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False Information!

It is time for a media regulatory body to impose substantial penalties on any media organisation that neglects to verify the accuracy of its published content. It has reached a juncture when one cannot trust any information disseminated by media sources.

The recall pertains to the MK1 Niro, which utilised the same engine as the hybrid Ceed/Xceed. This is not applicable to the Mk2 provided from 2022 forward. It is characteristic of the Daily Fail to present an incorrect model. I verified this on the DVLA Recalls website by entering the data of a Mk1.

Daily Mail? It is advisable to disregard it.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/yourmoney/cars/article-13263837/hyundai-kia-recalled-vehicles-road.html

The story was published on April 2, 2024. This pertains to the U.S. market, and the impacted vehicles were produced between 2010 and 2017.

There is no such connection. The DM story features an image of the new Niro model; nevertheless, the recall referenced appears to pertain to the prior model.

https://www.businessinsurance.com/kia-hyundai-recall-over-640000-vehicles-with-faulty-components/

It is the "Daily Fail". I assume there is a reference in the document that provides factual information?

The Daily Mail features an article titled "Definitive Guide to the Safest Cars and the Ones to Worry About," which assigns a safety score of 1/5 to the Niro hybrids and states: ,,In January of this year, Kia announced a recall of over 640,000 hybrid vehicles, including the Ceed, Niro, and Xceed models, due to concerns that clutch fluid may leak onto the circuit board, potentially causing fires. This incident may cause a short circuit, which, as stated by Kia in a letter to consumers, can 'result in a danger of fire in the engine compartment while driving.'' I have not gotten any such correspondence, and the Kia recalls website indicates no safety recalls associated with my VIN. Feedback?

Indeed, I am cognisant of that; I am merely attempting to ascertain the precise requirements. Visiting a wheel shop is a commendable suggestion; however, I am uncertain about the availability of such establishments in this area, as most have transitioned to online platforms.

My 2019 E400D does not come with any form of spare tyre or sealant. It is fitted with run-flat tires as standard. The vehicle is equipped with Eagle F1 MO tires, however they are not run-flat (RF) variants. The 19" space saver was obtained from a 2015 Audi A5. No original equipment wheel bolts; the current ones are excessively lengthy. The MSW/OZ 19-inch winter wheels and tires are sourced from a BMW 530 G30.

Aftermarket wheels typically require different bolts; I experienced this with a W211 while transitioning from aftermarket to OEM, resulting in the bolts being too short. Essentially, the opposite of your actions. Visit a wheel or tire establishment; they should possess bolts available for purchase.

If you possess a steel space saver spare, the shorter bolts required for its installation are typically included with the vehicle and are generally located in the styrofoam holder that accommodates the jack, wheel wedge, and warning triangle.

The lug bolts for your Audi include a radius seat.

Is there no one who possesses this knowledge?

Greetings, I attempted to install a set of winter wheels on my 2019 W213 today and discovered that the original equipment wheel bolts are excessively lengthy. The wheels are OZ-MSW 5 x 112, 19x7.5, equipped with 245/45 R19 winter tires. I can either obtain spacers or acquire shorter wheel bolts. I believe I may possess a compatible component utilised on a 2002 Audi S3, M14 x 1.5, with a thread length of 30mm; however, I am uncertain whether it is ball or tapered. I suspect the wheels include a 60-degree taper, as they originated from an F30 BMW. Is there a straightforward method to verify this? I possess a steel space saver that likely requires shorter bolts; it was initially intended for a 2015 Audi A4. 1. Could someone verify if my OE wheels are ball or tapered? 2. Is there a swift and straightforward method to ascertain whether I require ball or tapered bolts for my MSW alloys? 3. Is there a swift and simple method to ascertain whether I require ball or tapered bolts for my Audi A4 space saver? Thank you

I soaked mine in plus gas four times over two days; it still would not budge with a scaffolding bar and a three-quarter inch ratchet.

The initial step is to utilise a high-quality breaker bar equipped with the appropriate socket. Ensure the vehicle is securely positioned on the ground to prevent the wheels from rotating. If that fails, applying penetrating oil and exerting consistent pressure typically proves effective. Avoid abrupt movements; a calm and controlled approach is optimal.

I had this issue several times and ultimately managed to resolve it. They indicated they would weld a nut on within one minute, but it was only after that they successfully liberated it.I damaged my BMW key nut, purchased a replacement for £22, and nearly compromised that one as well. The garage ultimately removed it using an air gun after 30 minutes. I have now removed all locking bolts from my car and will replace them with four standard bolts, ensuring that whoever re-tightens them applies the correct torque of 120/125 Nm. My M4 currently has spacers, so I have extended locking bolts, but I plan to replace them with four extended bolts to match.

The first action I take upon acquiring a previously owned vehicle is to discard the locking nuts/bolts. You may enquire at your local tire shop if they would assist you in removing it, as I have done previously.

Extended breaker bar

Thank you; I will attempt this. I have just ordered the regular wheel nuts.

The presence of the locker complicates matters; if I were in that situation, I would utilise the key to remove the other three first, and then for the obstinate one, I would secure the key in place by welding before employing a socket on it. Upon removal, discard them and install regular bolts.

The locking wheel bolt is intact; however, it is very tight, preventing regular removal. The tyre shop previously overtightened it using an air cannon, which is why I believe it is now difficult to remove. What recommendations would you provide? Thank you!