CyberMage

To begin, fill the tank to a level of about 20 litres. You must still drain the left side of the saddle to a level of approximately 20 litres even if all the fuel is in the left saddle. Just four bolt head screws per cover can be unscrewed to remove the two covers (found under the back seat). Turn the lock rings with the removal tool to open them. The top connectors (on the left side of the saddle) will likely leak, so you'll need to use clean rags to mop them up. Unplug the fuel pump from the saddle and secure a string around one of the fuel connectors on the right side. (unlock connector with two push clips and one fuel supply button—yellow) While keeping an eye out for the fuel level float, remove the fuel level sensor assembly from the left hand side. Now fasten the string around the three new pipes' ends. Carefully thread them into the left-hand saddle, then thread them through the saddle's hole that connects the two sides. Carefully insert the left-hand fuel level sensor assembly into the left-hand saddle. Finally, thread the ends of the pipes into the right-hand saddle. Make sure the left-hand fuel sensor assembly is in the right place, and then attach the piping to the right-hand fuel pump. Before you put the lock ring on, check that the plastic housings are snugly encircled by the round circular washer.(The ring should have a blue mark; line it up with the attachment point's blue mark.) Turn the ring (pressing down on the washer) using the tool until it clicks into position. Be sure to fill the tank halfway. Turn the key to the second position and keep it there until the fuel pump stops; do this several times. Make sure there are no leaks or tears around the lock rings by running the engine for a while. Recheck for seams after filling the tank to capacity if it is clear. Put the covers back on after that. (To avoid wires chafing at the entry points, I added extra rubber.) Stupid mistakes: 1) Always use the correct lugs when connecting the fuel connectors; for example, the big one on top of the fuel pump is the one with the yellow button connector. One with a black rubber ring or gland goes to the one below it, and the one below that gets the one without. 2) In the event that you notice any fuel leaking around the lock ring, remove it, turn the circular washer around by, say, 90 degrees, and then lock it again. 3) As the air is being circulated out of the tank, you may hear gurgling sounds coming from it. Here is my clumsy account of how the saddle tank works: From the top, fuel is pumped to the engine via the Fuel Quantity Control Valve and the High Pressure Fuel Pump via the big (yellow button) connection to the left side fuel level assembly. Problem solved. For the fuel pump to receive the maximum amount of fuel, it is necessary to empty the left saddle in favour of the right. In addition, another pipe carries the fuel to the left-hand fuel level sensor assembly; from there, it flows through a nozzle submerged in fuel at the assembly's base, pushing fuel into a pipe that ultimately recirculates to the right-hand saddle. Everything will seem fine if there is a leak in the last two pipes, but when the fuel level drops, the leak will become apparent and air will be able to enter the fuel circulation pipes. In such case, air is redirected to the right-hand tank and the nozzle stops working. You have approximately fifteen litres of fuel remaining, according to your fuel gauge, but the right-hand saddle is empty.

along with the BRAND NEW Fuel Level Sensor assembly (as opposed to a used one).

This one is for you if you've ever been in the same boat as me and had the gas gauge read 1/4 full but still ran out: There is likely air seeping into the fuel pipes inside the tank due to brittle or broken fuel supply lines. Just replace the "fuel level sensor" on the left side of the saddle tank, not the pump. It's located on the left hand side, near the port. All three fuel pipes are included with this. Anybody can do it. Fuel tank lock ring removal tools with reasonably long 1/2" bars are required.

The ancient adage goes something like, "A hiding to nothing," meaning that you'll spend a lot of money with no return and much more hidden fees.

Wheels are rather easy to send, so you may enquire as to if the seller is willing to wrap and courier them to you for your expense if that's all you're seeing on eBay. Similarly, if the object in question is a tire, you may find couriers that will transport it for a reasonable price; however, it will be more challenging to pack due to the materials required, such as a large black garbage bag, cardboard to shield the rim faces and an abundance of brown packing tape. It has been a long time since I last used that method to purchase or sell wheels and tires, but I seem to recall that it only cost around £40. I transported a set of four wheels from East Kent to north of Newcastle for that amount!

Greetings to all I have reconstructed an M156 engine that I purchased following a hydrolock incident. I have subsequently recognised that it formerly operated with a Weistec supercharger, which would have an appropriate map. The question is whether I can utilise this map or if it will result in excessive overfueling consistently. Should I revert it to stock or stage 1 settings prior to attempting to start it? Thank you in advance.

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Such reminders can indeed be disconcerting, particularly when the phrasing conveys a sense of urgency. The most effective method to remain informed is to consistently verify your VIN using Mazda’s official recall database or a VIN-based service. Occasionally, the official remedy is not promptly available for all automobiles. You may request the dealer to inform you promptly when your CX-70 is registered in their system for this recall. Monitor your fuel gauge and any irregular stalling behaviour, and refrain from undertaking lengthy journeys without prearranging secure refuelling stops. If you like to verify the recall status consistently, you may commence here.

