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You can see a lot of these autos. To hell with it, just walk away and keep searching.

Some mot testers can be a little off when it comes to warnings, so I would either check it myself or get someone else to do it. Due to the salt and road conditions, as well as the fact that they are the closest parts to the road and will inevitably take a hammering from stones and other debris, subframes will inevitably see surface rust.

The subframe failed on my 2016 Mercedes C207E400, and the vehicle was written off.Get out of here.Upon examination, my vehicle was cleared by a renowned expert.My vehicle's frame rusted within.

Shouldn't 2017 vehicles be unaffected? It could simply be surface rust, which is quite common. Unless it can be thoroughly examined, I think it's better to stay away from it.

I wouldn't buy that Mercedes unless they offered to fix it for free. Subframe rust on a 2017 car? What a shame!

As bad as it is in places you can see, it might be much worse in places you can't. Given the amount of trouble it would cause to fix if necessary, I would personally pass on it.

Salutations, I appreciate you providing that information. I am contemplating purchasing a 2017 CLS 220AMG Line Premium, but while reviewing the vehicle's MOT history, it indicates that there were advisories during the last inspection. My main issue is the subframe rust, which is not structurally unsafe. Other than that, it is a motor with a full MB service history and 49000 miles, and it has just one owner. I would greatly appreciate any input you have. My warmest regards Thank you.

Even if the payment goes through much before the due date, we still get a late payment reminder every month. Even now, I have stopped opening them. Sending them mail is costing Mazda a pretty penny. Countless customers call, worried that their payment didn't go through, according to the CSR. The grace time seems to be overlooked by the system.

I don't think I've ever gotten a notice to pay. Your message will be confirmed when it is scheduled and again when it is posted. Of course you can change the parameters for your email reminders.

Based on the subject lines of the following Mazda emails, I seem to receive a number of reminders by email for various reasons: approaching due date for payment the scheduled one-time payment for you a friendly reminder: the payment that is due is Your funds have been deposited. It does remind you to fasten your seatbelt, haha (albeit I would prefer it if it was sent via email so I can mark it as spam). These days, I prefer to stay with email for any kind of notifications or updates rather than text. Getting a message shoved in your face (if it were truly time-sensitive or vital) is wonderful and all, but it's too repetitive. Companies should only send a text message reminding customers that they have till the final possible day to make a payment in order to avoid late fees. You'll get a dozen reminders from doctors' offices, even if you've already confirmed; UPS wants to text you every time your shipment moves three feet across the nation, etc. A red message indicating a payment was needed appeared in my app, presumably from AMEX. It was merely a standard reminder, according to the representative I spoke with; I am never late, have great credit, and was not late with it. They treat us like we're perpetually overdrawn, past due, or late because of these constant, obnoxious reminders. An endless procession. Regulators are probably to blame for some of it. /rant

Mazda sends me four or five reminders to pay every month. I have an excellent credit history and have never been late. A few of emails and two or three texts serve as reminders for me. I paid on the first, but I was late because it was a holiday weekend and because the app asked me to pay twice. I received one or two notifications about the late payment. Their seatbelt reminders and Mazda payment reminders must have been done by the same person.

I had never had DDE done before, but I merely saw an ad for it on eBay when I had CAS copied.

Unfortunately, I did not have much time to investigate the problems today. I was given forty minutes. Very strangely, I spent the majority of that time attempting to identify continuity on K-CAN [Green and Orange Green twisted pairs], yet all of my attempts appeared to be open circuit. Finally, I went ahead and purchased a set of four things on eBay: CAS, DDE, Key, and Instruments. Expected arrival dates are Wednesday through Friday. I will attempt additional continuity checks when I have the time, but this week is really hectic. No visible indicators of damage were found when checking the CAS. I removed the screws from the DDE, but I was unable to remove the cover. Fearing harm, I replaced the screws. After cloning, it should function properly since DDE solely relies on the CAS for handshake and start enabling signals. I was wondering if anyone might suggest a cloning company.

