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Inconsistent outcomes for this code. One source indicates a blower regulator. Another state's driver airbag. Has anyone experienced this firsthand?

Prior to publishing here. Returns solely the code, excluding its true definition.

Exhibited intelligence. The majority indicate airbags, and the initial result recommends inputting your VIN for further information. I presume you have completed this task.

I anticipated a thoughtful response.

The very first result on Google. Exhale.

I checked for any outstanding recalls and found the following code: 0032790300. Can anyone verify the purpose of this? I have not received any correspondence regarding this matter. The most recent recall I completed was the full replacement of the EGR cooler in 2022. The vehicle is a 2012 640D, equipped with a N57 engine.

He has not been the Stig for 16 years, however this fact must be highlighted in every video or article in which he appears.

At least two YouTubers have purchased one in recent months.

He has undoubtedly conducted thorough research, and they have nearly accurate data. I was somewhat disheartened to be informed near the conclusion of 1990 that Tom Walkinshaw did not wish for me to continue with the race team. I served as Chief Engineer for five years with a team that secured multiple world championships, including two Daytona 24 Hours and two Le Mans titles. He aspired to lead the creation of a road vehicle. Only in retrospect do you recognise the privilege of developing what was then the world's fastest road car. I had only 14 months to transform a few rudimentary prototypes into a vehicle approved for production. I acquired substantial knowledge over that period, and I doubt I will ever receive a superior company vehicle again. Although a professional racing driver established the Nurburgring lap record, I had the opportunity to drive the car home the same day. We consumed brunch in Germany and returned to Banbury shortly after lunch. An authentic, legitimate road vehicle.😁

Excellent video; I like viewing it. Thank you for sharing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gM8c-3Fm5o

It is a Jaguar.

https://www.dclass.co.uk/bmw-i8-wheel-retrim

Indeed, that is considerably more intricate than a conventional wheel. It remains valuable to investigate trim companies, as they possess the necessary equipment and expertise to address the issue. Clearly beyond my capabilities.

I had contemplated that; however, the i8 wheel features a metal insert at its centre, rendering this alternative unfeasible. By the way, the image is not of my steering wheel, but rather one from a new i8.

Re-trimming would be a more economical and aesthetically pleasing alternative, superior to a slip-on cover, and may be executed independently if one possesses sewing skills. I re-trimmed my E90 wheel, which incurred a cost of £8 and required several hours, resulting in aching fingers due to the absence of a thimble. The outcome is an aesthetically pleasing wheel devoid of glossy leather.

Thank you, however I have already utilised a steam cleaner, and it has not removed any stains. The vehicle was acquired two years ago with 15,000 miles and is currently eight years old, having been utilised infrequently. However, I am aware that the former owner was a sophisticated, older woman who likely used considerable amounts of hand lotion, which I suspect is the cause of the issue.

Utilise a steam cleaner to effectively penetrate the leather, which should eliminate most, if not all, contaminants. If this is unsuccessful, consider using a steering wheel cover, as leather steering wheels tend to get fairly slippery with time.

Greetings, Have any BMW i8 owners experienced issues with their steering wheel becoming excessively glossy and slippery? I enquire because I have attempted to clean it with numerous leather cleaning agents, but to no effect. The leather appears to possess a glossy finish throughout. The former owner was a woman, leading me to presume that the surface was coated in hand cream; nonetheless, nothing seems to remove what appears to be present, rendering it increasingly hazardous to drive due to its slipperiness. Since 1975, I have had numerous vehicles, yet I have never encountered a steering wheel as slick as this one. Assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I attempted to insert it myself, achieving a depth of approximately 20mm. I believed I had resolved the issue, as the two components engaged, resulting in a slight gap on one edge; however, they remained misaligned, preventing the shock from sliding into the knuckle. I subsequently summoned assistance. Despite inclement weather, I dedicated a total of four days to the task, with three of those days focused on reattaching the shock to the vehicle. The mechanic required less than 15 minutes to install it onto the car, with the majority of that time spent repositioning the driveshaft into the CV joint.

I have identified two reasons for my inability to align the shock absorber and knuckle: firstly, I installed the spring incorrectly, with the flatter end positioned against the top mount, a distinction that is challenging to discern; secondly, and more significantly, the CV joint had dislodged. This occurred when I applied pressure to the wishbone/knuckle to remove the shock absorber. The hub/disk remained stationary, indicating it was still engaged, although it had retracted sufficiently to prevent the alignment of the two components. Ultimately, I enlisted the assistance of a retired mechanic, marking the first occasion in 40 years of automotive repair that I sought external help. I was astonished by the considerable effort he exerted to properly reengage the CV joint into the coupling by the differential. It took him approximately 10 minutes, and it protruded by about 2 to 3 inches. Subsequently, he loosened the drive shaft bolt securing it to the hub using a substantial impact driver. This was intended to enable the hub to be depressed sufficiently to connect the knuckle with the shock absorber, allowing the hub to slide on the driveshaft splines rather than dislodging it from the CV joint once more. Subsequent to all that, it was effortless to insert the shock into the knuckle. I decided to document this in case someone else has the same difficulty in the future. I have utilised computers and the internet since the 1990s and previously worked in IT; yet, I have been unable to locate anyone online experiencing the same difficulty.

I recall this being a source of frustration during my experience. I believe I sufficiently depressed the knuckle for the strut to rest atop it, albeit at an incorrect angle for insertion into the hole, and subsequently employed a wooden piece with the jack beneath it to elevate the bottom section of the strut until alignment was achieved. Required several attempts and considerable exertion!

It is acceptable. Reviewed several videos prior to commencing the task, but found them unhelpful for reassembly. I have discovered another instance, and as illustrated in this screenshot, the angle between the knuckle and the shock is markedly different, hence increasing my confidence in aligning them. Currently, it is dark, and there have been two days of rain; therefore, I will attempt again in three days.

Greetings, I appreciate your response. The problem lies not in elevating the hub/knuckle to engage with the shock, but in compressing the shock/spring while installed on the vehicle to align the top mounting hole of the knuckle beneath it. I am experiencing significant difficulties compressing the shock, and even when I succeed, I cannot bring the top of the knuckle close enough to the car to engage the shock. I removed the shock absorber, but the angle of the knuckle, as observed from above where the shock connects, suggests that there may be an issue.