Gianni682

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That makes perfect sense. My next concern is if these are easily accessible for inspection and where exactly are they installed. They should preferably be accessible with a trolly jack and stands because I don't have access to a ramp.

After a few minutes of driving, I swear my low beams become lower, like they illuminate less of the road ahead. I might be dreaming, but I really doubt it. They get up and dance, and then continue on as usual. Then, as I continue to drive, I can almost feel the illuminated road drawing nearer to the vehicle. Every time I turn active lighting on and off, the main beam works just fine, and I never get any problem warnings. Whatever is wrong with this vehicle must be related to its always-great lighting. Is anyone else experiencing this problem, and if so, what's the likely culprit? I am selling a 2012 W204 250.

In order to make things better while still staying within the law, you may find a variety of so-called "upgraded" halogen lights online. Have a look around and read reviews where relevant; Halfords would be a good place to start. Since most manufacturers have abandoned the Xenon alternative, LED lamps have quickly become the standard. However, as is well known, it is technically illegal to simply install LEDs into headlamps designed for halogen, so to avoid a MOT failure, it is best to stick with halogen, preferably the best you can afford. It is easy to overlook some characteristics that you truly desire when perusing a new car's specifications list, so before you buy another vehicle, jot down a list of everything you absolutely must-have. A heated steering wheel, LEDs, an automatic gearbox, electronic power brakes, a lengthy warranty, respectable gas mileage, etc. are the standard features on mine. Hopefully, you'll be able to locate dependable upgraded lights.

I was wondering if you have any news on this. Enquiring about the nature of the problem. I am grateful.

The engine now starts on the first try every time without fail after I changed the fuel filter and the orings in the fuel lines. I will soon tackle the remaining few nagging issues, such as injector number four's "black death" problem. I have acquired a reaming tool, washers from Honda, new nuts, and ceramic grease, so I should be able to straighten it out. In light of this known issue, how is your experience driving the truck? Days, not weeks or months—occasionally spitting under the cover, not quite full with tar just yet. There are a plethora of minor flaws that require attention. Additionally, it has to be run for a while to determine if there are any other problems, since it has been sitting for some time. Runs and stops well now, thus the two most important things are taken care of. The indicator stalk lights up three times when you turn right, but it stops blinking when you leave it on; I have no idea how frequent this is either.

Captain's log: after draining the reservoir, the leak stopped. It turned out to be washer fluid leaking. The engine now runs much smoother, the tappets are much quieter, and I changed the oil using oil flush. There was nearly no coolant in the engine when it arrived (it came in dead) due to the oil and air filter being extremely dirty and unpleasant. There was also about seven litres of water added to top them up. How are individuals able to live such a life? It starts after a few long cranks, so now we need to oil the fuel filter and gasoline lines. Are there any guides or films for that one?

After inspecting the leak, it appears that the washer bottle is more likely to blame than the coolant. Drops of liquid can be seen on the bottom of the ABS pump, and the flavour is sour, unlike coolant, which is pleasant. Therefore, I would conclude that the washer bottle is leaking. Unfortunately, I also filled it up, and it's a shame that the washer liquid and coolant are both blue. Tomorrow I will empty the washer bottle to check if the leak is still there or has gone. It takes more than a minute of combined cranking to start the beast, but once it's started, it starts faster the next day—probably due to an air leak from the orings I read about. Is there a decent explanation of that position somewhere? Tomorrow I will install a new fuel filter and attempt to get a few orings changed; I have six orings from Mercedes, so I am prepared. As far as I am aware, there are two on the pump and one on the fuel filter. Regarding the handbook, I will look into finding a PDF version someplace. To come after the first service. Thank you!

