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I concur. It performs adequately with most vehicles; nevertheless, I have reservations regarding the reliability of the offline VIN decoding. US decoders typically misinterpret UK or European decodes and complain about incorrect check digits. This one is accurate. https://www.vindecoderz.com/ Notably, the SRS fault had vanished this evening. Likely related to temperature and humidity; therefore, I will certainly clean the connector(s).

This would lead me to doubt the quality and reliability of the Chinese clone.

Indeed, I possess multiple multimeters and have over 40 years of knowledge in electronics, hence I should be capable of diagnosing the SRS error. I find it peculiar that there are flaws attributed to non-existent oecus. Perhaps it is merely an anomaly associated with the China Delphi CDP clone? The anomaly regarding the VIN is peculiar. The "read VIN" function correlates the vehicle with the V5C paperwork; however, CDP recognises the VIN as a W203 CLC from 2008 onwards.

The overvoltage and undervoltage faults are likely historical. The majority are referred to as BS codes. Ensure to measure the alternator's output when it is operational. If you exhibit no defects or symptoms, disregard the codes. It is likely that you will need to do wiring inspections for the airbag malfunction. Wiring schematics and potentially a resistance-generating gadget will be required. https://cpc.farnell.com/c/test-equi...multi-meter or resistance and continuity meter. Are there any defects with the steering wheel buttons? Are there any codes in the SWCM?

Initially, I must mention that I am utilising a China Delphi CDP Autocom to diagnose and erase errors. I suspect the vehicle is a W203; but, upon reading the VIN, Delphi identifies it as a 2008 CLC, which it absolutely is not. The SRS malfunction appears to be caused by significant resistance in the driver's airbag. I will examine the connector after the rain ceases. Multifunction diagnostics indicate numerous defects; nonetheless, it appears that all components of the vehicle are functioning well. The system is indicating parking aid malfunctions, despite the absence of parking sensors in the vehicle. This is the SAM list. The vehicle was operational, hence I am uncertain as to why I am experiencing simultaneous overvoltage and undervoltage conditions. Is there a comparable defect list from "Front SAM"? Multifunction (SAM - Rear (Signal Acquisition and Control Module - Rear) - SAMH203 (Signal Acquisition and Control Module - Rear) - MT/AT) B1043 - Terminal 30: undervoltage < 8 V - Permanent B1093 - Malfunction in CAN communication with control unit Left frontal entrance. If a fault code appears without any documented complaints or problems, clear the fault memory and conduct a function check - Permanent B1045 - Permanent Overvoltage B1078 - Communication fault with alarm signal siren, possibly due to an additional battery issue or cable malfunction. - Indelible B1044 - Terminal 30: permanent undervoltage below 10.5 V B1066 - Left turn signal; short circuit or open circuit - Permanent B1089 - Malfunction in CAN communication with the instrument cluster control unit. If a fault code appears without any documented issues or malfunctions, clear the fault memory and conduct a functional check - Permanent B1054 - Left stop light; short circuit or open circuit - Permanent fault B1091 - Malfunction in CAN communication with the AAC pushbutton control unit. In the event of a fault code appearing without any documented complaints or failures, clear the fault memory and conduct a functional check. - Enduring

What is your location in London? I am aware of several contacts you can reach out to, depending on your location.

Indeed, I am cognisant of that; I am merely attempting to ascertain the precise requirements. Visiting a wheel shop is a commendable suggestion; however, I am uncertain about the availability of such establishments in our region, as most have transitioned to online platforms.

Indeed, I am cognisant of that; I am merely attempting to ascertain the precise requirements. Visiting a wheel shop is a commendable suggestion; however, I am uncertain of the availability of such establishments in this area, as most have transitioned to online platforms.

My 2019 E400D is not equipped with any form of spare tyre or sealant. It is fitted with run-flat tires as standard. The vehicle is equipped with Eagle F1 MO tires, however they are not run-flat (RF) variants. The 19" space saver was obtained from a 2015 Audi A5. No original equipment wheel bolts; the current ones are excessively lengthy. The 19" winter wheels and tires from MSW/OZ are designed for a BMW 530 G30.

Aftermarket wheels typically require different bolts; I experienced this with a W211 while transitioning from aftermarket to OEM, resulting in the bolts being too short. Essentially, the opposite of your actions. Visit a wheel or tire establishment; they should possess bolts available for purchase.

If you possess a steel space saving spare tire, the shorter bolts required for its installation are typically included with the vehicle and are generally located within the polystyrene holder that accommodates the jack, wheel wedge and warning triangle.

The lug bolts for your Audi are of the radius seat kind.

Is there a lack of knowledge among all?

Greetings, I attempted to install a set of winter wheels on my 2019 W213 today and discovered that the original equipment wheel bolts are excessively lengthy. The wheels are OZ-MSW 5 x 112 19x7.5, equipped with 245/45 R19 winter tires. I can either obtain spacers or acquire shorter wheel bolts. I believe I may possess a compatible component utilised on a 2002 Audi S3, M14 x 1.5, with a thread length of 30mm; however, I am uncertain whether it is ball or tapered. I suspect the wheels utilise a 60-degree taper, given they originated from an F30 BMW. Is there a straightforward method to verify this? I possess a steel space saver that likely requires shorter bolts, originally intended for a 2015 Audi A4. Could someone verify if my OE wheels are ball or tapered? 2. Is there a swift and straightforward method to ascertain whether I require ball or tapered bolts for my MSW alloys? 3. Is there a swift and straightforward method to ascertain whether I require ball or tapered bolts for my Audi A4 space saver? Thank you

False Information!

It is time for a media regulatory body to impose substantial penalties on any media organisation that neglects to verify the accuracy of its published content. It has reached a juncture when one cannot trust any information disseminated by media sources.

The recall pertains to the MK1 Niro, which utilised the same engine as the hybrid Ceed/Xceed. This is not applicable to the Mk2 provided from 2022 forward. It is characteristic of the Daily Fail to present an incorrect model. I verified this on the DVLA Recalls website by entering the data of a Mk1.

Daily Mail? It is advisable to disregard it.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/yourmoney/cars/article-13263837/hyundai-kia-recalled-vehicles-road.html

The story was published on April 2, 2024. This pertains to the U.S. market, and the impacted vehicles were produced between 2010 and 2017.

There is no such connection. The DM story features an image of the new Niro model; nevertheless, the recall referenced appears to pertain to the prior model.

https://www.businessinsurance.com/kia-hyundai-recall-over-640000-vehicles-with-faulty-components/

It is the "Daily Fail". I assume there is a reference in the document that provides factual information?

The Daily Mail features an article titled "Definitive Guide to the Safest Cars and the Ones to Worry About," which assigns a safety score of 1/5 to the Niro hybrids and states: ,,In January of this year, Kia announced a recall of over 640,000 hybrid vehicles, including the Ceed, Niro, and Xceed models, due to concerns that clutch fluid may leak onto the circuit board, potentially causing fires. This incident may cause a short circuit, which, as stated by Kia in a letter to consumers, can 'result in a danger of fire in the engine compartment while driving.'' I have not gotten any such correspondence, and the Kia recalls website indicates no safety recalls associated with my VIN. Feedback?

Indeed, I am cognisant of that; I am merely attempting to ascertain the precise requirements. Visiting a wheel shop is a commendable suggestion; however, I am uncertain about the availability of such establishments in this area, as most have transitioned to online platforms.