DenishP4

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Hello, my scan tool is a very basic Launch 129, and it has not detected any problems. The inpa software on my laptop isn't working properly when linked to the car. Neither the battery nor the ignition symbols turn black to indicate that the two devices are connected, and I keep getting problems no matter what I do. In my opinion, turning on the ignition (the cluster lights) is necessary for it to function properly.

Just moments before this occurred, the vehicle was functioning properly. I got in the car and tried to turn the diamond key in the ignition, but it remained stuck, as if the steering lock were engaged. After giving the wheel a little tug, I finally got it to position 2, but I still couldn't see anything on the center display or in the cluster lights. I turned the key to start (with my foot still on the brake since it is an automatic), but it did not work. I left the battery negative for a few hours, and now whenever I try to start the car after reconnecting it, the center display shows a key with a vertical line through it. After re-connecting the battery and trying to start the engine using the key, I only get this indicator once; further attempts do not display it. The meaning of this sign is "Key Not Recognised," according to internet searches. Is it necessary to consider obtaining a replacement key because the car's CAS 2 system detected the key in the ignition but did not receive the valid code? On the other hand, is the absence of dashboard cluster lights a more serious issue? It was not a key recognition problem, according to one key replacement shop. Headlights, wipers, radio, fan controls, driver-operated window switches, and engine control are all absent. The internal central locking switches and hazard warning systems are operational. Visual checks were all fused. Battery connections in the engine compartment and the boot are 12 volts. There is a 3v diamond key battery. The driver's door cylinder key lock is used to lock and unlock the doors. As the driver locks and unlocks the door, all windows are down or up. I would much appreciate any recommendation. Please put me in touch with a local in the SE4 2JH area of London who can come get me started; I'm willing to pay for the service.

Here are a few pictures of it

Greetings everyone, My Vgate iCar Pro 2S scanner is unable to communicate with any of the modules in my 2005 Mini Cooper S (R53) due to a no-communication problem. Basically, I've tried everything that's commonly used for this. The splices under the seats appear to be fine, but I saw some strange, non-factory splices under the glovebox that make me dubious. Just wanted to reach out and see if anyone has dealt with a similar dead-bus/no-communications issue and could give me some pointers. What I've tested—the lengthy version The scanner connects without a hitch, however neither the ECU nor the ABS will respond. Specifically, I was looking at the diagnostic bus, which is the violet/white cable. In order to eliminate any potential problems, I unplugged each module on that line individually. This includes the power steering pump (EHPS), which I have verified to be OK. Concerning the electrics: The power is flowing into the OBD port. The integrity of the wire connecting pin 7 to the ECU ensures proper continuity. Since there is no continuity between pin 7 and the ABS connector, I will have to address the possibility of a broken bus branch leading to the ABS. No signs of corrosion or pins that have been bent or pushed back are seen on the ABS connector. To further exclude them, I additionally disconnected a few of more components: BCM—removed, all connections appear to be in fine working order. Turned off radio entirely. And the connections: Looked under both seats; everything seemed to be in order. I discovered some strange, non-factory splices behind the glovebox, and they make me suspect. Please let me know if you have any insights. I am grateful.

See the back subframe up close and personal while you're down there.

My 212 snapped in half the second I tried to use my jack on it. I wouldn't recommend it because of the price of the wrong jack.

Though I would have preferred a more uniformly saturating mist (for the front and back, particularly that stream for the back glass), it's actually quite passable. In addition to double-checking spirod's suggestion, I would just extend the duration of the wiper spray anytime you are travelling at a greater pace. On a purely anecdotal basis, I think it makes a noticeable difference to lightly tap the brakes while travelling at highway speeds and to spray washer fluid to ensure better saturation. (At least for many of these newer vehicles that want to conceal the wipers beneath the hood to the extent that you have to switch them to service mode to bring them up) The washer fluid spray installed on the wiper bars themselves is a brilliant design. The washer fluid spray on the new Palisade is permanently mounted below the windscreen, so it barely reaches the top portion of the window either parked or driving.

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I see your perspective. For turning the tires, I already have one and a torque wrench.

Good morning

I experience tinnitus, so if the sound is high-pitched, it may be obscuring it.