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With my autos, I stick to the 6-or 12-month warranty. Despite only having 890 miles between their mot, one of them still managed to get an oil change, haha. It is currently sitting on the shelf and will do less business this year until I do something about it.

I tested the head gasket and it looks to be fine, however the piston rings appear to be a little loose since the engine is producing a little blue smoke. Other than the neutral to first synchro failing, so I can only get into first if I downshift, everything appears relatively okay, however the corrosion on the back sills is a bit of a worry. I am not going to change as it is very difficult to get a replacement GB. Overall, it seems like the two I'm observing have been well-kept. They are both spotless vehicles. Both of them have also undergone procedures. Some suggest 60–80,000, while BMW says never since it's "sealed for life." Someone changed the oil and filter in the gearbox of that one. You make a good point there as well. If it's symmetrical, I always say replace both of them. That one apparently had its back suspension (on both sides) changed, so I'll have to give it a further inspection. The fear of receiving a dud is probably all it is. Looking at the MOT report for one of them, I believe I saw that it had a single bulb failure. Like the n57, do the m57 chains rattle and exhibit slack when cold started? Regardless, I suppose it's worth checking, because I believe they've both had chains done as well. Beyond the usual things you'd look at in a regular automobile, is there anything else I should inspect carefully?

This automobile is at least 19 years old, so naturally, it will have its fair share of problems. The most important thing is to consider the previous owners and how well they took care of the vehicle. unless they managed it with very few resources. These two things are common in older vehicles.On the one hand, you may be quite conscientious and on the other hand completely careless. Look for gearbox service, differential service, etc. Those are the things I look for. On the flip side, if a coil spring cracked, did they change one or two, or all four? And so on.

I've read a number of articles on it. According to BMW, changing the oil every 20,000 miles is preferable than not changing it at all. So I tell myself. It would be replaced without delay in my opinion. And I highly recommend sticking to a 6-8k interval. It's frustrating that they couldn't find another approach to convince fleet purchasers 😞

Coming up on two hundred thousand miles, my 2002 E53 X5 powered by an M57 engine is still going strong. If you're looking for evidence of excessive oil and filter changes, a full BMW service is probably not the way to go. Just to entice fleet purchasers with the promise of reduced service costs over time, BMW claims 20,000 miles or two years, which is bad for the engine.

Regarding my desires, interests, and preferences in vehicles, I must admit that my past is a little of a mystery. Things changed, I was no longer involved, prices plummeted, I became quite broke, Elon went crazy, and I learned to prefer estates, but I almost bought an electric vehicle as a BIK business car. Then I became enamoured with the Octavia VRS 2020+. Beautiful vehicle, but the price tag was too high, and I kept wanting more power. It was difficult for me to let go of the desire for a Skoda dad vehicle after having an incredible experience driving a fully equipped 4WD Superb in the Arctic Circle two years ago. If I had infinite funds, I would still choose a C8 RS6 before any other car, sorry, but I've never been a big fan of BMW and have always considered myself more of an Audi man. The 320D–335D 3 Series Estates, meanwhile, had a certain allure for me. I don't know what it was, but the n57's engine problems, especially the spinning bearings, really freaked me out. To the point that I've turned a blind eye. According to what I've read, the m57 is a tank—very sturdy and resilient. That, I suppose, is what drew me to the 535Ds. They look like a great value, and they're strong and versatile enough to handle most situations. Similar to a maris piper. Make full use of it! In my previous position, I was typically putting 100-600 miles on the m4 or m5 every week, so I'm no stranger to highway driving. Currently, my weekly output is usually closer to 100. In the next few months, I intend to increase my weekly mileage to between 250 and 350 miles. This is when things become tough. I'd want to stay within my budget, so I won't spend a fortune. If it's not crazy for a 530-535D M57, I'd like to pay somewhere around $10,000. "If you can find one that looks good, at least has a fsh and is around 100,000 miles, you should be doing good," my brain assures me, and I'm starting to believe it. However, my knowledge of BMW engines is limited. I'd prefer to have it running and not sitting in a garage full of expensive BMW components, even though I've changed the belt and done some other light maintenance on a 1.6TDCI. Apparently they have a problem with the turbo, glow plugs need to be changed, and the rear air suspension compressor can be a bit of a joke. I've seen a couple on the market, but I have no idea what to look for beyond the essentials, like a timing chain that has been done, oil, gearbox oil and any necessary repairs. Inspect the tires for smoke during cold starts, uneven wear, brand, and tread depth. Will rusting occur on these? What I mean is, would you recommend these guys for £100 to cure your back pain or other structural issues? If I were thinking about it, would it be a good idea to have a BMW expert have a look at the car? Although I'm originally from Bristol, I've seen a couple for sale throughout the nation, including one in the Bournemouth/Southampton area (Sea = rust) and another close to Oxford. Could you suggest some guys from those locations to have a look? I aim to get as much knowledge as possible since I enjoy delving into things. Oh my, that's just a bunch of irrelevant details. Apologies if I lost you at RS6, but I appreciate you taking the time to read this.

