how can one ascertain with certainty the contents of a bottle of Redex, Millers, or Whyns? They may be repackaging standard petrol or diesel and marketing it in little bottles at exorbitant costs as 'fuel system cleaning'. I am unable to substantiate this assertion. If you, as a consumer, lack confidence in the veracity of the manufacturer's assertions, refrain from purchasing their items - it is your prerogative. b. MB does not endorse the use of gasoline additives introduced by the driver. However, they do not restrict the use of fuels that have had additives included by the gasoline vendor. The owner's handbook for my W203 said so, but I am uncertain whether Mercedes-Benz's recommendations have since evolved. Consequently, the use of premium fuels aligns with MB's recommendations.

I am uncertain of the specific component number, since I have yet to determine its intended destination. Additionally, garages seem disinterested; two have informed me that the vehicle is too old to get parts, despite its showroom condition.

I will examine it. I am becoming more frustrated with the installation and removal of the hardtop. I reside in Worksop; if someone could rectify this issue, please contact me.

Thank you, torque2me. Seek a competent mechanic to identify the potential issue and its location.

Hello, I am unable to identify the micro switch on Realoem. It would be beneficial to know what I am searching for or its precise location inside the storage compartment. Does anybody have suggestions to assist me in resolving this issue?

Thank you for your prompt response. Please be patient with me, since at 75 years of age, my days of working beneath automobiles are over, but I remain mobile.Laughing out loud. I verified that all pump levels are OK. The red light on the inside console began to flash, marking the onset of the issue, and it now flashes continuously.Which switch are you referring to?

Hello, I am experiencing an issue with repairing the hood, which I have been informed involves a micro switch. I have scheduled appointments at three different garages, and I have been continuously dismissed for over seven months. My BMW has just 66,000 miles, and I am something of a fanatic about it, since it is immaculate both inside and out. It left the factory equipped with all available features at the time, including a television. I consulted a BMW technician who diagnosed the issue as a malfunctioning micro switch located on the left side inside the canopy storage compartment. I have searched extensively for a replacement, but have been unable, since suppliers continue to provide parts for later models. I reside in the Nottinghamshire region of the UK and would really appreciate any assistance available. Thank you for your consideration. Best regards to everybody

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The products manufactured in China are substandard, as expected.

Thank you very much!

Thank you, I will proceed accordingly!

Scheduled two days of leave from work next week (weekends are reserved for family) to address several pending tasks on the E12: New exhaust system; Brake bleeding (for the tenth time, since these vehicles are very hard to bleed); Repair front and rear bumpers; install rear ARB; replace front radius arm bushings; repair horn; enhance appearance by addressing small rust spots and maybe polishing; improve interior by cleaning carpet and seating and reconstructing lower trim; install boot rubber seal; Replace the rear window rubber seal. Although time may be limited, the favourable weather prediction and lengthening nights suggest that I should significantly improve the condition of this automobile before Easter. Only TWO DAYS remain due to extensive repairs on my BMW E12!

I reset the codes, but, the two prior ones persisted. It is peculiar that the detached intercooler did not result in any error. The key aspect is the functionality of everything. Currently, I am anticipating the arrival of the sensor located in bank 2.

The intercooler pipe was not securely fastened, resulting in disconnection and subsequent loss of power. The only need was to rejoin and fasten it more firmly.

It seemed that I had failed to secure the intercooler tubing, which obstructed my efforts to remove the alternator. Upon being tightened, all aspects restored to their original state. Regrettably, the problems persisted. I reached out to the mechanic responsible for developing the stage 1 map, and it was determined that the first mistake is entirely OK, however the second issue requires rectification. I will promptly attend to it. Presently, the automobile remains in its original state prior to the occurrence of the alternator issue. Thank you for your response.

By "whole air intake," I am referring to all the plastic components located outside the engine whose specific English terminology I am unsure of.

Greetings, I own a 2008 Audi A5 8T 3.0 TDI. Today, I changed the alternator and had to remove many other components, such as the complete air intake system and the box filter, in order to do so. Currently, I am encountering two error codes, and if my recollection serves me well, I have experienced one of them previously: The error code P2015 00 [032] indicates a problem with the intake manifold flap position sensor on bank 1. The signal is implausible and has not been confirmed. It has been tested after the memory was cleared, but the results are intermittent. Now, there is a second one: The error code P2020 00 [040] indicates a problem with the intake manifold flap position sensor for bank 2. The signal is implausible and has not been confirmed. It has been tested after the memory was cleared, but the results are intermittent. The automobile was unplugged from the power source for about 10 hours, resulting in the reset of the clock and other related functions. Although I am uncertain about the significance of this, I felt it necessary to bring it to your attention. Upon starting the automobile, even a little press on the gas pedal causes the engine to quickly reach its maximum speed of 2.5k RPM. The engine operates in a very unsatisfactory manner and emits a significant amount of smoke. It is worth mentioning that my vehicle does not have catalytic converters, it has a stage 1 tune, and there is no EGR or DPF. Previously, it would sometimes emit smoke, but not to the extent and frequency that it does now (even a little amount of gas results in significant amounts of black smoke). Are these sensors perhaps responsible for these symptoms? Alternatively, might it be a matter that VCDS is failing to detect? I am completely unaware and in need of assistance. Apologies for any errors in my English spelling, since it is not my first language.

While waiting at my dealer for my car's second service at 40,000 km in around 15 months, I received a low 12V battery alert on my app. However, the dealer did not seem to be worried about it. I am certain that they did not connect it to any charger, and there were no problems as I drove away.

In the past, I often used their services, as well as those of Summit. However, I have not availed myself of their services lately. Nonetheless, I feel compelled to commend them here for anybody contemplating their utilisation. I believe that fridge magnets were not often produced about 15 years ago, making this my first one.

I placed an order for brake components for my SL vehicle from RockAuto in the United States on Sunday evening, and they were delivered today at noon. Our shipping is faster than many UK-based component vendors.

I intended to replace the defective CCC with a simple Mask or champ unit in order to see the car's sensors.

The automobile I own is a 2004 e60 530i, which is an older model. The output screen of the head unit uses a 10-pin connector. These are the photographs of it.

These are the connections on a champion unit. The display connection located on the right side consists of 10 pins.