markjay

I tested the head gasket and it looks to be fine, however the piston rings appear to be a little loose since the engine is producing a little blue smoke. Other than the neutral to first synchro failing, so I can only get into first if I downshift, everything appears relatively okay, however the corrosion on the back sills is a bit of a worry. I am not going to change as it is very difficult to get a replacement GB. Overall, it seems like the two I'm observing have been well-kept. They are both spotless vehicles. Both of them have also undergone procedures. Some suggest 60–80,000, while BMW says never since it's "sealed for life." Someone changed the oil and filter in the gearbox of that one. You make a good point there as well. If it's symmetrical, I always say replace both of them. That one apparently had its back suspension (on both sides) changed, so I'll have to give it a further inspection. The fear of receiving a dud is probably all it is. Looking at the MOT report for one of them, I believe I saw that it had a single bulb failure. Like the n57, do the m57 chains rattle and exhibit slack when cold started? Regardless, I suppose it's worth checking, because I believe they've both had chains done as well. Beyond the usual things you'd look at in a regular automobile, is there anything else I should inspect carefully?

I've read a number of articles on it. According to BMW, changing the oil every 20,000 miles is preferable than not changing it at all. So I tell myself. It would be replaced without delay in my opinion. And I highly recommend sticking to a 6-8k interval. It's frustrating that they couldn't find another approach to convince fleet purchasers 😞

Regarding my desires, interests, and preferences in vehicles, I must admit that my past is a little of a mystery. Things changed, I was no longer involved, prices plummeted, I became quite broke, Elon went crazy, and I learned to prefer estates, but I almost bought an electric vehicle as a BIK business car. Then I became enamoured with the Octavia VRS 2020+. Beautiful vehicle, but the price tag was too high, and I kept wanting more power. It was difficult for me to let go of the desire for a Skoda dad vehicle after having an incredible experience driving a fully equipped 4WD Superb in the Arctic Circle two years ago. If I had infinite funds, I would still choose a C8 RS6 before any other car, sorry, but I've never been a big fan of BMW and have always considered myself more of an Audi man. The 320D–335D 3 Series Estates, meanwhile, had a certain allure for me. I don't know what it was, but the n57's engine problems, especially the spinning bearings, really freaked me out. To the point that I've turned a blind eye. According to what I've read, the m57 is a tank—very sturdy and resilient. That, I suppose, is what drew me to the 535Ds. They look like a great value, and they're strong and versatile enough to handle most situations. Similar to a maris piper. Make full use of it! In my previous position, I was typically putting 100-600 miles on the m4 or m5 every week, so I'm no stranger to highway driving. Currently, my weekly output is usually closer to 100. In the next few months, I intend to increase my weekly mileage to between 250 and 350 miles. This is when things become tough. I'd want to stay within my budget, so I won't spend a fortune. If it's not crazy for a 530-535D M57, I'd like to pay somewhere around $10,000. "If you can find one that looks good, at least has a fsh and is around 100,000 miles, you should be doing good," my brain assures me, and I'm starting to believe it. However, my knowledge of BMW engines is limited. I'd prefer to have it running and not sitting in a garage full of expensive BMW components, even though I've changed the belt and done some other light maintenance on a 1.6TDCI. Apparently they have a problem with the turbo, glow plugs need to be changed, and the rear air suspension compressor can be a bit of a joke. I've seen a couple on the market, but I have no idea what to look for beyond the essentials, like a timing chain that has been done, oil, gearbox oil and any necessary repairs. Inspect the tires for smoke during cold starts, uneven wear, brand, and tread depth. Will rusting occur on these? What I mean is, would you recommend these guys for £100 to cure your back pain or other structural issues? If I were thinking about it, would it be a good idea to have a BMW expert have a look at the car? Although I'm originally from Bristol, I've seen a couple for sale throughout the nation, including one in the Bournemouth/Southampton area (Sea = rust) and another close to Oxford. Could you suggest some guys from those locations to have a look? I aim to get as much knowledge as possible since I enjoy delving into things. Oh my, that's just a bunch of irrelevant details. Apologies if I lost you at RS6, but I appreciate you taking the time to read this.

now, get your popcorn...

When you're heated, you might undo and use a lot of Plusgas. It is my preference to remove the temperature sensor and utilise that port.

It appears to require a regen due to the impending DPF issue. Does the regen have any restrictions? There may be an issue with the MAF, but it could be caused by something else. I'm not an expert, but maybe if you probed more, you could find out. I figured Foxwell would be a good diagnostic tool, but I haven't really utilised it.

The most recent FAI full TC kit is included with it. Is the tensioner the only part you need? You should be able to find one at the BMW dealership in your area. I don't see why it's only the tensioner. Can you hear the chain swishing?

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The battery is hard to reach because it sits beneath the center console, but a fast online search suggests that you should change it every four years. Despite what is on today's automobiles, replacing it will not be inexpensive. When it requires replacing or there's a problem, a red light near the button looks to light up. If you don't update the battery, Kia has a statement or disclaimer that covers themselves. If the caution light is on, the mot might not pass.

At least two YouTubers have purchased one in recent months.

What is Pollok's flavour?

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/yourmoney/cars/article-13263837/hyundai-kia-recalled-vehicles-road.html

The story was published on April 2, 2024. This pertains to the U.S. market, and the impacted vehicles were produced between 2010 and 2017.

Negative, it is a recognised software anomaly. The truck reverts to its standard height following a complete stop and exit. The sole viable solution is to manually revert it to High each time you re-enter. It is particularly vexing, especially in off-road conditions. There is much anticipation for a forthcoming update that will incorporate a "remember last setting" feature. You are not solitary in your exasperation.

I have not observed any difference upon deleting the flaps. You can verify the position using live data; but, it will not provide any information beyond what you already know. The flaps are soiled and deteriorated at the spindle passage, causing the motor to operate more without effectively advancing the flaps further. It may still be N47, as both can be eliminated. Input the last seven digits of the chassis number into Realoem to ascertain the engine installed.