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After purchasing a 2026 CX-90 PHEV GT (Canada) in May, I've been thinking about upgrading the speakers to make the car sound better, but I need some forum advice to make sure I'm not crazy. I typically keep my music volume between 85 and 90 dB, so I don't require a lot of power. Car audio is something I haven't dabbled in since the mid-2000s, so I'm attempting to get back on track with the latest industry standards. Before, I've gutted cars to install car audio systems, but I don't intend to do that to this one. 1. Could I connect the following amplifier to the electrical system to bypass the OEM Bose amplifier? The JBL amp's digital signal processor would fix the factory Bose equaliser before sending the signal to the original speakers via the original wiring. 2. Since Bose amplifiers are known to be finicky about impedances, would the load generator be necessary to keep the Bose amp in good working order? 3. Is it feasible to simply swap the speakers in the Bose system to fix the system if this splice in amp plan is not possible? Because fixing the Bose DSP/EQ would not be possible, this may not be the best course of action. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could share a wiring diagram for the Bose CX-90 with me; I have been unable to find one anywhere. Also, I'll be sure to muffle my voice for the duration of this. I have already completed the rear sub and trunk floor, which has made a slight improvement in that area. The JBL DSP4086 is an 8-channel digital signal processing automobile amplifier available at Crutchfield Canada with 40 watts RMS x 8. 3.5" Speaker x 7: Infinity Reference REF307F Reference Series 3-1/2" 2-way automobile speakers from Crutchfield Canada Crutchfield Canada offers a pair of 4-inch Infinity Reference REF407F Reference Series 2-way car speakers. Infinity Reference 375TX- 3/4" Component Tweeter: Two-Tweeter: Electronics: Amazon.ca: Sub x 1: I'm considering ditching the OEM since I'm not usually one for deep bass. Resistive loads to avoid radio shutdown are available at Crutchfield Canada from the Kicker 46KISLOAD4 load generator, which is part of the K Series 4-channel smart radio interface.

It seems to have worked, so thank you to everyone who helped with the information. This morning, I am truly overjoyed. Its apparent simplicity astounds me. I thought it was a plug-and-play when I got the charger, but now there are so many apps—ugh.

The car and battery can be made to be inaccessible to each other using a simple CT Clamp or Henley block (though I'm pretty sure you were already aware of that 🙂). The catch is that you can force charge your storage battery cheaply as well if Octopus schedules an off-peak charge.

A Wallbox charger is what I use to charge my EV2 on Intelligent Octopus Go. Even though it can do it at any time, I set the car schedule for 2330-0530 so that it will first drain the domestic battery, since I haven't wired it properly. Octopus makes a plan, but it can't charge the car until 23:30, so it will change the plan as needed, keeping it limited to the car's schedule. Based on my observations, it seems to be working. It worked perfectly for my MG4, and the swap was easy.

I appreciate the guidance.

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-7e312b-90706-3d98a771bc-k&k=Kia+Connect+app

With an Octopus Charge and IOG, I simply leave the Octopus app at 75% and use the Kia Connect app to set the car's charge limit. On long trips (or once a month), I receive a full charge, and on shorter ones, I receive an 80% charge. DC charging is set to 80% (this has nothing to do with charging at home, of course).

Please remove that schedule. IOG has the ability to charge at any time during the off-peak price, not only from 23:30 to 05:30.

Thank you for that. The charger is ready to go. I will see how it works tonight after making the change to only charge at a cheap rate. Is this the way it ought to be? I hope for the best

Thanks to my Octopus Charge device, my EV2 appears under Octopus Devices the moment I plug it into the charger. If you choose Smart Charge, Octopus will figure out the most cost-effective way based on your preferences. For optimal off-peak charging of your vehicle, which occurs between 23:30 and 05:30 hours, you should enable the Charge Cap feature in the Settings menu. Because Octopus will take precedence, you won't have to mess with your Kia app. Nevertheless, there are alternatives available in case you require charging outside of these hours. This should be useful.

Is it normal that the Kia app does not display when the car will be charged, even though I have tried setting it up again for tonight?.

Smart Game

I was wondering if you were playing Intelligent Go or Octopus Go.

I am having trouble charging my car using the Octopus app. Nothing is going to interfere with the schedule, and Octopus is in charge of the app. The problems persist even after I removed the car from the Andersen app. I could really use some guidance. Warm regards

Find a buddy who is a mechanic and ask if they have the necessary software and machine. Hopefully, everything will be taken care of when he looks at it.

We independent VAG specialists have access to the VW system, which is ODIS, but it is expensive and difficult to use. You can't get by with just fault codes; there are alternatives, the most popular and effective of which is VCDS. However, it's not enough to have the system; you also need to know how to use it.

A diagnostic tool with VAG software is thus essential for me.

They will be unable to know that unless they possess appropriate software. Injector balance corrections in measuring blocks and a return leak off test are necessary for diagnosis of these.

No new injectors have been installed. Heard from the mechanic that the injectors are functioning properly.

A CAYC code engine is notoriously finicky when it comes to injectors; they frequently, if not always, break down. Many dubious "reconditioning" businesses peddle junk due to the high number of issues with these. Only the brand new, authentic VDO/Continental A2C9626040080 or the brand new, authentic VW part 03L 130 277 S, priced at £756 each, can be trusted. The new injectors must be programd to the ECU, and the high pressure fuel system must be spotless with no debris or metal specks visible above the fuel filter. There is a smooth running injector balancing procedure in the programming of the diagnostic system they used (ODIS for VW), but you should never use it. Doing so will completely mess up the ECU's learned values and make the engine make a horrible noise called Diesel knock.

I fixed all the leaks on it, but now I'm confused because the shuddering and clacking noises weren't caused by a real leak of pip.

Have returned it home and it is ready to go... it can reach speeds of 70 mph. They said the injectors were fine before they were locked out. It's a 1.6 and it's driving me crazy.

It seems like you should take it to a different garage to have it fixed. Are you sure it's a 1.6 or 2.0? I'm betting on the former and it requires an injector.

Good day! I'm crossing my fingers that someone can lend me a hand. A pipe was replaced because the car was leaking. After getting a new throttle body, air filter (because the previous owner installed an induction kit), oil, etc., the car suddenly starts making a clacking noise. Is this the EGR system? It runs like a champ now. It has spent the past two weeks parked in a garage. The problem is that the car hates to idle, and they have no idea why; they think it requires specific VAG software, but their machine couldn't access it. It trembles a lot and won't rev higher than 2000. I would be eternally grateful for any guidance you could provide.

I appreciate it. I have no clue how I am meant to view the filling hole beyond that foolish bonnet! I stand at a height of 5 feet 3 inches, amusingly enough.