Treeri

It occurs in our Sportage. Reverse from a parking space, shift to drive, and the camera remains active until a certain speed is reached, at which point the display reverts to its standard mode. To deactivate the camera, hit the parking camera switch located on the center console, presuming the Niro is active.

Thank you, everyone. I have completed almost 7,000 miles with it, and despite its 1.5-liter Renault-derived engine, it has performed rather well. The only significant problem was the thermostat, which I replaced with the timing belt, water pump, and auxiliary belt. The driver's seat base was split, so I procured one from Germany and installed it, which was rather straightforward. Replaced the analog temperature control with a digital version including a reset button. I had the vehicle remapped with an eco map, since 109 horsepower was insufficient. It has slightly increased torque and may get just over 76 miles per gallon on a journey, while the typical performance is in the upper 60s.

It is regrettable to soil it at this moment, Lol

Inside, I saw a vacuum cleaner and dust.

I used the morning to meticulously polishing my w246 B180. With 126,000 kilometers, it still presents well.

Understood. Thank you for your feedback; I will consider your suggestions.

I own the Toyo Open Country tires. Acceptable for an OEM, but want a superior handling tire that excels in wet situations. Significant rainfall is occurring in Southwest Florida. Resided here for three years with no intentions of traveling north.

My 2024 CX-90 S, which has over 14,000 kilometers, will soon need new tires. Does anybody have experience with the Pilot Sport 4 SUV tires?

You own a favourable agreement.

My inaugural concert was Pink Floyd at Wembley Stadium in 1988. Astounding. I subsequently observed them at the Knebworth Festival in 1990. They performed commendably in a live setting.

Greetings everyone, I acquired my inaugural Mercedes last year, which was also my first automatic vehicle. It is a 2022 A250. The salesman stated that he never manually activates the electric handbrake, instead permitting it to engage automatically when turning off the engine. In light of this counsel, I presently undertake the following actions when parking: 1. Halt the vehicle while remaining in Drive. 2. Depress the Park button located at the end of the lever. 3. Deactivate the engine, which immediately activates the electronic handbrake. However, I recently learnt that this will inflict harm by exerting stress on the gearbox and was told instead to: 1. Halt the vehicle while it remains in Drive. 2. Shift the lever to Neutral 3. Engage the electronic handbrake button manually. 4. Depress the Park button located at the end of the lever. 5. Subsequently, deactivate the engine. What are the opinions of all individuals? Could you provide any recommendations, please? I acknowledge that this may appear to be a little topic; nevertheless, as this is my first automobile, I lack the technical knowledge of automotive engineering to discern what is correct or incorrect, or what can lead to harm. Thank to everybody.

While X-Drive may seem advantageous, my experience with mostly older vehicles and self-maintenance has led me to be sceptical of superfluous technology, since it often incurs exorbitant repair costs when malfunctions occur. I do not need it.

I will undoubtedly maintain the maintenance. I have never had a car this young before 😄, but I consistently ensure my vehicles are properly maintained, whether I delegate the task to my technician or do it myself. Similar to others, I will be doing my oil changes more often than recommended. I have not been inactive, particularly with my studies, and I am somewhat attentive to the gearbox service. Thank you. 😊 My yearly mileage is around 6,000 to 8,000 miles, so I anticipate some time before incurring significant repair and maintenance expenses for the vehicle.

Deliberated extensively over my subsequent vehicle. Summary: Sold a Boxster and a 15-year-old Focus estate, and purchased a BMW F31 320i automatic. After owning and cherishing a 2005 987 Boxster for four years, I was somehow convinced to get a puppy. The two-seater was impractical, so I purchased a 2009 Focus estate for dog transportation, reserving the Boxster for weekends. After many months, the Boxster had hardly progressed, and components began seizing and failing. It is time to rectify it and proceed, regrettably. Which resulted in my possession of the inferior vehicle. Operated the vehicle for eighteen months until the expenses from the previous year and the monotony of ownership became burdensome. Examined a Mini Clubman Cooper S; aesthetically pleasing but rather diminutive. I have decided to focus on an F31 320i automatic and have increased my budget somewhat. Observed a vehicle equipped with X-Drive and 55,000 kilometres at a nearby Evans Halshaw dealership. Immediately identified an oil leak, subsequently determined to be from the fractured oil filter housing, but proceeded with a test drive that solidified my decision. I wanted one, but not that particular model, and I did not wish to purchase 13 warranties along with it. Thank you, Evans Halshaw. I waited patiently and saw a listing on Autotrader that seemed to be the ideal option. barely three pre-preparation photographs were available, but it had a commendable (Sport) specification with many additional features and barely 32,000 miles on a 68 plate. I placed a deposit while it was being prepared and continued to search, but I could not find anything comparable in terms of pricing and specifications. Purchased it three weeks ago, and I am enamoured with it. I was completely unaware of the significant improvement over the Focus, even after upgrading its suspension. Exceedingly pleasurable to operate. Permeates universally but will elevate its skirts and proceed with reasonable swiftness upon request. I have returned to the sentiment of having my first automobile, when one would seek any pretext to drive. It is necessary to make the payment immediately. 😆

Thank you; it clarifies my comprehension and addresses the gaps in my knowledge.

Greetings, I will be acquiring an EV6 later this year; it will be my first electric vehicle. I have conducted extensive research over the last several months, and although most of my enquiries have been addressed, I still have issues about battery preconditioning and its function. Kindly correct me if my remarks are erroneous. The preconditioning before to a DC rapid charge is intended to elevate the battery temperature to around 21 degrees, its optimal operating state. To facilitate rapid charging. However, if I have been driving for around two hours, would the batteries not already be sufficiently heated owing to the power being pulled from them? If preconditioning is not performed, the battery will heat up as the DC fast charger begins to charge it, perhaps reaching its optimal temperature within a few minutes of charging. I am certain I have overlooked something, which explains my bewilderment and my inquiry here. I have not yet conducted a test drive; this would be perilous since I would likely sign right thereafter. I will wait till fall when I will have more time to enjoy the experience. Thank you.

L.O.L

The car is now exposed to the rain. I will examine the possibility of doing just that later when it becomes evident. Thank you.

Thank you, however my Sportage is a model from 2014/2015. I submitted an email to KIA NSW on Saturday morning enquiring about the same issue, however I have not yet gotten a response and do not anticipate one until at least next week. I hope KIA will enhance the user manual to be more user-friendly for consumers.

I am seeking the fuse size used for the 2014/2015 Sportage Series II blade fuse, especially for the LH Cigarette Lighter (Power Connector 2) socket in the driver's cabin. Does it use a mini, micro2, micro, low profile, or other variant? The Owners Manual has no information on this matter, which seems to be one of KIA's best-kept secrets. I am experiencing much frustration and hoping for assistance. Thank you in advance.

I was uncertain whether to get the major bushes individually or the whole assembly, since the link component seemed to be intact, exhibiting no play. The rubber is not deteriorated, therefore we shall observe the outcome with simply the bushes replaced. Some individuals have difficulties in adjusting the camber despite having changed the top control arms; nonetheless, I prefer not to incur substantial expenses until absolutely necessary.

I got them changed last Sunday, and I hope it will enough. If not, I suppose the next step is to address the upper control arms. Additionally, I will get the whole component for the opposite front end tomorrow, so adjusting the tracking should not pose a problem. I am only focused on the angle of the steering wheel.