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I appreciate that, but for now it's more of a hit-and-miss than a strategy for success. After I found the K-CAN wiring diagrams, I was planning to inspect the bus to determine whether the CAS was causing it to be dragged down and, consequently, the communication codes. Whether the CAS could intervene with the DDE to halt the pressure buildup was something I pondered. Upon matching immobiliser codes, my understanding is that the CAS sends the start enable signal to the DDE; however, I am unsure of the symptoms. I was wondering if it would be best to simply get a full set of CAS, DDE, lock, and key in order to verify the fault has been resolved, before sending both modules for cloning, so that I can preserve the VIN, mileage, etc. Another option is to simply obtain the DDE and replicate it. Time is of the essence; I need the automobile by next week's end; hence, I may have to settle for purchasing the set and cloning it when I have more time. By the way, have you heard anything about the possibility of reducing the donor's mileage? Like I mentioned before, I'd like to maintain accurate mileage records, and I'm worried that I won't be able to adjust the settings from a higher-mileage vehicle to my lower-mileage one if I borrow a set.

A malfunctioning DDE that is unable to regulate the HPFP metering valve is the only remaining possible explanation. You have already replaced the fuel-related components (I wouldn't put my faith in EKP to fix it) and the HPFP twice, yet it continues to not produce any pressure even after mechanically twisting it.

I started this thread since the problem is driving me crazy; I had already contributed it to another one, but it's probably too long now. If I am unable to locate the problem tomorrow, I will have to arrange for the car to be repaired at a garage. While returning from Heathrow, the vehicle abruptly stopped responding (the "drive moderately" sign flashed on the dashboard) and would not turn over. I managed to get my car towed home, but they were unable to back into our driveway, leaving it parked on the street. Unfortunately, I do not have a secure method to get underneath it. In addition, it restricts my activities during rainstorms. Just before Christmas, I took my car in for the B+ and blower wire recalls. I had been putting them off because I didn't see any problems with the wiring and was afraid they could mess with anything and cause a problem. It looks like they have, but I still don't think that's the problem with my crank not starting. I've done my best to summarise everything that has transpired with the car since the beginning of December. Current Tasks 16th December: Vehicle brought to Marshall BMW for recall repairs (airbag, B+ cable, and blower cable rework). Returns a number of S-codes for use with the control unit, siren, electronic fuel pump, roof function center, CID, alarm, and electronic fuel pump. I still haven't found out what caused it. The codes that tend to appear most frequently are: There is no communication with the electronic fuel pump module (S 0098), the CAS (S 0074), and S 0114. No communication with the control unit, air conditioning, navigation system, or JBE (S0117, S0155, and S0212, respectively). On occasion, the option to remove codes becomes greyed out and cannot be chosen. Similarly, accessing the ECU functionalities is not always possible. 19th December: Undersealed rear subframe, front control arms/links/wishbones, gearbox fluid and brake fluid were replaced. Noticed an oil leak on the cover of the rocker. January 18th: Installed new copper washers, cleaned injector seats, and replaced rocker cover and gaskets. On February 5th, while driving home from Heathrow Airport, my car broke down about 5 miles from my house. The Check Engine warning light momentarily came on before the car shut down, and now it won't turn over, even though it cranks normally. Except for the codes that are present after recall, no other codes are used. Although the pre-supply pressure rises to 3.9 bar, the main rail pressure remains at 10 bar. Over the rocker cover, sooting was noticed. It was found that the hose connecting the exhaust back pressure sensor was not properly reinstalled following the change of the rocker cover. Working without producing any output. Viewed codes again following cranking, and 04B90 was detected. The lift pump, HP fuel pump, metering valve, pressure accumulator, rail pressure sensor, and rail pressure relief valve were all replaced from February 12th to the 17th with used but billed as "working" equipment. Got the codes cleared and tried to access the fuel system bleed procedure, but couldn't get in touch with DDE. The option to do a fuel system bleed was unavailable when I finally gained entry to the DDE menu. The lift pump may be powered for two minutes using the spare battery. We saw and cleared multiple communications-related codes. Car continues to spin, but won't start. During continuous cranking, the rail pressure can spike to as high as 70 to 90 bar, which causes the engine to try to start but fail. While cranking, the central display may show many codes and messages, which could be caused by a depletion on the battery. After removing the DDE make contact relay, a fused jumper was inserted across terminals 2 to 6. It appears that accessing DDE communications is still not possible. Error code for DDE relay recorded. The car turns over, but it doesn't start since the rail pressure isn't there. There is no indication of injector leakage while cranking, according to the leak off check. While cranking, the rail return hose became twisted, yet the rail pressure remained unchanged. I turned it on after disconnecting the rail return hose. When cranking, fuel leaks out of the return hole of the pressure rail. Relay for making contact was replaced. The fuel bleed process cannot proceed because ISTA cannot communicate, although the DDE is now showing as green. Transferred HP line from HPFP to rail and kept an eye on flow rate as cranking was done. Looks like the flow won't be able to develop pressure and is moving slowly. february 20th and 21stSwapped the HP FP for a refurbished one. Examined the engine bay for any signs of fuel line leaks. The pump was powered for two minutes by a battery. I managed to complete the first part of the fuel system bleed procedure (pump operates for three minutes), but unfortunately, I was unable to proceed to the second part since the car refused to start. There have been no increases since pre-supply was at 4.1 bar and rail was at 10 bar. After re-cranking, the rail return line became clogged, but the rail pressure remained unchanged. Taken the DDE off and checked it for rust and water damage; everything seems OK. I measured the voltage drop across the splice in the B+ cable while cranking, and it was 0.01V. Checked at 60 ohms at the PT-CAN on the OBD (pins 6–14). Revise (to include): I swapped out the JBE to make sure the module isn't the source of the communications problems. Revoked the pressure rail regulator adjustments after an unsuccessful attempt to reset them, according to ISTA. During a test drive, the engine was turned on but the clutch was not depressed. The pump activated and the central display indicated a pump failure, even though the engine was still running. The driver maintained a moderate speed. The display notice was cleared, but the pump did not restart, even after cycling the ignition. Since there is still one component of the system that needs replacing, an EKPS is on its way to me.

