Treeri

I cannot recall it at the moment, but it was well below expectations. I first visited Kwik Fit, where I was informed that the components were seized; however, after the use of WD-40 and an impact wrench, they began to move. However, a difficulty arose with one of them when the lower arm was detached, necessitating the cutting of the bolt and the installation of a new one. The other remains the original bolt, but I suppose there is no need to replace it if it is functional? Are you referring to the lower ball joint located in the wheel carrier? Or those two in the inferior wishbone?

Indeed, I am aware. I am scheduled for alignment on Friday, so I will refrain from driving it until that time. I have purchased the additional track rod end from a nearby retailer and will have it tomorrow. I also purchased Moog, so we will see...If they last for a year or more, I am agreeable, since I must rectify the alignment promptly due to its poor condition since the acquisition of the vehicle. I replaced both bushings in the lower wishbones of the rear axle due to deterioration. Additionally, the upper wishbone, drop link, and lower rear control arm on the offside front have been replaced. Underwent an alignment thereafter, however they said that they could not alter the camber to the appropriate specifications. They were unable to address the front due to the track rod ends being seized. Consequently, I intended to repair the whole system on both sides and also had the bushings substituted in the wheel carriers at the rear axle, as I suspected they may be responsible for poor camber. I also changed all four tires with a pair of Pirelli * rated tires, so I do not want to squander them. I will seek alignment services elsewhere, and if they are similarly unable to assist, I will terminate my relationship with BMW directly.

It lost its alignment and was orientated 45 degrees to the right while proceeding straight. I will attempt to get it from a local retailer, possibly. I believe it is preferable to use Meyle or Febi manufactured in Germany, particularly since the nut resembles the original equipment component, rather than opting for Lemforder produced in Asia.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/249764758?iid=335384134347

The Febi track rod ends for the E70 have flanged nuts, similar to the originals; however, I recalled that the Moog component I previously installed was accompanied with a regular nut.I still own the previous one, therefore I might replace only the nut if it significantly impacts performance. Discovered a Lemforder component that has the same nut as the original; however, it is produced in Malaysia. Shouldn't these parts be manufactured in Germany?

I am reluctant to install the Apec track rod end due to my apprehensions over its reliability. I conducted prior research, and both Moog and Febi had favourable reviews. Possibly superior to Meyle, although inferior to Lemforder. Following the installation of the Moog track rod end and the completion of electrical repairs on the vehicle, the battery was disconnected. Subsequently, the steering wheel angle was calibrated by rotating the steering wheel left and right before reconnecting the battery. Upon departing this morning, the traction control indicator momentarily illuminated, causing me some concern; nevertheless, I continued driving since it was really a brief flash. Regrettably, upon halting at the subsequent traffic lights, I encountered a persistent signal and received a notification on the iDrive system indicating that the traction control and xDrive were disabled. The steering wheel rotated 45 degrees to the right, prompting me to conclude that I would return home. I used the alternative vehicle and proceeded to work immediately due to my tardiness; nonetheless, I am curious about the real events that transpired. I will return home in the evening, at which point I will do diagnostics and perform a visual inspection of the automobile. I believe the steering wheel angle calibration is not the issue, since I performed it after reconnecting the battery, resulting in the disappearance of the light and warning message. It did not manifest immediately upon activating the ignition today, but rather after a little interval. Is it possible that the issue lies with the track rod end assembly?

Greetings, The track rod ends of my X5 are immobilised, preventing adjustments to the tracking and alignment; thus, I have opted to buy replacement assemblies for both the left and right sides. I could not get the whole assembly produced by Febi, therefore I acquired the inner ends separately for the track rod ends. While the inner rods manufactured by Febi were readily available, there seems to be a supply constraint of the ends, resulting in difficulty in sourcing them. Ultimately, one vendor sent me a Moog instead, having first asked whether I was OK to that substitution. Moog seemed to possess comparable, if not superior, quality than Febi, hence I consented to acquire them. nonetheless, the second vendor delayed shipping the last item for about a week, and I have now got it; nonetheless, it is Apec.I had enquired about the stock availability of Febi components, but they did not respond and showed little interest in offering alternate options. I contend that Apec is inferior than Febi or Moog; nevertheless, I am unable to locate any evaluations or comments about Apec suspension or steering components. Has anybody among you ever installed an Apec track rod end? If affirmative, how do you see it? I have an appointment for wheel alignment on Friday; but, if I choose to return it, I will not be able to get another appointment in time, which causes me to pause at now.

Extremely apprehensive that it was unsecured and poised to detach. A rear suspension refurbishment was conducted at a local specialist in March.

Affirmative. Both are present, quite astonished that it was unsecured and poised to fall out, to be frank.

After seeing many movies, I was startled by their content. What is the required torque specification?