Welcome, everyone! I recently purchased a 2002 W163 ML270 CDI—a vehicle that did not start and was declared dead upon arrival. So far, I haven't run into many issues; nevertheless, I have a query that I will include at the conclusion of the post as some of them could be useful to others. It had a dead battery, and someone had inserted the 100The right way to connect a block fuse to the positive terminal of a battery is this: bolt on the wire, fuse (which has blown), and last, a plastic nut. I had to temporarily install an external maxi fuse box because the device wasn't making good contact. Afterwards, I discovered that the glow plug lights and coolant would remain turned on. Glow plugs and a plethora of other signals appeared once I connected to the diagnostics, and the coolant temperature showed -40C. I discovered it was detached while searching for a replacement sensor; so, if it reads -40C, inspect the plug and wires. Then, since I wasn't sure of the hue of the coolant that had been used before, I had to add about 7 litres of distilled water to it. I wasn't expecting to have to add so much water, but whatever. After deleting the errors, it runs smoothly without any lights. The only remaining ones are two for the left mirror, and one of them is a heating water circulation pump (B1108-M13). The other two are a rear blower (B100A-M2/1), a rear shut off flap position motor (B1206M2/12), and a high pressure and return pump (C1401 A7/3m1). It was strange since after I changed the 100A fuse, the rad fan remained on full blast, the rad light was on, and there were codes P0115-2 (coolant temperature sensor), P1482-4 (glow output overcurrent), and 2, 4, and 5 (glow plug failure). For some reason (don't ask me how), hooking up the temperature sensor reset the codes and restored regular operation of the fan. Currently, I'm seeing an unusual coolant leak that isn't particularly constant. It appears to be coming from behind the washer bottle region, which was initially my suspicion, but now it appears to be leaking coolant. I will verify tomorrow, but it appears to be working and much better thus far. Also, according to the municipal maintenance rules, oil is actually sludge and not oil at all. Anyhow, I'll try to locate the source of the leak and change the oil; I'm curious as to whether or not the head gasket was cooked by the excessive amount of coolant that was missing. Because the device on the positive post was crooked and not making good contact due to its looseness, the vehicle remained still. I can't wait to fix this, but why do people ignore their automobiles for so long? Where can I get a digital copy of the service manual for these?

Hmm... Just so you know, I remember hearing something about how the problem of "very old coolant breaking down into an oily mess" might be fixed by simply replacing the coolant. N.B. That information is anecdotal, so I cannot in any way verify it. However, I seem to recall that a cooling system sealant ingredient had previously been used and could have contributed to the symptoms. Whatever you decide, best of luck, and do report back to us when you have solved the mystery.

A cylinder head failure across the same channels would cause the same symptoms as a crack in the block or cylinder head between the coolant and lubrication channels, in my opinion.Both of those things can go wrong with a cylinder head and it will still be perfectly OK as far as combustion pressure is concerned.

As an aside Because I experienced the same issue with an old dump truck that we used for cleaning out our stables, I can say with certainty that EP gearbox oil does, in fact, emulsify to a cream color when combined with water. Additionally, while "EP" lubricants are specifically designed for gearboxes, it seems that the majority of normal gearboxes do not operate under pressure. My guess is that if a gearbox had a heat exchanger, the pressurized coolant would exit the cooling system much more quickly than the gearbox lubricant would enter it.

I'm at a loss for suggestions because we've pretty much covered everything.

No problems at all with my washer fluid... while ATTENTED to a traffic signal. YET, while going over fifty miles per hour, it completely omits the region that the motorist can see in front of their nose! Fluids can't clean that area because of the wind. Terrible layout; give it a go the next time you're driving. Look at that dry spot and tell me I'm incorrect...

I had a wish list and a list of items I didn't want when I bought my 2024 CX-30. A sunroof was absolutely not something I wanted. I never would have thought to use one, and living in the hot summers of southern Arizona, I assumed the sunroof seals would dry up, crack, and shrink with time, adding to the burden of having to replace them. That, I believe, reduced it to the 2.5S basic model and the Sport trim. The choice was further reduced to a 2.5S when I chose the 16" wheels/tires with somewhat higher sidewalls to mitigate some road bumps.