KOOLCAR

I apologise if my information is outdated, but it seems like you have already replaced nearly everything that could electrically fix a "crank but no start" problem. Have you ever, for fun, attempted to start the engine by spraying it with starter fluid and seeing if it would run while you kept spraying it into the intake? Is the timing of this engine correct? Have you checked it with a compression test?

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It seems like you're saying that the ECU isn't pulsing the injectors properly. Is this something you've confirmed with a noise test? I take it that you mean the engine is turning over, but won't start. Instead of hurling parts at the vehicle, attempt diagnosing it. First things first: check the wiring if you're saying the injector noise test doesn't work.

The auxiliary battery was replaced two years ago with a new one from Mercedes.

Greetings everyone, I possess a 2003 E320 CDI W211, and I am experiencing the following problems: Initial instance, battery depletion during the nite When the ignition is activated, a particular light illuminates regardless of the light switch's setting; subsequently, if I switch the light control to auto or on, the driver's side remains illuminated while all other lights flicker, including the interior dome lights, footwell lights, and steering wheel control lights, which is quite bothersome. I continually experience the battery convenience features being disabled, only to revert to enabled intermittently. The blower activates and deactivates in sync with the battery convenience alert. The parking sensors are malfunctioning. The rear windscreen wiper is inoperative. When I press the button to access the area of the CD changer, it fails to open; I suspect I do not possess a CD changer, yet the door remains unresponsive. My radio was nonfunctional until I performed a fibre optic bypass on the module in the trunk; it now operates perfectly. No indication of a red battery light or any alerts! The crimson battery indicator illuminated briefly while I had the heater at maximum, wipers activated, radio playing, and lights engaged. New primary battery with charging at 13.8/14 volts during operation. Could you provide any suggestions? I appreciate it.

I comprehend that this is accurate. It has the capability to LOCK autonomously when you depart, yet it cannot UNLOCK upon your return without utilising the keyfob or making contact with the door handle, as Etex clarifies.

My door was severely dented, but the mot assured me that it would not fail as long as it could be opened and shut correctly.

It seems like you've been actively investigating the no-comms issue. I saw that you discovered some questionable splices beneath the glovebox; would it be possible for you to provide a picture of them? It could be helpful for someone here to see what you're facing in order to understand what's happening.

Same as #2 - 20,000 miles or two years, whichever is greater. Getting that in writing from Kia is the only surefire way. You make a financial contribution, etc.

Dash board data are only meant to be used as a guide; in order to acquire exact figures, one must calculate mpg fill up to fill up.

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You did request ways to reverse it, so I guess that counts as my defence 😁

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Could you perhaps unscrew the nut by placing a breaker bar end on the floor, fitting a socket into the nut and then quickly turning the engine over?