The cable requires no adjustment; it is equipped with a spring-loaded slack adjuster that must be placed in the service position. If it is an electronic handbrake, it is rather simple to perform, preferably utilising diagnostics to engage service mode; however, it can also be accomplished by removing the motor and manually unwinding it.

Do you mean pressing the P button on the automatic gear selector PRND? Do you possess a hand brake, also referred to as an emergency brake?

Indeed, diagnostic codes are essential; potential issues may encompass turbo malfunctions, boost leaks, MAF sensor failures, DPF complications, or EGR system faults. Absent these codes, one is left to conjecture. C250 AMG? Laughing out loud. The sole C AMG produced at that period was the C63.

Advertising on MBclub and AutoTrader seems to be a prudent decision. Car & Classic seems to have seen a notable increase in popularity lately. Attractive automobile with a delightful hue 💛

Keep us informed; we hope you can procure the components or have custom hoses/lines fabricated to meet OEM specifications.

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What happened with the coat hooks located inside and above the back doors?

The insurance renewal quote for the year reflects an additional 25% rise, after a prior 50% increase from a few years ago, resulting in a substantial cost to insure two vehicles. The new Volvo has also risen in price by around 20%; the era of £200-300 insurance per vehicle is over.

Initial impressions indicate that the newer models exhibit superior construction quality, with several little inconveniences rectified. For instance, the window door trims are less prone to developing green discolouration due to water retention, and the boot frame no longer directs water directly into the rear lights. The doors open fully to the bottom, enhancing access to the middle of the vehicle and facilitating ingress. Additionally, a rear camera wash is an essential element. The interior exudes a classy ambiance, creating a pleasant environment, and the central dashboard displays are rather impressive. However, I have had a few quite bothersome rattles. Based on the road surface, I have identified two sources of noise: one emanates from the split centre console cubby box lid catch, which ceases when opened, and the other originates from the dashboard fascia to the right of the steering wheel. Pressing the hard plastic corner beneath the soft fascia silences the noise, while pulling on the soft fascia produces a squeak against the lower hard plastic. Identifying these sources is a significant step forward. This model is not as high-spec as my previous Dynamic; it lacks dynamic shocks and dynamic mode, fog lights, and the desired heated steering wheel. The most significant drawback for me is the standard LR sound system, which is adequate for news but severely deficient for music. I am already seeing the impact of not having mud flaps; I will need to install them. Located within two miles of my community, the R-Dynamic insignia on the lower front door trim is obscured by a layer of dirt splattered from the front wheels. The vehicle is equipped with Auto High Beam Assist, which is unfamiliar to me; however, it was deactivated. Its functionality does not align with my expectations, as it activates the high beams whenever possible, rather than dimming them when engaged, resulting in the need to frequently toggle the high beams off and on if disabled. Enabling or disabling should be achievable with a straightforward control; maybe it exists, and I have yet to locate it. The driving experience is markedly different with this vehicle. It is petrol, hence devoid of diesel vibrations and noise; it operates smoothly and quietly, gliding with peaceful tranquilly. It accelerates well, exhibiting little turbo lag at the outset; but, it lacks the robust torque characteristic of diesel engines. Nevertheless, when fully accelerated, it performs admirably, although at the expense of fuel consumption. This weekend, while travelling across the nation and adhering to speed restrictions without exerting excessive effort, I achieved 34.2 miles per gallon as reported by the remote application. My previous diesel Evoque achieved about 40 mpg, but I no longer drove it conservatively. The current model, however, has a fuel efficiency maximum closer to 28 mpg. Nav significantly surpasses the previous version, which had subpar routing; it is comparable to my Jaguar, so I am comfortable with it. However, I need to enable data for traffic, although it does support CarPlay. While it necessitates connecting, it functions enough; nonetheless, I am uncertain about the aesthetic of Google Maps compared to the in-car navigation system, and accessing music controls during CarPlay is quite cumbersome. One problem with the navigation is that I prefer dark mode consistently; however, the primary map transitions to light mode throughout the day, but the directional displays remain in dark mode. The central dial screen exhibits fluctuations between dark and light, which is bothersome. I removed the RWG SIM from my Jaguar, but it is nonfunctional. I have not had the opportunity to investigate, since the vehicle has been in the garage for months, neglected and alone, due to my preoccupation with other commitments. I am uncertain if this £15 SIM is functioning in the Jaguar as well. The vehicle exhibited commendable performance in snowy conditions while utilising Pirelli Scorpion all-season tires. However, it occasionally revved excessively in the 3,000 to 4,000 RPM range instead of shifting up. Despite this, it maintained traction consistently. I attempted to engage snow mode, but due to the predominance of wet slush rather than solid ice, there were no indicators on the dashboard, and I observed no discernible difference in performance. The diesel exhibited more controllability during gradual acceleration in snow, but the petrol engine tends to provide power too eagerly. I still own my Michelin Cross Contacts, but I am uncertain whether those wheels would seem appropriate. Additionally, I have a set of 20" summer wheels in pristine shape, equipped with fresh tires, which I may need to sell. I need to mention many items that have suddenly become useless to me. I received my LR experience coupon via email recently, and I am prepared to go with it again. This represents a significant enhancement compared to the previous Evoque, which is noteworthy considering my fondness for my former model. While the original Evoque possessed a unique allure, possibly due to my selection of it at launch and its initial impact, this new iteration is delightful and will serve as an excellent vehicle. However, it may lack the distinctive sentiment I associate with the original, given my involvement in its launch and related events. Will I get a another 13 years of exceptional driving from this vehicle... considering it is now 4 years old, we will see.

