CyberMage

I am grateful. I hate that shade of grey. This is nearly as terrible as the white :D:D

To begin, fill the tank to a level of about 20 litres. You must still drain the left side of the saddle to a level of approximately 20 litres even if all the fuel is in the left saddle. Just four bolt head screws per cover can be unscrewed to remove the two covers (found under the back seat). Turn the lock rings with the removal tool to open them. The top connectors (on the left side of the saddle) will likely leak, so you'll need to use clean rags to mop them up. Unplug the fuel pump from the saddle and secure a string around one of the fuel connectors on the right side. (unlock connector with two push clips and one fuel supply button—yellow) While keeping an eye out for the fuel level float, remove the fuel level sensor assembly from the left hand side. Now fasten the string around the three new pipes' ends. Carefully thread them into the left-hand saddle, then thread them through the saddle's hole that connects the two sides. Carefully insert the left-hand fuel level sensor assembly into the left-hand saddle. Finally, thread the ends of the pipes into the right-hand saddle. Make sure the left-hand fuel sensor assembly is in the right place, and then attach the piping to the right-hand fuel pump. Before you put the lock ring on, check that the plastic housings are snugly encircled by the round circular washer.(The ring should have a blue mark; line it up with the attachment point's blue mark.) Turn the ring (pressing down on the washer) using the tool until it clicks into position. Be sure to fill the tank halfway. Turn the key to the second position and keep it there until the fuel pump stops; do this several times. Make sure there are no leaks or tears around the lock rings by running the engine for a while. Recheck for seams after filling the tank to capacity if it is clear. Put the covers back on after that. (To avoid wires chafing at the entry points, I added extra rubber.) Stupid mistakes: 1) Always use the correct lugs when connecting the fuel connectors; for example, the big one on top of the fuel pump is the one with the yellow button connector. One with a black rubber ring or gland goes to the one below it, and the one below that gets the one without. 2) In the event that you notice any fuel leaking around the lock ring, remove it, turn the circular washer around by, say, 90 degrees, and then lock it again. 3) As the air is being circulated out of the tank, you may hear gurgling sounds coming from it. Here is my clumsy account of how the saddle tank works: From the top, fuel is pumped to the engine via the Fuel Quantity Control Valve and the High Pressure Fuel Pump via the big (yellow button) connection to the left side fuel level assembly. Problem solved. For the fuel pump to receive the maximum amount of fuel, it is necessary to empty the left saddle in favour of the right. In addition, another pipe carries the fuel to the left-hand fuel level sensor assembly; from there, it flows through a nozzle submerged in fuel at the assembly's base, pushing fuel into a pipe that ultimately recirculates to the right-hand saddle. Everything will seem fine if there is a leak in the last two pipes, but when the fuel level drops, the leak will become apparent and air will be able to enter the fuel circulation pipes. In such case, air is redirected to the right-hand tank and the nozzle stops working. You have approximately fifteen litres of fuel remaining, according to your fuel gauge, but the right-hand saddle is empty.

along with the BRAND NEW Fuel Level Sensor assembly (as opposed to a used one).

This one is for you if you've ever been in the same boat as me and had the gas gauge read 1/4 full but still ran out: There is likely air seeping into the fuel pipes inside the tank due to brittle or broken fuel supply lines. Just replace the "fuel level sensor" on the left side of the saddle tank, not the pump. It's located on the left hand side, near the port. All three fuel pipes are included with this. Anybody can do it. Fuel tank lock ring removal tools with reasonably long 1/2" bars are required.

The ancient adage goes something like, "A hiding to nothing," meaning that you'll spend a lot of money with no return and much more hidden fees.

Wheels are rather easy to send, so you may enquire as to if the seller is willing to wrap and courier them to you for your expense if that's all you're seeing on eBay. Similarly, if the object in question is a tire, you may find couriers that will transport it for a reasonable price; however, it will be more challenging to pack due to the materials required, such as a large black garbage bag, cardboard to shield the rim faces and an abundance of brown packing tape. It has been a long time since I last used that method to purchase or sell wheels and tires, but I seem to recall that it only cost around £40. I transported a set of four wheels from East Kent to north of Newcastle for that amount!

Greetings to all I have reconstructed an M156 engine that I purchased following a hydrolock incident. I have subsequently recognised that it formerly operated with a Weistec supercharger, which would have an appropriate map. The question is whether I can utilise this map or if it will result in excessive overfueling consistently. Should I revert it to stock or stage 1 settings prior to attempting to start it? Thank you in advance.

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Such reminders can indeed be disconcerting, particularly when the phrasing conveys a sense of urgency. The most effective method to remain informed is to consistently verify your VIN using Mazda’s official recall database or a VIN-based service. Occasionally, the official remedy is not promptly available for all automobiles. You may request the dealer to inform you promptly when your CX-70 is registered in their system for this recall. Monitor your fuel gauge and any irregular stalling behaviour, and refrain from undertaking lengthy journeys without prearranging secure refuelling stops. If you like to verify the recall status consistently, you may commence here.

The cable requires no adjustment; it is equipped with a spring-loaded slack adjuster that must be placed in the service position. If it is an electronic handbrake, it is rather simple to perform, preferably utilising diagnostics to engage service mode; however, it can also be accomplished by removing the motor and manually unwinding it.

Do you mean pressing the P button on the automatic gear selector PRND? Do you possess a hand brake, also referred to as an emergency brake?

Indeed, diagnostic codes are essential; potential issues may encompass turbo malfunctions, boost leaks, MAF sensor failures, DPF complications, or EGR system faults. Absent these codes, one is left to conjecture. C250 AMG? Laughing out loud. The sole C AMG produced at that period was the C63.

Advertising on MBclub and AutoTrader seems to be a prudent decision. Car & Classic seems to have seen a notable increase in popularity lately. Attractive automobile with a delightful hue 💛

Keep us informed; we hope you can procure the components or have custom hoses/lines fabricated to meet OEM specifications.

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