EtherealWanderer

You're welcome.

Have you attempted to substitute the front wheel sensors? I recently changed one of my components, which seemed outwardly intact and undamaged; yet, after the replacement, everything has returned to normal functionality.

This is the code for the mass air flow sensor.

I modified it a week ago.

A brief update I have completed that, nevertheless the vehicle remains unchanged, save from the illuminated check engine light.

Is it advisable to detach the sensor and operate the vehicle in that manner?

I am experiencing an issue with my vehicle, which features a N57 engine, F07 chassis, and ZF8HP transmission. Initially, upon purchasing the car, it functioned optimally; however, after one month, a problem with the diesel particulate filter (DPF) emerged, indicating that it was clogged. Over the course of three months, the vehicle's performance deteriorated progressively. Subsequently, I removed the DPF and executed an EGR delete via software. Following this, a diagnostic message indicated a malfunction in the swirl flaps actuator, and the vehicle continued to exhibit suboptimal performance. I then deleted the swirl flaps and reprogrammed the system accordingly.The message for the flaps has disappeared, yet my car continues to exhibit sluggishness. After four months and a Stage 1 tune, there has been no improvement. Additionally, the transmission occasionally shifts with a jerk, and during upshifts, it seems to restrict the engine's full power, causing the vehicle to lurch backward, which is peculiar.I am now receiving the MAF sensor code. Signal deviation is very high at idle, and I am receiving a transmission code related to the RPM sensor, as well as a high fuel pressure pump code. However, the vehicle starts without issue and idles normally; there is no problem below 3000 RPM, but I experience a complete lack of power at that threshold.What are your opinions on this matter, gentlemen?Thank you, and I apologize for my poor English; nevertheless, I am striving to improve.

Was this discussed in the thread: WVN vincheckup.uk phishing scam | General Discussion? If that is the case, it was not the same situation; no effort was made to get me to use the offered internet connection.

Oh, you of limited faith... The correct link is Home - hpicarhistory.com>, which links to what seems to be the authentic HPI website, HPI Check - Used car history check, UK's No 1 - checks for Finance / Write off / Mileage discrepancy/>. He said that I may use whichever check I preferred when I informed him I employed TotalCarCheck. I believe that is a legitimate request. This morning, he conveyed that he had travelled a considerable distance twice lately to inspect vehicles that did not match their descriptions, despite doing HPI checks. He is almost an hour away from me and is unwilling to squander time and resources again. I would be rather irate if I were in that situation. Overall, I believe he is a legitimate purchaser. I will do a TotalCarCheck and provide him with the results, then observe the outcome. The provided connection was not as shown above; it lacked 'Home -' and was just https://. The aforementioned link, modified by the MB Club website, first redirects to 'Car-Checking.com'. Enter 'TotalCarCheck' in the Google search bar:Apologies:Apologies:... HPI ranked second in the first search, but TotalCarCheck placed fourth in the subsequent search. I now possess the desired cheque, as I have on several occasions before.

I hasd a call (text conversation, in truth) on the CLS 63, which is offered for sale, last evening. The caller requested me to provide him the 'HAR'. "What's a HAR?" He responded with the link for an HPI verification. I use TotalCarCheck and consistently do checks on vehicles I consider purchasing; however, I have never performed one as a seller nor have I been requested to do so. Are merchants anticipated to perform that currently? I courteously rejected and offered to deduct the amount from the purchase if he desired.

Hello, the primary gasoline pump has malfunctioned, necessitating its replacement. Could you kindly advise on how to prime the system? Thank you very much for your assistance.

Should I purchase one or borrow one from a neighbouring member who possesses one?

Have you attempted to use a breaker?

I am currently investigating electrical issues as well. The sensors on the driver's side have not yet been changed due to their inaccessibility. I completed the front and rear of the passenger side.

Thank you. I believe they belong to that category.

I have changed the O2 sensors once using aftermarket components. I subsequently purchased a full set to replace all four. A technician advised the exclusive use of OEM sensors from Kia. Is this really essential? I have changed bank 2 sensor 1 times; accessing bank 1 is challenging. I am experiencing several problems with the aftermarket sensors, which do not resolve the issue, and I am contemplating if I need to purchase Kia OEM sensors. Is anybody aware?

Thank you for your informative responses; it seems to be only a standard procedure. It was unhelpful that the dealership was unaware of its significance when we reached out.

I am uncertain of your meaning, however there is nothing present in the rear seat or footwells.

Thank you for your assistance; I reviewed the instructions and found no relevant information until your response! I typically use the vehicle daily, but each trip lasts about 10 to 15 minutes. This morning, I drove for thirty minutes to circulate petrol through the engine and did not get the notification again on my commute home from work this evening; nonetheless, the vehicle continues to operate on gasoline rather than electric power, and the battery is at 99% capacity. A fan sign is visible above the battery level indication on the dashboard, although I cannot recall whether it has always been there. Will it resolve itself after a couple extended trips?

toyota CHR

A warning appeared on the dashboard yesterday and this morning stating, 'Engine started to clean system; EV mode unavailable.' What is the true significance of this? I presume that because most of our driving occurs in electric vehicle mode, it may sometimes need to operate on fuel. What is the duration or distance required for the vehicle to revert to EV mode?

My information was obtained straight from a knowledgeable technician at Continental Tyres UK, hence it is accurate.

I had difficulties with the toolbox update, rendering the SD card inoperative; fortunately, the vehicle was still under warranty for one month, and they replaced the card. They informed me that it sometimes occurs and advised me to get an update prior to service.

The optimal oil for your engine is *CLEAN* oil at the appropriate amount.