Thanks for the video bro

Fair play for coming back and updating. Good to hear a company like Tivanagh Transport actually sticking to their process.

Update time... The Puma arrived tonight around 6 pm. Transporter called about one hour before arrival. First reaction was relief! It’s booked in with my local garage tomorrow morning for a full inspection. Happy to admit I might have judged too quickly.

Keep us updated, mate. Curious how this plays out.

Relax! I bought a 2023 Hyundai Tucson Hybrid from them everything was handled properly. It's still drive like a baby 🙂

Alright… I’ve done something slightly mad. I reserved the Ford Puma yesterday and transferred payment this morning. Heart was racing pressing confirm. They’ve acknowledged receipt and said delivery is being arranged for next week... 8 days If this goes wrong, feel free to say “told you so.”

Hi That’s the reality of buying remotely though. I work in motor trade logistics and quite a few finance repos are sold like this now. If they’re giving you 14 days from delivery and it’s written on their website in plain sight, that’s stronger than a lot of small independent dealers.

Fair point. Still feels uncomfortable paying before seeing.

Because if funds are genuinely in a segregated account, they can’t just “run off” with it. If they were trying to scam people, they wouldn’t be offering refunds within 14 days.

I’m still not convinced, bank transfer is basically zero protection if something goes wrong. What’s stopping them from just ignoring you?

I did, but between flights, hotel and time off work, it wasn’t worth it. They said viewings are possible but by appointment and stock moves quickly. I relied on the inspection period instead.

Did you consider flying over to Belfast first?

I actually completed a purchase with them it was a 2022 Mercedes A200 AMG Line and I had exactly the same concerns about sending a transfer. Tivanagh Transport sent over the payment invoice, v5, and confirmation the funds go into a segregated client account. The money doesn’t get released to their sales division until you confirm acceptance within 14 days. I had it inspected within 48 hours. Everything checked out. Only then did I confirm I was keeping it.

That helps, but companies can still branch into dodgy territory. What bothers me is full payment upfront no deposit, no card option, nothing.

I get why you’d think that. I live just outside Belfast and Tivanagh Transport have been around for years doing haulage work. They’re not some brand new company that appeared last month. I haven’t bought a car from them, but I’ve seen their transport lorries on the road for a long time. Doesn’t automatically make the vehicle side perfect, but they’re a real firm.

I’m going to say this upfront this feels dodgy I saw Tivanagh Transport advertising a 2023 Ford Puma ST on eBay and the price is way below anything similar on the market. They say it’s a repossession from a UK finance company, delivery in 7–10 days, 14 days inspection period, money held in a segregated business account until you approve it. But they only take bank transfer. Sorry, but that screams red flag to me. Has anyone actually bought from Tivanagh Transport or is this one of those setups that looks professional until your money’s gone?

I have not encountered anything similar to this issue in my 6,600 miles of driving. I would take it to the dealer to have it examined!

I have not encountered anything similar to this issue in my 6,600 miles of driving. I would take it to the dealer to have it examined!

Excuse me, but no. As near as I can tell, the front radar failed to pick up any objects. And it was a sunny day, too. As far as anyone can tell, it only occurred once. I am unsure as to whether your problem would trigger any codes or not. It might be a good thing to look into.

🤣🤣🤣

Is this problem unique to me? Wow, that's funny!

It's fucking killing me. This wasn't the case when I first got it, and I only started using it about three weeks ago. My 2025 cx70 has three thousand miles on it. Whenever I come up behind another car at a stop light, the front camera and continuous beeping start acting as if I'm extremely close to the car in front of me, but this crap happens whether I'm two feet or six feet away. I've attempted to alter the security parameters, but to no avail. Do I need to schedule an appointment and bring it in, or is there something I can do? I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this or if it's happening to anyone else.