nicebubby8

I replaced the rear disc and pads on my 2019 4 Series a few months ago, and the shoes appeared to be in excellent condition. A spray of brake cleaner will effectively clean the surface. As others have mentioned, you will need to adjust the shoes after fitting the new disc. Numerous YouTube videos exist that demonstrate how to adjust shoes. Disregard the section concerning the modification of the handbrake lever. The 'P' position merely secures the transmission, with no relation to the handbrakes.

The 2016 3 Series is equipped with the same manual handbrake as my 4 Series. Replacement is straightforward; however, it is essential to remember to engage the handbrake to prevent the vehicle from moving when replacing the front brakes. When changing the rear components, it is essential to secure the vehicle using wheel chocks, as the handbrake must be disengaged to remove the disc; otherwise, the shoes will obstruct the disc's removal. You wish to avoid the disruption caused by a vehicle in motion while work.

Initially, I would address any outstanding concerns you own. Subsequently, have the codes interpreted. This may promptly direct you to the correct item. for example My W251 climate control was malfunctioning. The item was scanned; it was brief and involved the replacement of a cable. Everything is satisfactory. Cognitive processes incur significant costs.

It seems you are speaking from experience.

My G20 is equipped with staggered wheels. I want to replace the front tires with non-runflat variants. The rear run-flat tires has enough tread and do not need replacement. Is it permissible to have a combination of non-run-flat tires on the front and run-flat tires on the rear?

Just wanted to give everyone an update the bimmer arrived yesterday! The driver phoned about half an hour before showing up to make sure the lorry could fit down my street The car looks great and matches the listing exactly.

I also contacted them to ask if I could come and see the car myself. They were perfectly fine with that and even offered to arrange a short test drive. After reading so many positive reviews though I decided to go with the delivery option instead, mainly for convenience. Fingers crossed it goes well!

Hey all, I’ve recently paid for a bimmer 3 series through Grimes Transport, a Belfast located transport and logistics company. They mentioned that they’ve recently opened a section for selling repossessed vehicles that were previously financed but reclaimed by lenders. They assured me that the car would be delivered to Norwich within a week. The price seemed quite fair but since it’s a repo car I’m just wondering does this all sound legit, or is it too good to be true? Appreciate any insight Cheers

Whoever conveyed the information is speaking utter nonsense. When oil is heated and comes into touch with the seals, the seals expand due to the heat. If the seal is deteriorating but not completely failed, increased temperature (due to prolonged operation) will cause the seal to expand, hence enhancing its sealing capability. A little quantity of oil might need a significant duration to combust in an exhaust, since it does not evaporate like water. If your seals are deteriorating but not completely failed, you may have seepage into the exhaust and potential pressure in the oil drain line, which might force oil back into the crankcase. Once the vehicle reaches operating temperature, the seals may improve somewhat in effectiveness. Additionally, regarding the PCV system, idling may produce increased smoke in some vehicles if the crankcase pressure exceeds acceptable levels. When idling, the PCV valve is actuated open by the vacuum generated by the manifold. This compels all gases from the crankcase breather tubes to be sent into the manifold for combustion (emission waste). While driving under boost, the boost pressure within the system forces the valve to close, directing the gases into the intake (post-MAF) and traversing the entire system. This process facilitates the combustion of a greater volume of blow-by as it passes through the turbo, down the pipes, through the intercooler, and subsequently past the throttle body into the manifold, resulting in a more complete combustion.

Consequently, the only remaining factor that may logically result in oil leaking past your valve cover gaskets and into the exhaust would be deteriorating turbo oil seals. The seals account for the smoke emanating from the rear, as well as the valve cover gaskets. When turbo seals deteriorate, oil typically leaks past the hot side, resulting in smoke from the tailpipes. Additionally, this failure can lead to increased pressure in the oil return lines, elevating the oil pressure within the block. Consequently, oil may be forced through the gaskets, resulting in leakage onto the exterior of the block or onto the exhaust manifold, which can produce smoke beneath the hood.

Autodoc on the internet. Utilize the application; it may be more economical.

That is the reason I mentioned the transfer case; I was under the impression that one cannot replenish the traction control fluid.

It is perplexing that they no longer provide a drain cap, since it complicates the process of extracting the oil. It is prudent to repeat the process in about one week if the condition was so severe. I hope that resolves the issue completely. I apologize for not seeing your previous post on the 21st.

My friend had a similar problem, occurring exclusively at certain speeds and gears, attributed to wrong tire sizing. The only consideration I had was that torque requirements in various gears and RPM ranges caused it to manifest at particular intervals.