Your assistance in determining the proper tyre pressure for my 2019 E-Class Cabriolet A238 E220d 19 Plate is greatly appreciated. I am quite grateful for your assistance in settling this issue. Much obliged.

https://www.continental-tires.com/products/bicycle/

Choosing a pressure level in the middle of the suggested and maximum range is typically what we suggest. Never fill a tyre to more than the maximum pressure warning written on the side. Start with a little more pressure than advised, and if the ride quality is compromised, you can lower the pressure. It's better to err on the side of caution. Get in touch with an EPC specialist if you suffer from obsessive-compulsive disorder; they will be able to inform you which sticker is right for your vehicle identification number (VIN). Additionally, I recommend ordering the sticker from MB once you get the right P/N.

I have 20-inch wheels and Airmatic suspension. I think it would have ridden better on the 19s, so I would have gone with those instead.

Excellent guidance.

When transporting four people or more, the distinction solely applies to the back tires. I would recommend starting at 39 and seeing how you do; if you feel the need to modify upwards, you can always go to the other chart that contains 42. I usually leave the psi constant on my W213 20s, even though the suggested pressure is 35, since I seldom have a full load and don't want to bother changing it and because I haven't seen any negative effects. However, I did read that you should increase it by 2 psi.

Sadly, it's not only a sticker with the stresses watered down.

You could also find the right information in the handbook.

My fuel filler cap tyre pressure label is gone after I just upgraded to an E Class Cabriolet A238 E220d 19 Plate. Is there a way I can verify if the photo that someone generously posted to a Facebook group matches the one that the dealership has provided? I own 275/35R19 in the front and 245/40R19 in the rear.

😍

Get behind the wheel after disconnecting the MAF sensor. There are no easier choices than it 👍.

I am really grateful for your response. I will look into your recommendations and report back here with my findings.

Members here should really cut less on taking their automobiles to so-called "specialists"—you know, the people who work for BMW and do things like prepare tea for two weeks and install a BMW roundel on your garage door—instead. According to this sequence, it's one of three things. Problem with EGR: it sticks while adjusting the speed at highway speeds; solution: clean the EGR valve. Unplug the MAF and take a drive; if the problem disappears, clean the old MAF or replace it; the engine becomes more dependent at lower cruising speeds. You'll feel like you're driving over mild rumble strips when the torque converter locks up. These are the ones that come up before roundabouts on dual carriageways. The torque converter locks at about 40-60, which is a more expensive spot to correct and is more commonly caused by an egr or MAF problem.

There's this weird juddering or stuttering sound coming from my 2009 E61 520D that started between 40 and 60 miles per hour. It seems to be engine-related rather than drivetrain-related because it only occurs at a constant cruising speed within that range; there are no problems while accelerating or decelerating. Even after a complete service by a nearby BMW specialist—who also cleaned and replaced the injector seals—the problem persists. Is anyone else familiar with this? My go-to garage has run out of ideas, so I'm crossing my fingers that someone has seen this before.

For the record, I figured I'd add some further information. For whole panel removal, I discovered the plastic surround around the load cover mounting point on the left side of the boot to be the key. The only thing keeping it in place is a single pin clip, so you can easily take it out.

Appreciate the letter Coming from an M6 with the B&O system, I was likewise let down by the Burmester system, therefore I'm taking a same path as you. May I kindly request further information on the process of removing the boot trim in order to reach the current Burmester amplifier? I would much appreciate your assistance since I was able to remove the floor very simply but then ran into a wall. Thank you

To the left, you can make trace the yellow wire's path beneath the trim; I had to press on it a little bit to get it to emerge where I needed it. Easy as pie. Everything is finished now; the only identifying feature is how well it sounds.

After sliding it out with the help of the little plastic lever on top, you'll need to remove a couple of small levers and unscrew two torx bolts in order to access the area behind the live.

Easily removable fusebox (on the right)—no snap-out trim required. Comes with a removable sound chamber.