FireCar

The products manufactured in China are substandard, as expected.

Thank you very much!

Thank you, I will proceed accordingly!

Scheduled two days of leave from work next week (weekends are reserved for family) to address several pending tasks on the E12: New exhaust system; Brake bleeding (for the tenth time, since these vehicles are very hard to bleed); Repair front and rear bumpers; install rear ARB; replace front radius arm bushings; repair horn; enhance appearance by addressing small rust spots and maybe polishing; improve interior by cleaning carpet and seating and reconstructing lower trim; install boot rubber seal; Replace the rear window rubber seal. Although time may be limited, the favourable weather prediction and lengthening nights suggest that I should significantly improve the condition of this automobile before Easter. Only TWO DAYS remain due to extensive repairs on my BMW E12!

I reset the codes, but, the two prior ones persisted. It is peculiar that the detached intercooler did not result in any error. The key aspect is the functionality of everything. Currently, I am anticipating the arrival of the sensor located in bank 2.

The intercooler pipe was not securely fastened, resulting in disconnection and subsequent loss of power. The only need was to rejoin and fasten it more firmly.

It seemed that I had failed to secure the intercooler tubing, which obstructed my efforts to remove the alternator. Upon being tightened, all aspects restored to their original state. Regrettably, the problems persisted. I reached out to the mechanic responsible for developing the stage 1 map, and it was determined that the first mistake is entirely OK, however the second issue requires rectification. I will promptly attend to it. Presently, the automobile remains in its original state prior to the occurrence of the alternator issue. Thank you for your response.

By "whole air intake," I am referring to all the plastic components located outside the engine whose specific English terminology I am unsure of.

Greetings, I own a 2008 Audi A5 8T 3.0 TDI. Today, I changed the alternator and had to remove many other components, such as the complete air intake system and the box filter, in order to do so. Currently, I am encountering two error codes, and if my recollection serves me well, I have experienced one of them previously: The error code P2015 00 [032] indicates a problem with the intake manifold flap position sensor on bank 1. The signal is implausible and has not been confirmed. It has been tested after the memory was cleared, but the results are intermittent. Now, there is a second one: The error code P2020 00 [040] indicates a problem with the intake manifold flap position sensor for bank 2. The signal is implausible and has not been confirmed. It has been tested after the memory was cleared, but the results are intermittent. The automobile was unplugged from the power source for about 10 hours, resulting in the reset of the clock and other related functions. Although I am uncertain about the significance of this, I felt it necessary to bring it to your attention. Upon starting the automobile, even a little press on the gas pedal causes the engine to quickly reach its maximum speed of 2.5k RPM. The engine operates in a very unsatisfactory manner and emits a significant amount of smoke. It is worth mentioning that my vehicle does not have catalytic converters, it has a stage 1 tune, and there is no EGR or DPF. Previously, it would sometimes emit smoke, but not to the extent and frequency that it does now (even a little amount of gas results in significant amounts of black smoke). Are these sensors perhaps responsible for these symptoms? Alternatively, might it be a matter that VCDS is failing to detect? I am completely unaware and in need of assistance. Apologies for any errors in my English spelling, since it is not my first language.

While waiting at my dealer for my car's second service at 40,000 km in around 15 months, I received a low 12V battery alert on my app. However, the dealer did not seem to be worried about it. I am certain that they did not connect it to any charger, and there were no problems as I drove away.

In the past, I often used their services, as well as those of Summit. However, I have not availed myself of their services lately. Nonetheless, I feel compelled to commend them here for anybody contemplating their utilisation. I believe that fridge magnets were not often produced about 15 years ago, making this my first one.

I placed an order for brake components for my SL vehicle from RockAuto in the United States on Sunday evening, and they were delivered today at noon. Our shipping is faster than many UK-based component vendors.

I intended to replace the defective CCC with a simple Mask or champ unit in order to see the car's sensors.

The automobile I own is a 2004 e60 530i, which is an older model. The output screen of the head unit uses a 10-pin connector. These are the photographs of it.

These are the connections on a champion unit. The display connection located on the right side consists of 10 pins.

Can I go from my defective CCC (Nav Pro) to the basic Mask or CHAMP head unit? The current CCC (professional navigation) unit is experiencing frequent reboots throughout the starting process, namely when the BMW emblem is shown. The price of these CCC head units starts at £350 for second-hand units and increases from there. I would want to inquire if it is possible to downgrade to a simple Mask or Mask-ll or CHAMP head unit. The previous Mask/CHAMP head units include identical connectors on their rear side. Based on my observation, it seems that modifying the front fascia and other related components would be necessary. However, it remains uncertain if these modifications would be effective. The main goal is to get data from the car's sensors, such as oil level and engine temperature. If the radio is functional, it would be considered an additional benefit.

There seems to be a limited selection of accessories available for the manual version of the Sportage vehicle. It may be more convenient and cost-effective to use a non-slip material and create personalised gripping inserts.

It would be advantageous for you to exercise patience and wait for a 2025 model year. It seems that the majority of these issues will be resolved by that time.

Greetings, everybody. Recently, I purchased our first Evoque, a 2012 Dynamic SI4 petrol, in the colour triple black. My wife's Audi Q5 - diesel was replaced due to the ULEZ expansion, which compelled us to make a change. Thus far, we are really satisfied with the car's smooth driving experience. It is amusing to see that my wife need a few trips to acclimatise to the transition in power delivery from the diesel Q5. There are a few small issues with the vehicle. The previous owner had serviced it shortly before we purchased it, but we are having trouble resetting the service indication. We have read that this is a common problem, but we are open to any suggestions to fix it. Additionally, the keyless entry system is not functioning properly. Experimented with the process of reactivation, since the former owner claimed to have impeded it due to residing in a region with elevated risk factors. If there are any techniques or other methods known to reactivate, it would be much appreciated. Greetings

The fit and quality of the product were not satisfactory, which was unexpected. The price of the item in Australia amounts to $420.

Greetings, everyone. Were any customers provided with original equipment manufacturer (OEM) accessories after purchasing their CX-60 vehicle? If this is the case: What was obtained? 2. What is the current status or progress (in terms of quality, etc.)? What other options were taken into consideration?

To initiate a reset of the on-board computer and restore mileage measurements to their default values, it is recommended to fully charge the automobile to 100% and thereafter disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for a duration of 20 minutes. The measurement is within the range of 206-209 kilometers.

I now own a TS7 Android head unit in my setup. I have discovered that a pink wire, which serves as the reverse switch wire in the new Android plug, activates the camera when a 12V charge is applied to the blue/black wire, originally designated for the amp remote in the old plug. As a result, I have made the decision to sever the pink wire, and this modification has proven successful so far. I am presently awaiting the arrival of a CanBUS module, which will enable the functionality of the steering wheel buttons. Regrettably, I did not capture an image of the subject matter at the present time. However, I intend to do so in the near future.