Rudy7831

In a staggered configuration, the back wheels are usually broader.

Not exactly "plug and play" because you have to take off several panels inside (namely the driver's side and the entire back of the cargo area). If you get the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) digital rearview mirror, it comes with an extensive instruction booklet. I was shocked by how big it was at first, but then I remembered that it was thick because it had instructions in various languages. Only thirty-one pages are relevant, in my opinion. You can simply "plug and play" the digital rearview mirror into your OEM auto-dimming mirror. Hardware is included in the OEM digital rearview kit; if not, you will have to conduct some wire tapping. It was a breeze to connect the new digital rearview mirror to my PP as it already had the auto-dimming mirror. I hope this clarifies things for you. If you're interested in giving it a go, you can download the installation manual in.pdf format. The most challenging aspect of the installation, in my opinion, was threading the coax through the rubber tube that links the back hatch to the roof. Because there is no other point in the installation where the coax must be protected from the environment, this step is crucial. It's hard to put into words, but you'll understand it when you experience it. Just reply to this post and I'll try my best to share what worked for me if you get "stuck" on this step when installing. Hope everything works out.

In regards to the digital mirror, I couldn't agree with you more. It made more sense to add one because I was planned on doing the dash cams and I was thinking about interesting tech. After installation, it ensures that there will be no hindrance in the back passenger area or when the cargo compartment is filled to the headliner. Since my wife usually drives this car, I'm constantly impressed by how helpful the digital mirror is when I get the opportunity to take the wheel. My regular vehicle lacks that capability.

We filled up our brand new 2025 CX 70 PHEV PP for the first time. Before filling it up at the pump, we reduced it to nearly half full. I came up with the number of 51 mpg as our average. We are fuelling with premium. The gas mileage has been satisfactory thus far. So that we can acquire real-world data, I asked my spouse to drive this "normally," because it is her primary vehicle. We cushioned the cargo space and installed the original equipment manufacturer all-weather mats as accessories. The fit and style are perfect. I also included the Digital Rearview Mirror with HomelinkTM, another OEM device. Installing it wasn't too daunting, so I tackled it on my own. Aside from that one hard step, the installation was dead easy. I think this installation is a great idea in general, but it becomes really useful when there are three grown-ups seated in the back bench seat, since it somewhat blocks your view of the rear window. With the digital rearview mirror, you can see clearly and unimpeded. Last but not least, I decided to install the front and rear dash cams simultaneously with the digital rearview mirror installation since I was removing panels and whatnot for that purpose. Everything is going swimmingly thus far. As of right now, I will not be installing any further accessories; I am just waiting for the OEM mud guards to be delivered.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202106254243180?make=MERCEDES-BENZ&advertising-location=at_cars&model=230&sort=relevance&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=Used&postcode=ph11rr&body-type=Saloon&fuel-type=Petrol&include-delivery-option=on&radius=1501&page=1

You may expect to spend £10k+ for a "proper" (i.e., original, undamaged, or completely restored) W123—anything less will need a lot of "work"—but a W124 is a lot more affordable for day-to-day driving projects.

In this case, the CLK seems to have been well-kept.

That is fantastic news! I hope you drive safel, and I may reconsider this online gig in the future.

I had a similar experience when I went with my wife to buy a family car we visited six dealers before she made her decision! Anyway, I looked into Lamsam Logistics and from what I found online, they seem to be legitimate in every aspect, legally registered with Companies House since 2018 and have an excellent online rating. However, as some of the old-timers I support prefer face-to-face purchases, I want to see the car in person first. Cheers m8!

Given the mileage and the fact that it only occurs when cold, it does sound like a sluggish injector. That is backed up by the cycle 1 correction jumping. Before spending a lot of money, it's worthwhile to check the glow plugs and controller as well as any hoover or air leaks.

Fitment can occasionally provide a challenge with aftermarket components. I obtain my from MB. No frivolity, then. Additionally, several aftermarket blades may have been stored for several years, resulting in aged rubber.

Greetings, I apologise for the interruption once more. I accessed the fuses in the driver's side engine compartment; but, the fuse schematic you provided does not correspond with the diagram I own. Could you identify relay N in the attached photograph? Thank you once more, my friend.

I greatly appreciate it. Briefly, will replacing this fuse resolve the issue? 1. Eliminate the fault codes I own. 2. Upon replacement, must I reprogram it, or is it merely a straightforward exchange assuming I obtain the correct part for my vehicle? Thank you

Greetings, everyone. My Topdon scanner displays the codes U208487, P069500, and P065800. I am uncertain whether they are connected, as it states 'the output for relay circuit 87' and 'communication with radiator shutter 1 has a problem.' Is the radiator shutter issue attributable to this relay, and if so, where is relay 87 situated? My vehicle is a 2016 manual Mercedes C200d with a 1.6-liter diesel engine. If anyone had information or experience about this matter, your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.