Changing blades is a simple task. It is not necessary to change keys when cloning CAS. I sent both the original and replacement CAS off, and they simply copied the data over. After cloning, DDE, I thought it would be as easy as plugging it in.

Please tell me that the lock does not contain any coding information in the event that I decide to proceed with the CAS/DDE swap out/clone method. Thank you. Instead of changing the locks on the doors and glovebox, I could just use the manual blade key and insert it into the donor set's keychain.

When my f11 started loosing voltage at the terminals a few years ago, I thought it might be a cas problem. As a result, the sensor voltage codes were all low, and the crank wouldn't start. By connecting multiple power sources to the DDE via the JBE module, the CAS enables starting after the immobiliser is checked. Although I am not sure, I would think that there would be codes that indicate CAS has dropped. It could be wise to prepare the circuit diagrams and verify the terminal voltages of the power supply from CAS and JBE before proceeding with the control unit replacement and cloning. People with the right software can fix mileage issues if you do need to replace pieces.

I appreciate that, but for now it's more of a hit-and-miss than a strategy for success. After I found the K-CAN wiring diagrams, I was planning to inspect the bus to determine whether the CAS was causing it to be dragged down and, consequently, the communication codes. Whether the CAS could intervene with the DDE to halt the pressure buildup was something I pondered. Upon matching immobiliser codes, my understanding is that the CAS sends the start enable signal to the DDE; however, I am unsure of the symptoms. I was wondering if it would be best to simply get a full set of CAS, DDE, lock, and key in order to verify the fault has been resolved, before sending both modules for cloning, so that I can preserve the VIN, mileage, etc. Another option is to simply obtain the DDE and replicate it. Time is of the essence; I need the automobile by next week's end; hence, I may have to settle for purchasing the set and cloning it when I have more time. By the way, have you heard anything about the possibility of reducing the donor's mileage? Like I mentioned before, I'd like to maintain accurate mileage records, and I'm worried that I won't be able to adjust the settings from a higher-mileage vehicle to my lower-mileage one if I borrow a set.

A malfunctioning DDE that is unable to regulate the HPFP metering valve is the only remaining possible explanation. You have already replaced the fuel-related components (I wouldn't put my faith in EKP to fix it) and the HPFP twice, yet it continues to not produce any pressure even after mechanically twisting it.

