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The temperature gauge is providing inaccurate readings of overheating.


heralder

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The temperature gauge has a tendency to fluctuate upwards, reaching levels between 3/4 and 4/4, even after brief driving sessions. The engine's temperature was measured using an infrared (IR) gun, which indicated that it did not exceed the threshold for overheating. The highest temperature recorded at the top of the radiator intake was around 220-225 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition, I have proactively replaced the radiator with a four-row variant, as well as the water pump. Furthermore, I have included the use of water wetter and replaced the expansion tank, upper radiator hose, and the passenger side elbow connection connecting the water jacket in the engine block to the heater intake pipe. The installation of a new fan clutch. The single wire and double wire coolant temperature sensors located on the top of the intake manifold were both replaced.
The problem is exacerbated when the running lights are activated, resulting in an increase in the temperature gauge reading to around 75% and reaching its maximum capacity when the headlights are switched to high beam mode. An inspection was conducted on the area situated behind the gauge cluster, and no apparent issues were seen. The ground block connections located at the base of each A pillar were inspected and afterwards cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. The Check Engine Light (CEL) on my vehicle has lately turned on, indicating an error with code 17 related to the throttle potentiometer. Upon further investigation, I have seen that the potentiometer has a common ground connection with the coolant sensor. However, I am still uncertain about the specific location of this ground connection. After reviewing the electrical troubleshooting instructions and the repair manual, I have encountered little assistance and insufficient guidance from these resources. I need the existence of an electrical repository or a straightforward wiring schematic for this vehicle, since the flow diagrams or flowcharts included in the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) are very perplexing to comprehend. Have any other individuals within our community had such problems with their 1995 Long Wheelbase (LWB) Classic 4.2 model?

 

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It seems that there may be a problem with the voltage stabilizer. Have you conducted an assessment of battery voltage under different load conditions in order to determine whether there are any fluctuations? Could you perhaps provide more context or specify the kind of voltage regulator you are referring to?
I possess a comprehensive article on the topic of Electronic Throttle Mapping (ETM) for a Soft Dashboard. I will examine the matter at hand when I have the time throughout the weekend.

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The voltage regulator inside the alternator was examined and determined to be functioning properly. The experimentation was conducted in an automotive parts retailer known as O'Reilly's, as well as at a specialized establishment focused on the refurbishment of alternators. Could there perhaps be an additional voltage regulator located external to the alternator?

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Oh! It may be advisable to use a voltmeter set to measure voltage across the terminals of the battery in order to ascertain the readings obtained when different loads are activated.

Could you please provide information on the engine thermostat? I failed to see that particular item on your first list.

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The engine thermostat was replaced. The item X114 was substituted. Another potentially concerning observation is the loose condenser fan switch located on the thermostat housing. It is capable of being rotated in many directions, namely around the spade connections and plastic base. I have placed an order for one of those items, but I am uncertain whether its acquisition is really a determining element in addressing my problem, since the functionality of my condenser fans seems to be satisfactory.

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