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The CX-70 PHEV has undergone two recalls for software modifications. We have accumulated 10,000 kilometres on our 2025 model since January. We appreciate it; it operates well, the cabin is exceptionally quiet, and it averages 50 miles per gallon since its deployment. The sole issue is a clunking noise in the rear brakes after initiating movement from a complete stop. The seals on the back door permit the ingress of dust. Both issues have been reported, and Mazda is addressing the solutions. 47,000 appears to be an appropriate figure for depreciation. I would ensure it is meticulously inspected prior to acquisition and have the oil analysed and replaced beforehand.

I am presently seeking a new vehicle for my wife and have been considering the CX-70 PHEV for some time. Are there any concerns regarding the vehicle, such as common issues or similar matters? What is the general consensus regarding the vehicle? I admire its appearance and need additional information from current owners. Has the used market for this vehicle declined? My local Mazda dealership offers several certified pre-owned Premium Plus models with 5,000 kilometres for $47,000, which appears to be a low price. Is this accurately positioned in the valley, or does it appear strangely low? I reviewed the Carfax for one of the vehicles, and it appears it has been taken to the dealership twice for computer-related services. Is this a matter of concern?

Indeed, I perform that action, and regeneration is successfully completed; but, it appears to occur more frequently than necessary.

Direct excerpt from the E Class handbook: "Vehicles equipped with a diesel particulate filter: if the vehicle is predominantly operated over short distances, malfunctions may arise during the automatic regeneration of the diesel particulate filter." This may result in fuel accumulation in the engine oil, potentially leading to engine failure. Consequently, if you regularly drive small distances, you ought to undertake a 20-minute journey on a freeway or rural road at least every 500 kilometres. It is essential to sustain a continuous speed, avoiding stop-and-go driving in urban areas; thus, the preference for motorways or rural roads.

My ISTR would regenerate approximately every third or fourth tank full, translating to a distance of between 1,500 and 2,000 miles; but, as I sold the car 11 years ago, my memory may be inaccurate. Additionally, my everyday journey occurred on rapid A- and B-roads, which may have facilitated more frequent regenerative braking without my awareness.

It must have performed this action numerous times across 181,000 miles; otherwise, it would be completely obstructed. The sole indication that my engine is regenerating is a somewhat elevated idle speed (100 to 150 rpm) and a subtly rougher exhaust sound during vigorous acceleration. May be easily overlooked.

In 18 years and 181,000 miles, I have never observed our vehicle performing a regeneration. Original DPF, albeit temperature and pressure sensors have been updated over the years.

How frequently does the DPF in your OM642 regenerate? Mine appears to occur quite regularly.I have not verified, but I would estimate approximately every 300 miles. I have not been engaging in long-distance activities recently, which will not be beneficial. Does anyone know the average mileage between regenerations? Does anyone have an explanation for why it may regenerate excessively? The DPF fill levels are within typical parameters, and there are no defects detected on the ICarsoft. I have heard that intake air leaks can lead to excessive regenerations. Is there anything else? I am not really concerned, as she is already driving proficiently without any concerns; yet, it would be reassuring to have confirmation. Thank you in advance.

A significant endorsement for trusting the dipstick. Examine it after the vehicle has been stationary for an extended period.

The correct method for measuring oil involves ensuring the engine is warm, the vehicle is parked on a flat surface, the engine is turned off, and the measurement is taken after a five-minute interval.

Rely on the dipstick, disregard the sensor. The dipstick provides a tangible measurement; unless the tube is damaged or the dipstick is not fully inserted, it cannot yield inaccurate results. As previously stated, ensure that the oil has fully drained into the sump prior to measurement. Both of my vehicles have 230,000 miles, and there is no issue with the oil taking an extended period to drain into the sump.

Given that the engine has 200,000 miles, the oil may require a longer duration to return due to the accumulation of sludge and other debris in the drainage channels. Consequently, the drainage process may exceed one hour, contingent upon the internal state of the engine. Maintain the fluid level at three-quarters when cold, and fill it to the maximum when cold after standing overnight to avoid any complications.

After an hour, I observed that the oil level is slightly below the minimum threshold. It perplexes me that after being left overnight, it appears approximately three-quarters full, although it is not saturated with oil; only a faint outline is visible. This is the appearance after one hour of leaving it. Completely devoid

If your iDrive indicates 3/4 and your dipstick also reads 3/4 when cold, then the iDrive is accurate.

No concerns, I will reassess in thirty minutes. Is the Idrive typically precise? The vehicle has accumulated 200,000 kilometres, which raises my concern regarding the functionality of the sensor or a potential malfunction.

Furthermore, do not refuel your vehicle with oil immediately after it has been operated. Allow all oil to return to the sump for approximately 30 minutes, then fill to the maximum level. Performing this action immediately after using the engine sometimes leads to overfilling, as the maximum level may be reached while an additional 4 to 5 litres remain above the sump, yet to drain down.

As the vehicle operates, oil circulates to the upper engine components, including the turbocharger, resulting in a decrease in the sump level, where the dipstick is located. After around 30 minutes, the oil returns to the sump and registers a higher level on the dipstick. entirely typical

My Idrive indicates that my oil levels are three-quarters full, although the dipstick displays nearly empty when the engine is somewhat warm. When completely cold, the dipstick indicates around three-quarters full; nonetheless, the oil level is not as high as I would prefer. Is the Idrive trustworthy? Why is there no oil on the dipstick when the engine is slightly warm? I am apprehensive about overfilling, hence I find myself at a crossroads. Certainly, the IDrive will inform me if I am indeed running short. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I cannot recall the size of the tips that fit over pipes when removing the old tips.

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I will determine if I can locate them.

Do you own images or a link for your 330d? Thank you very much

I intend to replace the original tailpipe trims with more aesthetically pleasing options, potentially featuring M emblems. My vehicle has twin tips, but they are not the 340i variants on either side, if that clarifies my intent.

I believe he refers to converting the exhaust from a single pipe with dual tips to dual pipes, one at each end of the vehicle, rather than merely replacing the tailpipes.

If you seek advice, visit AliExpress; I have procured two sets from there, one for my F31 330d and another for my M4.Additionally, my 640d, in fact.