I started this thread since the problem is driving me crazy; I had already contributed it to another one, but it's probably too long now. If I am unable to locate the problem tomorrow, I will have to arrange for the car to be repaired at a garage. While returning from Heathrow, the vehicle abruptly stopped responding (the "drive moderately" sign flashed on the dashboard) and would not turn over. I managed to get my car towed home, but they were unable to back into our driveway, leaving it parked on the street. Unfortunately, I do not have a secure method to get underneath it. In addition, it restricts my activities during rainstorms. Just before Christmas, I took my car in for the B+ and blower wire recalls. I had been putting them off because I didn't see any problems with the wiring and was afraid they could mess with anything and cause a problem. It looks like they have, but I still don't think that's the problem with my crank not starting. I've done my best to summarise everything that has transpired with the car since the beginning of December. Current Tasks 16th December: Vehicle brought to Marshall BMW for recall repairs (airbag, B+ cable, and blower cable rework). Returns a number of S-codes for use with the control unit, siren, electronic fuel pump, roof function center, CID, alarm, and electronic fuel pump. I still haven't found out what caused it. The codes that tend to appear most frequently are: There is no communication with the electronic fuel pump module (S 0098), the CAS (S 0074), and S 0114. No communication with the control unit, air conditioning, navigation system, or JBE (S0117, S0155, and S0212, respectively). On occasion, the option to remove codes becomes greyed out and cannot be chosen. Similarly, accessing the ECU functionalities is not always possible. 19th December: Undersealed rear subframe, front control arms/links/wishbones, gearbox fluid and brake fluid were replaced. Noticed an oil leak on the cover of the rocker. January 18th: Installed new copper washers, cleaned injector seats, and replaced rocker cover and gaskets. On February 5th, while driving home from Heathrow Airport, my car broke down about 5 miles from my house. The Check Engine warning light momentarily came on before the car shut down, and now it won't turn over, even though it cranks normally. Except for the codes that are present after recall, no other codes are used. Although the pre-supply pressure rises to 3.9 bar, the main rail pressure remains at 10 bar. Over the rocker cover, sooting was noticed. It was found that the hose connecting the exhaust back pressure sensor was not properly reinstalled following the change of the rocker cover. Working without producing any output. Viewed codes again following cranking, and 04B90 was detected. The lift pump, HP fuel pump, metering valve, pressure accumulator, rail pressure sensor, and rail pressure relief valve were all replaced from February 12th to the 17th with used but billed as "working" equipment. Got the codes cleared and tried to access the fuel system bleed procedure, but couldn't get in touch with DDE. The option to do a fuel system bleed was unavailable when I finally gained entry to the DDE menu. The lift pump may be powered for two minutes using the spare battery. We saw and cleared multiple communications-related codes. Car continues to spin, but won't start. During continuous cranking, the rail pressure can spike to as high as 70 to 90 bar, which causes the engine to try to start but fail. While cranking, the central display may show many codes and messages, which could be caused by a depletion on the battery. After removing the DDE make contact relay, a fused jumper was inserted across terminals 2 to 6. It appears that accessing DDE communications is still not possible. Error code for DDE relay recorded. The car turns over, but it doesn't start since the rail pressure isn't there. There is no indication of injector leakage while cranking, according to the leak off check. While cranking, the rail return hose became twisted, yet the rail pressure remained unchanged. I turned it on after disconnecting the rail return hose. When cranking, fuel leaks out of the return hole of the pressure rail. Relay for making contact was replaced. The fuel bleed process cannot proceed because ISTA cannot communicate, although the DDE is now showing as green. Transferred HP line from HPFP to rail and kept an eye on flow rate as cranking was done. Looks like the flow won't be able to develop pressure and is moving slowly. february 20th and 21stSwapped the HP FP for a refurbished one. Examined the engine bay for any signs of fuel line leaks. The pump was powered for two minutes by a battery. I managed to complete the first part of the fuel system bleed procedure (pump operates for three minutes), but unfortunately, I was unable to proceed to the second part since the car refused to start. There have been no increases since pre-supply was at 4.1 bar and rail was at 10 bar. After re-cranking, the rail return line became clogged, but the rail pressure remained unchanged. Taken the DDE off and checked it for rust and water damage; everything seems OK. I measured the voltage drop across the splice in the B+ cable while cranking, and it was 0.01V. Checked at 60 ohms at the PT-CAN on the OBD (pins 6–14). Revise (to include): I swapped out the JBE to make sure the module isn't the source of the communications problems. Revoked the pressure rail regulator adjustments after an unsuccessful attempt to reset them, according to ISTA. During a test drive, the engine was turned on but the clutch was not depressed. The pump activated and the central display indicated a pump failure, even though the engine was still running. The driver maintained a moderate speed. The display notice was cleared, but the pump did not restart, even after cycling the ignition. Since there is still one component of the system that needs replacing, an EKPS is on its way to me.

Thanks for the video bro

Update time... The Puma arrived tonight around 6 pm. Transporter called about one hour before arrival. First reaction was relief! It’s booked in with my local garage tomorrow morning for a full inspection. Happy to admit I might have judged too quickly.

Keep us updated, mate. Curious how this plays out.

Relax! I bought a 2023 Hyundai Tucson Hybrid from them everything was handled properly. It's still drive like a baby 🙂

Alright… I’ve done something slightly mad. I reserved the Ford Puma yesterday and transferred payment this morning. Heart was racing pressing confirm. They’ve acknowledged receipt and said delivery is being arranged for next week... 8 days If this goes wrong, feel free to say “told you so.”