I retained my newly acquired 2011 original Evoque for an extended period, since I loved it and found it difficult to relinquish. However, it ultimately tested my patience and financial resources increasingly. In recent years, the vehicle experienced typical Haldex juddering, shock absorber issues, a recall for the power steering rack, failure of the parking sensors loom, a hydrolastic bush leak necessitating a new control arm, seized front callipers, a tailgate that dropped sufficiently to abrade the bodywork, squeaky roll bar bushes, a turbo boost pipe failure and damage to the rear bumper clips from reversing into a wall. Additionally, there was an unusual and distressing noise from the driveshafts Despite its meticulous upkeep and pristine bodywork, the back bumper was in need of replacement after I repaired it. The narrative of replacement began; I was disinclined to choose an Ingenium diesel after seeing the prevalent concerns and receiving admonitions from my reliable mechanic, who advised against being misled. I scheduled a test drive for a 2020 Volvo XC40 Inscription, 2.0 petrol, with 5,000 kilometres on it. The two-hour journey was in a good vehicle; nonetheless, it did not suit me. I felt uncomfortable, and it was rather loud, while it offered more space, it lacked luxury. However, my partner adored it! I conducted some calculations and received an unsatisfactory offer for my vehicle. Subsequently, they enquired about a trade-in for our V40CC and provided a fair price, warranting consideration. It then dawned on me that I had not even contemplated a petrol Evoque! Consequently, I proceeded directly to the nearby Land Rover dealership, since the unusual sounds intensified with each mile. Discovered a 2020 P250 R-Dynamic SE Evoque with 7,000 kilometres. Test drove the vehicle, appreciated it, and negotiated a more favourable trade-in for my own; but, I had not conducted any study about the specifications or insurance. My vehicle was due for its MOT, but the dealer said he could not accept it without a minimum of one month's MOT validity, necessitating my journey to the MOT facility. Fortunately, it got through without incident; nevertheless, my technician entered carrying the majority of the gasoline tank cradle, stating, "I took the liberty of removing this as it was about to detach... it serves no purpose, so it is unnecessary." I chuckled and accepted the MOT certificate... relief! The next insurance payment, due in three weeks, amounts to an additional £23, which seemed acceptable. To avoid adding further mileage to my cherished Evoque, I returned it to the dealer, who fortunately conducted a test drive around the parking lot, executing sharp left and right turns to assess the differentials, which were functioning properly, and the transaction was completed. Strangely, the other party proceeded with the transaction for the XC40. Two new automobiles appeared abruptly.

It might be either a premium plus option or a later model from the second part of that specific year of production. My GLC lacks it. The time period is 2018/2019.

I have sent you a direct message.

I own a TVS Stage 2+ Gearbox Control Unit (TCU) configuration in conjunction with my MRC Stage 2 Engine Control Unit (ECU) configuration. The improvement is noteworthy.

If your vehicle is equipped with the original Engine Control Unit (ECU) and Gearbox Control Unit (TCU) mapping, you may consider examining TVS Engineering's "Driveability" TCU mapping. This mapping is designed to enhance the smoothness of gear changing. For more information, please visit their website. https://tvsengineering.com/en/performance/dsg-software/

It is probable that the belt will wear down over time when it is used on a worn pulley, since the new belt will have a different wear pattern. This is most noticeable in the morning when the belt tends to come loose easily. Additionally, I like to wait for 24 hours before adding oil and allowing the sump sealant to dry. This helps prevent any future leaks.

Even new ones seldom break since they have some flexibility. However, it is not ideal to grind the link plate, fit it, and then weld the end plate back on the link before it functions well.

To remove the crank bolt, first secure the crankshaft with a pin and attach locking tools to the camshafts. Then, remove the tensioner and proceed to remove the crank bolt. It is important to note that you will need a new crank bolt, specifically a single-use stretch bolt. To remove the oil pump chain and sprocket, first detach the sump and loosen the oil pump drive bolt. Then, you may take off the bottom sprocket of the timing chain and push the chain upwards to access the oil pump chain and sprocket. If the oil pump chain is stretched, it is advisable to replace the whole timing chain assembly.