BENZE220AMG

Salutations, I appreciate you providing that information. I am contemplating purchasing a 2017 CLS 220AMG Line Premium, but while reviewing the vehicle's MOT history, it indicates that there were advisories during the last inspection. My main issue is the subframe rust, which is not structurally unsafe. Other than that, it is a motor with a full MB service history and 49000 miles, and it has just one owner. I would greatly appreciate any input you have. My warmest regards Thank you.

An indication of overnight current drain is 11 volts on a brand-new battery. The voltage should be higher now. Although EML can be triggered by low voltage, it typically turns off after three driving cycles.

It seems like you're experiencing a significant drain on current. You installed a new battery; why? Perhaps hiring an auto electrician is the way to go.

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Given that, one may wonder why it hasn't sold yet. Are we looking at "optimistic" pricing? Just a few months after purchasing it in January of last year, the current owner is attempting to sell it. If you want to be sure you don't miss anything, I recommend taking a reliable companion with you when you watch it. You can either walk away (there are always other used cars for sale) or think about getting an AA/RAC examination before you buy it if you're still not sure whether it's right.

Distant since I am doing my quest in northeastern Scotland. By searching for "eBay classic cars," you may locate the Mercedes area. Simply enter your own postcode and peruse the available items. In due time, you will have the ability to glance and determine what is irrelevant to you. Then you may focus on the specifics. While you're at it, look for worn-out parts and compare prices and availability online; for example, headlights (which, by the way, corrode their reflectors). Some vehicles may seem expensive, but they may really be terrific deals; this will help paint a clearer picture of the situation. The W123 is a very simple automobile. You can own a decent automobile if you master the fundamentals.

Subject: I had complete faith in the mechanical integrity of a fifteen-year-old 200 automobile that had racked up 230,000 miles. The (subsequently-recommended) M102 engine's head gasket is its mechanical weak spot; nevertheless, this should not cause undue concern if the vehicle has not been subjected to excessive heat. Corrosion however is. In addition to the structural issues, they are known to rust the back panel behind the screen, which may be rather costly to fix. I came across a couple W123s when searching for "classic cars" on eBay. The one up there was the first that seemed realistic in terms of price, condition, and desirability. Some of the instructions available are in bad shape; I wouldn't recommend them. 'Hard' material seats and a tan interior are standard parts. Personally, I think the blue velour inside (devoid of the faux wood on the dashboard) is one of the most attractive features of the W123. The driver's seat often experiences bolt wear. The sunroof on mine rusted and let water into the footwells, so I really wish it hadn't. Before buying a vehicle, make sure the carpets are dry and steer clear of those with sunroofs unless you're really set on having one. Also, make sure the drain channels are clean. They are very well undersealed, which brings us back to the topic of corrosion (which is crucial on a W123). An issue arises when the underseal is compromised, since it causes water to be trapped beneath it, leading to excessive corrosion. Maybe it's OK to have one little space. When rust starts showing up everywhere, it's best to just walk away. I'm not sure I trust "full respray" vehicles since, even if they were in dire need of paint, there's no way to tell how well the paint job will be unless the seller is really trustworthy and the price is approaching £20,000. Getting replacement parts will inevitably become more difficult, so check out RockAuto's website. In addition to listing W123 (but not 230) parts, they have fair shipping prices for lighter products and are affordable overall. I don't think you really need a completely restored version of a vehicle with legendary dependability, especially because what you're want is probably available for less than £10k. Look around online and stay away from idling vehicles. If you begin at the lowest price point, you will quickly be able to discern what you need and what you can do without.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324741088589?hash=item4b9c13c54d:g:tZwAAOSw4tdhC7Rj&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xbbc1fcaf00c8aae37fd069bdf349bda2&subId2=15

I am grateful. I couldn't resist checking out their website. That is really amazing 😍

Although I hardly use an umbrella, I will certainly be bringing one with me 👌.

Thank you for the video. Boosts my excitement even farther 😝

This year, my girls surprised me with tickets to Goodwood, which would be held over three or four days. I usually just watch it on TV, but I've never attended. If anybody has any suggestions for things to do or places I really must see, I would much appreciate it. I understand it's still a ways off, but I'm eager 😁

It is good to see you again.

Valiant individual! I will remain in the kitchen - suitability varies by context!

The overvoltage and undervoltage faults are likely historical. The majority are referred to as BS codes. Ensure to measure the alternator's output when it is operational. If you exhibit no defects or symptoms, disregard the codes. It is likely that you will need to do wiring inspections for the airbag malfunction. Wiring schematics and potentially a resistance-generating gadget will be required. https://cpc.farnell.com/c/test-equi...multi-meter or resistance and continuity meter. Are there any defects with the steering wheel buttons? Are there any codes in the SWCM?