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Please inform us of your progress.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Residue-Free-Equipment/dp/B00KPUBO2S/ref=asc_df_B00KPUBO2S?linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333274991042&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=41234&hvtargid=pla-4583932738994309&msclkid=3601442e058711a180352d9e1e7ddd6a&th=1&_encoding

My seatbelt is completely unbuckled, so I'll give this a go. Although I do have some WD40 Specialist Fast drying contact cleanser on hand, I believe it mostly serves to remove grime and not lubricate the surface as the silicone you suggested.

Much obliged. Amazon is delivering tomorrow, and I'm experiencing the same problem. Issue resolved in under a minute. 🤞

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000297TQM?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4&th=1&_encoding

On my 2002 E53, I experienced issues with the belts not retracting. He couldn't believe it when he tested it on an M8s belt after finding an idea online; he was even more amazed when it worked on another belt. After you fully extend the belt and lightly spritz it with this, feed it in and out; it should begin to function. Your apparel will also remain unmarked.

Greetings, Gentlemen! The hand-operated seat belts are integrated into the seat in my 2018 4 Series convertible. Problem: The passenger side seat belt won't retract. Opening the unit is not working for me. Nothing has turned up, and I have searched high and low. None of the fasteners are there. How can I repair the malfunctioning front seat belt retractor? Can I open the seat all the way?

Salutations, Everyone! In my 2018 convertible 4 Series, the seat belts are built into the seat and are operated manually. Issue: The seat belt for the passenger side won't retract. How do I open the unit? I have looked everywhere but have come up empty-handed. There aren't any fasteners. The front seat belt retractor is broken; how can I fix it? Must I fully open the seat?

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Good grief. I'm currently located in Connecticut.

In addition, your "OldFart" would be useful to me at the age of 73. Tell me where you're at.

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In addition to this '25CX30,' I also own a '73 RX2,' a '79 RX7, and cars in general are my pastime. My 2013 Focus Titanium hatchback, which has clocked just over 49,000 miles, is being replaced by this.

In case anyone was wondering, the garage has indeed identified the oil cooler as the source of the problem. Grainy sand filled the space within the water jacket and all the pipes that had been inserted into it when we removed it. Plenty, not just a little. The result is that the cooler has burst due to the buildup of pressure. From what I can see, it has nothing to do with the engine and is neither magnetic nor metallic. I am familiar with the car's history up to the last year's 30,000 miles, during which time it has had the oil changed and a serpentine belt installed, but other than that, it has been completely unaltered. Nothing has been done with the coolant system. Is there anybody who can guess what it could be? Although it's strange that it went 30,000 miles before exhibiting difficulties, one reasonable hypothesis is that a radweld similar to Bars Leak may have been added (too many times) prior to my ownership. My only other theory is that someone or something was deliberately added to the coolant system, but nobody other than people I trust has been near the vehicle. Is anyone else thinking about possible other explanations? I am grateful.

Wow, that's dark! I've never heard of that before, but I can see how it may be useful. Surprising things might happen at any time!

How long has the car been on the market? Placing oil in the expansion tank is a typical tactic for would-be purchasers looking to lowball sellers.

Definitely, the transmission won't stay sealed forever. The Mercedes manual specifies how often you should change the filter and fluid. Even if these have evolved, they are still necessary.

Since I checked the level two weeks ago and added more, I can say with certainty that the coolant is not old. But it's good to know. We'll make sure it's not gearbox oil; if that doesn't work, we'll go on to the oil cooler and cross our fingers. In any case, we need to get out of here soon. I am grateful.

I understand. Now we know the combustion chambers are fine thanks to the compression test the garage ran, but they didn't mention anything about the oil-water leak or the damaged block or head. Is there a way to examine the water jacket for leaks now that it's mostly disassembled? It could be done by reattaching the water line to the block and then testing the pressure, but then water would leak out of the oil cooler, making it even more difficult to pinpoint the exact location of the leak. In the event that the oil cooler comes up and checks out, the only method to determine is by looking at the head gasket.

It's helpful to know that. Curiously, no emulsion is visible. What I mean when I say the expansion tank is full of oil is that it is filled with thick, black stuff that looks like motor oil. There is absolutely no creamy emulsion. This is the main reason why I believe it happened just a little distance before the "check coolant" alert appeared during startup. So far, I've come to the conclusion that the expansion tank is the uppermost section, and that the oil cooler "skimmed off" the oil that floated to the top when it split. We only do short journeys, therefore the engine got switched off. Because of this, the rivers are rather empty. This is just my current best guess, however it could be completely wrong.

Hmm... Just so you know, I remember hearing something about how the problem of "very old coolant breaking down into an oily mess" might be fixed by simply replacing the coolant. N.B. That information is anecdotal, so I cannot in any way verify it. However, I seem to recall that a cooling system sealant ingredient had previously been used and could have contributed to the symptoms. Whatever you decide, best of luck, and do report back to us when you have solved the mystery.

A cylinder head failure across the same channels would cause the same symptoms as a crack in the block or cylinder head between the coolant and lubrication channels, in my opinion.Both of those things can go wrong with a cylinder head and it will still be perfectly OK as far as combustion pressure is concerned.

As an aside Because I experienced the same issue with an old dump truck that we used for cleaning out our stables, I can say with certainty that EP gearbox oil does, in fact, emulsify to a cream color when combined with water. Additionally, while "EP" lubricants are specifically designed for gearboxes, it seems that the majority of normal gearboxes do not operate under pressure. My guess is that if a gearbox had a heat exchanger, the pressurized coolant would exit the cooling system much more quickly than the gearbox lubricant would enter it.

I'm at a loss for suggestions because we've pretty much covered everything.