Yesterday, I traversed a very rugged route in my E90, and now the rear suspension exhibits a loose, imprecise feel accompanied by banging noises. This evening, I inspected the car's bottom and saw that the E12 on the lower arm was poised to detach. I have tightened it (just 20nm), and the banging has ceased. What is the appropriate torque specification, and what is its function? Is it related to the shocker?

I can do it in around three hours using Ista.

The engine rotates but fails to ignite. Do you believe it would be more advantageous to replace the engine?

Greetings, everyone. A few months ago, my 2005 BMW E61 3.0 200 kW ceased functioning, and I am uncertain if it is worthwhile to repair the engine or to get a replacement from the market. I suspected that my engine block cover gasket was either leaking or damaged. During aggressive acceleration, excessive pressure caused several fragile coolant pipes to rupture, resulting in coolant loss; however, normal driving did not lead to any failures or coolant leakage. The mechanic consistently asserted that the issue was unrelated to the block cover gasket, but I remain unconvinced. I entrusted my vehicle to a mechanic for diagnosis. He subsequently informed me that the situation had deteriorated; he discovered that the turbo vacuum pipes were disconnected. Upon reconnecting them, the engine began to rattle significantly while in motion, prompting him to shut off the vehicle. Following this, he was unable to restart the engine; it cranked but failed to ignite.

I just sold my 2015 Kia, which was 9 years old and still had its original battery. My wife's 2018 Astra is still functioning with its original battery without any problems. What is Mazda doing?

Thank you - that provides clear understanding. The variation in specifications for the same automobile across various markets might be perplexing. Currently, I am simply receiving battery warnings without experiencing any real failure to start. The automobile's original warranty has expired, but I have an extended warranty that is valid for one year since I purchased the car on July 24th. I am uncertain if Mazda will provide coverage for the battery. I have included a photograph of the battery for reference. It seems to be of Japanese origin.

The battery warnings have begun on my 2021 cx30, and upon inspection, I have seen that the original battery has a capacity of just 55AH and a cold cranking amp (CCA) rating of 355. Many individuals often discuss the idea of replacing the current battery with a higher-capacity AGM cell, which may have larger dimensions. What factors should I be cautious about regarding dimensions? Specifically, should I ensure that the tie down fits properly and consider replacing the battery insulating jacket? Which specific battery type, such as 005, 027, or 096, is compatible with the CX30 in the UK?

I have had both the 4th and 5th generation devices, and I have noticed that the blind track on the 5th generation is distinct from that of the 4th generation. However, the functionality of the blind cassette is relatively similar across the two generations. The blinds seem to have a similar form, however I cannot definitely confirm that they are of same size. I definitely wouldn't want to invest my money in it. After doing a search on the PartSouq Catalogue, I found that the component number for the 4th generation blind assembly is 85910F1000, whereas the part number for the 5th generation is 85940R2000.

https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/VCDS.php

Alternatively, might we exchange spouses?

VCDS is crucial in this particular situation. Wishing you success!

This information is valuable to me since I own both an EBike and an older iPhone. However, I much want the iPhone 15 Pro for the reasons you have mentioned. I was unaware of the Optimum setting. I would readily and enthusiastically agree to it without hesitation! I hope that future electric vehicles (EVs) are equipped with an Optimum setting.

I inquired of Microsoft Copilot AI: "Does charging the battery from 50 percent to 80 percent more often, rather than charging it less frequently from 20 percent, result in a decrease in battery lifespan?" The reaction implies the need for charging at shorter intervals. If somebody has a differing opinion, kindly provide the rationale behind it: The effect on battery lifespan is influenced by several variables, but on average, charging the battery more often from 50% to 80% is less detrimental than charging it less often from 20% to 80%. The reason is as follows: "Cycling Depth: Charging the battery from 20% to 80% utilises 60% of its capacity, whereas charging from 50% to 80% only utilises 30%." Increased depth of discharge cycles may lead to greater long-term wear. Heat is generated while charging from lower levels of charge, such as 20%, since there is a larger flow of electric current. High temperatures have a negative impact on the overall condition and performance of batteries. Regularly charging the battery to a shallow depth (e.g., from 50% to 80%) produces lower levels of heat. "Batteries undergo mechanical stress when they are being charged and discharged." Regular and superficial cycles reduce the mechanical strain on the cells. "Cell balancing: Certain contemporary electric vehicles employ cell balancing techniques during the charging process." Regularly charging the cell helps to preserve its equilibrium. Generally, it is more beneficial for battery life to charge from 50% to 80% more often. Nevertheless, it is crucial to adhere to the manufacturer's guidelines for achieving the most efficient charging methods.

I have successfully repaired the pump. Despite the presence of 400 bars of pressure at the rail, the engine fails to start. The fuel is not being delivered via the injector return. Is the DDE failing to provide the injectors with the signal to initiate combustion? What is the optimal voltage for the injectors?