stevenkeyte

No saved codes; I just hooked up a plug-in scanner (Autolink Autel AL519) that my company uses for the vehicles. On the other hand, I did notice that the MAP sensor measurement never budged from its ideal 100.0 kPa. It was stable throughout the tests, unlike the others. After looking it up online, the MAF sensor read 7.87 g/s, which looks a bit high. Does anyone think they could comply if asked? In any case, I might end up switching them out. Disqualify them.

The only thing I've been doing is utilising a BT OBD2 scanner with an iPhone app. Wasn't looking to spend any more money, but I suppose the more costly ones read more control units. Since this whole ordeal started, the water temperature has been quite unpredictable, and I still don't know why; if anyone has any insight into this, I'd greatly appreciate it. Fortunately, it now appears to run better, and the engine temperature indicator is less erratic. the current state of the issue posting is simply limp. After 18 months, if you remedy this, I could even begin to enjoy her! 😄

After doing smoke tests and vacuum tests at various locations throughout the system this evening, I'm relieved to report that everything is in working order. Similarly, I'm relieved to report that no leaks were identified in the air intake system. Changing the boost pressure sensor is the next thing I'll attempt. Can somebody tell me if trying to smoke the exhaust system was worth it? I'm at a loss as to what to do when neither the engine light nor the fault code can provide any guidance.

Greetings to everyone here, My vehicle is a W176 2014 2.1 cdi. fixed a DPF fault and an exhaust pressure sensor fault since I purchased it; still working through a few other difficulties. I was a heavy-vehicle mechanic for a while, but I left that field years ago. Lately, I've been thinking that maybe a boost fault is to blame when the car goes into limp mode at higher speeds and boost levels, albeit it happens less frequently while idling. I have examined the vacuum lines and air intake lines for signs of wear, but they appear to be in good condition. Last night, I conducted a smoke test. I started by checking the vacuum line that goes to the brake cylinder on the bulkhead (I forget its name), and it came back clear. Then, I moved the air intake unit to the area after the air filter to see if there was a problem. To my surprise, I discovered an oil leak that I had never noticed before. It was discovered that the leak was caused by loose screws on the rocker cover. After I snugged them all, I did a smoke test once more, and the leakage stopped. My question now is whether smoke should have been present there initially. I can't recall why smoke from the air intake pipe would wind up in the rocker cover; it's been so long since I played the game. After tightening the screws, I put the car through its paces on the road, but it still goes into limp mode when I apply too much boost pressure or rev too quickly. Has anyone ever smoke-tested anything before, so I'm not sure if there are certain points to test or if I should use a variety of pipes. Would be eternally grateful for any assistance.

I may have done a little too much research on this one, but it was well worth it! No one ever says this, but you have to change the gaskets every time you remove the throttle valve and the pipes that go with it. It is important to keep this in mind before beginning. Warning: I spent approximately 8.5 hours on the project (not counting the time spent on the water pump). Even while it's not great for a first-timer, it's better than paying the €2.2k that Mercedes asked for the identical job! 😅

I Achieved It, Yeah! This is the Worst Job Ever! At last got around to doing it, and holy cow, was I a swine! There are two points that are consistently overlooked: The housing for the fuel filter: the new authentic Mercedes component differs from the initial. For a long, I didn't know what to do with a few more mounting points here and a few missing ones there. Despite my best efforts, I was informed by the local dealer that it is now a "one-part-fits-all" setup. 🤦‍♂️

Money vs. time I'm reasonably handy and have everything I need, but I'm struggling to decide: Approximately how long will it take from beginning to end? Compared to simply paying a nearby garage (around €72/hr here)” I'm interested in hearing about actual completion times, tips, any problems encountered by anyone who has installed the oil cooler housing and/or water pump on the OM651. Thank you ahead of time!

«The Greatest Mystery» Since draining the oil and coolant from an oil cooler is a two-part process, I see no reason not to do the water pump and cooler simultaneously. My current line of inquiry is centred around — Is it feasible to accomplish this task on my own at home? In your experience, how long did it take? There are a lot of moving parts, but it seems like it's mostly just a matter of unbolting and rebolting.

Wanted Components Refurbished oil cooler set (with housing and gaskets) Renovated water pump Delivered for a total of €475—all authentic Mercedes parts from Germany. The irony is that the identical components were estimated to cost €880 in France! 🇩🇪💶

Now I'll give you an update (and ask anyone who has dealt with this before). With 15,000 kilometres on the clock since purchase, I should probably get another oil change soon anyhow. The coolant leak, which has been going on for the past month, is emanating from the area around the water pump. It appears to be very easy to order a new pump, so I have already done that. On the other hand, I've discovered a huge oil leak. The engine's undercarriage is a disaster, yet I'm not losing much oil. It appears that the oil cooler/filter housing is leaking, according to some camera-based investigation. My research suggests that this is a classic OM651 issue.

https://smartcarcheck.uk/car-specs

I found mine under the carpet in the trunk, so be sure to look in the spare tire well as well. A website named https://smartcarcheck.uk/car-check was actually something I found by accident. If you try your reg, it can bring up your specification details when I was exploring forums for my own code. Otherwise, entering your VIN into the parts system of a major dealer should yield the most accurate results. Which year and model is it?