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My husband possesses one of these, yet it lacks your Airmatic suspension and only features the air rear suspension. His vehicle resembles your photograph. Would his stature align with your comfort preferences? Inform me, and I shall contact him to retrieve the ruler...

If someone possessing an X218 full AIRMATIC (front and rear) could measure from the center of the Mercedes emblem/wheel hub vertically to the wheel arch lip, it would be greatly appreciated. Optimal readings would be those of Comfort and Sport.

Revision: I have now recalibrated using the superior centre-of-wheel-to-arch technique, ensuring that wheel/tyre dimensions do not influence the comparison. In Airmatic Sport mode on a flat surface, I receive: Front dimensions: 390 mm by 390 mm Back: 370mm / 370mm

I sincerely appreciate it. That is an excellent recommendation. It is logical for the purpose of comparison. I will request individuals to employ that technique instead, after I have obtained new measurements.

If individuals were instructed to measure from the center of the wheels to the arch (which is the standard practice in the industry), the specific wheel and tyre combination would be irrelevant.

Greetings everyone, could someone possessing a CLS X218 AMG Line equipped with the original 19” AMG wheels and complete AIRMATIC system provide a comparison of ride-height measurements with my vehicle? My vehicle is a 2017 CLS 350d Shooting Brake, featuring the original staggered 19-inch configuration: Front: 255/35 R19 Rear: 285/30 R19 Measured on a flat surface from the lower metallic edge (NOT from the base of the tire) of the alloy straight up to the wheel-arch lip: Comfort: Front 670 mm, Rear 640 mm Sport: Front 650 / 650 millimetres, Rear 630 / 630 millimetres If anyone possesses an identical wheel/tyre configuration, could you kindly assess yours in Comfort and Sport utilising the same technique and share the four measurements? I am especially curious if the measurements of approximately 670 mm in the front and 640 mm in the rear in Comfort mode are standard for the X218. I appreciate it!

The penultimate box located on the left side of the VIN label on the driver's side B-pillar. It constitutes a dual-character code. J3, UE, or G7 The extended paint code is JAYCWWA.

Indeed, it is located on the chassis plate. I believe it is the penultimate box.

Greetings, esteemed colleagues, I have explored all the recommended links on our website for the paint code, but they all appear to be outdated. I am in pursuit of that for the 2012 Mondeo Panther Black Metallic. I would be immensely grateful, as my vehicle was damaged by an individual who simply departed. What truly pains me is that I have possessed it for a decade, and until now, it was completely flawless. Is the code located on the vehicle at any point, as I am aware that BMWs (apologies for referencing this brand!) display it atop the suspension turret.

The auxiliary battery must also be depleted.

No battery can endure remaining depleted for such an extended period. Substitute it.

As previously stated on several occasions. OP, is there any indication of rodent presence or destruction? 👍

Are you acquainted with anyone possessing one of those highly beneficial jump packs? If not, those are indeed more economical than a new battery if purchased for future applications or resale. A depleted battery is the Achilles' heel of every contemporary Mercedes.

I have attempted using a different fully charged battery. However, it remains unchanged. I am uncertain whether using the small Skoda to jump it will be beneficial, but it may be worth attempting. Merely concerned about investing in a new battery if it is indicative of a more significant problem.

If the battery has been depleted for more than a year, a new battery will be necessary.

It is likely your battery; have you attempted to jump-start it?

Have you utilised a verified functional battery? Uncertain about the definition of a "full repair" concerning a battery? Having remained dormant for more than two years, the battery may lack the capacity to retain charge and deliver sufficient current. Merely indicating an acceptable voltage does not guarantee its proper functionality; a comprehensive load test is required.

Greetings, everyone. My vehicle has been inoperable for approximately two years because of a significant fissure in the turbo housing. I have finally managed to replace the turbo as I desire to have it operational again. I removed the battery and performed a complete repair and recharge since it was depleted. The engine was reassembled and tightened, yet when the ignition was activated, there was no cranking, and the dashboard lights went dark. I opted to examine the starter since it resembled a short circuit and was nonfunctional (tested outside the vehicle with the battery). Consequently, I purchased a new one. The same occurrence persists. Considering the vehicle was operated approximately a year ago to relocate it to a more suitable location. I am unable to comprehend the potential causes of this electrical failure when I attempt to initiate it. It reverts to its standard state when the key is restored to the ignition on position. Any assistance would be immensely valued as I am presently operating a rather uninspiring Skoda Roomster diesel.

interesting info

Useful to hear from somebody who's actually gone through the return side of it Buying is one thing. Finding out what happens when you want your money back is usually the real test

I actually had to return one I'd bought through Mcerlane Logistics nothing mechanically wrong with the car. Had some unexpected family stuff happen shortly afterwards and keeping it just wasn't sensible anymore. I contacted them expecting the return to be a headache, but they were pretty understanding. Collection was arranged within a couple of days and once the vehicle had been picked up and the necessary details checked, the refund was processed. Definitely not the outcome I'd planned when buying the car, but I was relieved it didn't turn into an argument

The Kodiaq arrived late last night. I'm not getting carried away just because it's shiny though. It's booked into my mechanic for a proper inspection.

Exactly, at the time it felt like the end of the world. Two days later I felt a bit stupid for panicking 😂

Transport delays happen. It's how they deal with them that matters.

I'll give a slightly less perfect experience, mine was supposed to arrive on a Friday and didn't. Got a phone call saying their lorry had been held up and delivery would be pushed back a couple of days. Won't lie, that's when my imagination started going. You've paid for a car you've never seen, delivery day comes and suddenly there's a delay... every scam story you've ever read starts running through your head. They emailed me as well and kept me updated, but I was still nervous until I actually saw the transporter coming down the road. It did arrive when they rearranged it for though.