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I believe it is time to proceed with my plan, which has been in development for several years. I aimed to minimise risks and avoid incurring debts while establishing it. I now need to purchase one or two two-post ramps; I have already acquired most of the necessary equipment, with significant expenses incurred for an Autel device and other diagnostic tools, including a scope. Additionally, I am considering constructing a DPF cat cleaner that can wash filters without necessitating their complete removal from vehicles, particularly for all Generation 3 cars, which require subframe disassembly. The remaining tasks can be accomplished with a day’s work on the floor, and cleaning the filters in situ will save vehicle owners approximately three hours. There remains the option for complete removal and remapping as well. I already work seven days a week, typically 10 to 12 hours on weekdays and 8 hours on Saturday and Sunday.

Your situation will improve—progressing positively, with additional minis to be preserved!

In January, I executed a ten-year lease for my own mini specialist, to be named Mini Mike's Mini Specialist. Last week, I submitted my resignation at work, which was met with disapproval; however, I maintained a cordial demeanour and was offered incentives to remain. Nonetheless, I prefer to dedicate myself to working seventy hours a week for my own venture.

I greatly appreciate it. Your expertise is consistently valued in this forum. You ought to possess your own part.

I utilise Yeo and Smith's machine shop in Plymouth, where an 81-year-old craftsman expertly grinds cranks. His ingenuity has greatly benefited me over the years. I also procure Kings bearings, which he sources in the appropriate sizes, along with rings. I utilise FAI and head bolts. FAI head gasket and FAI timing chain complete kit, including the oil pump chain kit, are excellent quality at reasonable prices. I utilise either Febi, FAI, or genuine oil pumps. Best of luck, as the initial attempt is usually challenging.

Thank you for your response. I anticipated that you would. I recognised that the codes were unrelated, yet I felt compelled to disclose them. It appears that I will be undertaking one of your rebuilds, which I find rather agreeable, to be candid. Any recommendations regarding which components to get would be much valued. This mini is too valuable to damage, and my objective is to maintain these minis in operational condition. It has only completed 80,000 kilometres.

The oil pressure light is unrelated to those codes, in my opinion. It is necessary to utilise a wet oil pressure gauge to ascertain the real-time pressure. It is common for an engine to exhibit oil pressure when cold, but as it warms up, the pressure may drop to zero, triggering the warning light. Likely causes include significant wear in the cylinder head where the camshafts are located, any grooves indicating irreparable damage, and potential crankshaft damage. To assess this, remove the sump and inspect the bottom surface; any grey colouration suggests that the crankshaft is compromised.

Greetings, everyone. I purchased a Cooper S with this defect. The apparent pressure sensor has been installed by a garage, suggesting it is an authentic sensor. Nevertheless, the light illuminates. No fault codes are associated with the issue; only the footwell module requires reprogramming. The battery was completely depleted. It initiates on the first attempt and operates well at idle. The light activates once the engine has reached optimal temperature. My inquiry is regarding the initial steps for inspection and replacement. ??? Thank you in advance.

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The vacuum pump operates the locks and massage seats, while the hydraulic pump controls the roof and trunk.

The SL63 AMG is stored for winter; nonetheless, I recall from the handbook that the roof and windows may deactivate in freezing conditions to prevent seal damage. Or did I merely fabricate that in my mind?

I reconstructed and evaluated the pump approximately 12 months ago and encased it in plastic to ensure its dryness, so I anticipate it will be satisfactory. I am awaiting a slight improvement in the weather before commencing the disassembly, as it is quite cold in the North. I have observed that detaching the trim panels on the gearbox tunnel provides access to a mechanism for unlocking the locker lid. Is this accurate? I have detached the trim panel from the front of the locker; nevertheless, access is very limited. If the removal of the gearbox tunnel trim panel is indeed feasible, I will likely pursue that option. The vario roof is also inoperative, which I believe relies on a separate pump located atop the PSE pump. It appears unusual that both pumps have ceased functioning simultaneously, prompting me to consider a fuse or relay issue.

The fuse is located behind the driver's seat. The pump is likely irreparable. £1,000 for a new one. They typically become moist due to water intrusion in the trunk.

The varioroof has been inspected and is non-functional. The issue may be linked to the pump in the trunk. Is this fused, or is there a relay attached with it? If possible, please include the fuse/relay number and its position.

All was functioning properly with the central locking system until the onset of the cold snap. My SL350 was exposed to the elements for several days and became thoroughly frozen. Subsequently, when attempting to unlock with the key fob, there was no response. Utilised the emergency key to access the vehicle and successfully opened the trunk. The battery was inspected and deemed functional; however, it was charged overnight as a precaution. I suspected a fuse issue, so I removed the fuses related to the central locking system, but they were functioning well. The fuses for these boxes are situated in the engine compartment. Access to the fuses in the fuse box located behind the driver's seat is obstructed due to the central locking mechanism securing the lid of the cubby box. Upon use the key fob, the lights flash as though the vehicle is being locked or unlocked, and the alarm system is simultaneously engaged. Nonetheless, the doors remain unlocked, and the side mirrors do not retract. Do you have any suggestions? Is there a method to access the cubby box located under the seat to get the fuses? Is there a control module that manages the locking and unlocking of doors?

I will request my dealer to verify. I assume it cannot be delivered to home? Requires placement on a lift?

....but, it is possible that you may. I was experiencing starting and EML troubles with one of my vehicles.The leads were satisfactory; but, upon closer examination, there was some green discolouration at the ends. When I removed the insulation from the ground lead, it revealed a deteriorated, green and black substance that disintegrated in my hands. It is remarkable that it functioned at all. New leads resolved all my concerns. Merely a small amount for general eBay items. Examine the junction where the ground attaches to the body, ensuring both surfaces are polished to a gleaming metal finish before reattaching. Additionally, inspect the periphery of its insulation. Certain vehicles, particularly some ALFAs, benefit from an additional engine-to-body ground wire. Additionally, cleanse the battery terminals and clamps, particularly if they exhibit a dark or black hue.

It is likely that a new component is unnecessary; ensure that the connections are clean and provide effective metal-to-metal contact.

I appreciate this. I have been searching for this part number.

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/fg/246203/p01/54/030/

The year of your B Class is uncertain, but assuming the parts diagrams are accurate, the B200 CDI indeed possesses an engine-to-body grounding strap (W246 version): Component number 250 is located here:

I brought the vehicle to the battery shop since it remained under warranty. The battery was inspected and deemed to be in good condition. They transported it to a local Exide testing centre and informed me that it was functioning properly. The warranty replacement applies solely if the battery is entirely nonfunctional and does not revive after bench charging. ChatGPT identified it as a weak ground strap issue. However, the Mercedes-Benz dealer asserts that such a part does not exist. The alternatives available to me are: 1. Disregard the problem until a more significant issue arises. Proceed to the dealership and purchase their battery (Varta, rebranded for Mercedes) for around 50,000. Purchase an additional Varta battery for 27,000. What actions should I undertake?