Needsnewtyres2

https://echo.tesla.com/qs/H36CB8

The URL serves as an abbreviation and must redirect to the Tesla ECHO portal.

I attempted to insert it myself, achieving a depth of approximately 20mm. I believed I had resolved the issue, as the two components engaged, resulting in a slight gap on one edge; however, they remained misaligned, preventing the shock from sliding into the knuckle. I subsequently summoned assistance. Despite inclement weather, I dedicated a total of four days to the task, with three of those days focused on reattaching the shock to the vehicle. The mechanic required less than 15 minutes to install it onto the car, with the majority of that time spent repositioning the driveshaft into the CV joint.

I have identified two reasons for my inability to align the shock absorber and knuckle: firstly, I installed the spring incorrectly, with the flatter end positioned against the top mount, a distinction that is challenging to discern; secondly, and more significantly, the CV joint had dislodged. This occurred when I applied pressure to the wishbone/knuckle to remove the shock absorber. The hub/disk remained stationary, indicating it was still engaged, although it had retracted sufficiently to prevent the alignment of the two components. Ultimately, I enlisted the assistance of a retired mechanic, marking the first occasion in 40 years of automotive repair that I sought external help. I was astonished by the considerable effort he exerted to properly reengage the CV joint into the coupling by the differential. It took him approximately 10 minutes, and it protruded by about 2 to 3 inches. Subsequently, he loosened the drive shaft bolt securing it to the hub using a substantial impact driver. This was intended to enable the hub to be depressed sufficiently to connect the knuckle with the shock absorber, allowing the hub to slide on the driveshaft splines rather than dislodging it from the CV joint once more. Subsequent to all that, it was effortless to insert the shock into the knuckle. I decided to document this in case someone else has the same difficulty in the future. I have utilised computers and the internet since the 1990s and previously worked in IT; yet, I have been unable to locate anyone online experiencing the same difficulty.

It is acceptable. Reviewed several videos prior to commencing the task, but found them unhelpful for reassembly. I have discovered another instance, and as illustrated in this screenshot, the angle between the knuckle and the shock is markedly different, hence increasing my confidence in aligning them. Currently, it is dark, and there have been two days of rain; therefore, I will attempt again in three days.

Greetings, I appreciate your response. The problem lies not in elevating the hub/knuckle to engage with the shock, but in compressing the shock/spring while installed on the vehicle to align the top mounting hole of the knuckle beneath it. I am experiencing significant difficulties compressing the shock, and even when I succeed, I cannot bring the top of the knuckle close enough to the car to engage the shock. I removed the shock absorber, but the angle of the knuckle, as observed from above where the shock connects, suggests that there may be an issue.

I attempted to do mine today and encountered a minor tragedy. It took 1.5 hours to replace the spring, but midway through, the socket adapter in my impact driver broke off flush within the holder, rendering it impossible to remove. Progress was satisfactory till that point. I am currently unable to reinsert the completed shock absorber into the hub and must postpone the task until tomorrow due to diminishing daylight. I have removed the shock absorber from the vehicle, and it appears that the upper part of the hub does not align with the aperture in the wing designated for the shock's upper attachment. I suspected the drive shaft may have disengaged from the gearbox; however, there is no visible oil, and I am unable to rotate the brake disc, indicating it remains properly situated. I assume the hub's apex should connect with the shock's mounting hole in the wing for proper alignment, or does the insertion of the shock adjust the hub into alignment? I am hesitant to apply force, as it may misalign and result in damage or deformation to the vehicle. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I understand you stated it is not wind noise, yet it distinctly resembles the sound of a window that is not fully closed.

The lug bolts for your Audi include a radius seat.

We achieve 55-60 miles per gallon from a 2022 Niro HEV. I have been informed that despite the increased complexity of the mechanics, the engine experiences reduced stress during acceleration due to the activation of the battery and motor. Knock on wood, we have experienced considerable happiness thus far.

It appears that your vehicle's heating system is not regulating the blend effectively. Several factors that may contribute to this: Blend door actuator — it operates the flaps that regulate hot and cold air. In the event of malfunction or obstruction, one may experience abrupt cold air or irregular airflow. If the coolant level is insufficient, the heater core will not receive adequate hot fluid to heat the air. If the thermostat is not functioning correctly, the engine may fail to attain optimal temperature, resulting in inadequate heater performance. Conduct a brief inspection: ensure the coolant is replenished and at the appropriate level, then monitor for any atypical sounds near the dashboard (a clicking actuator is a frequent indicator). If the issue persists, the mix door actuator is the probable cause.

I have encountered extensive web literature indicating that this issue is prevalent across many Mercedes models; I reside in Bristol. I do not possess a warranty for the vehicle, unfortunately.

I have discovered that my cam sensors are leaking, possibly along with the magnets, and I am experiencing issues with the engine, particularly when cold, although it has begun to occur while warm as well, especially during acceleration from a standstill. The engine revs fluctuate erratically when the vehicle is barely in motion, indicating improper engagement during acceleration. This issue also occurs during reverse, although it improves as the engine reaches optimal temperature. Idling can be somewhat challenging as well. Upon observing the sensor leakage, I have linked the issue to the ECU, which has experienced infiltration. However, I have not yet opened the ECU for inspection. A persistent warning light for the O2 sensors in bank one has reappeared, despite their replacement, leading me to suspect the ECU is at fault. Is it possible to save the ECU? Will I need to repair the wiring harness?

For a position of that nature, I believe I would only wish to rely on Cleeveley, even if it necessitated travel.

I am presently seeking a new vehicle for my wife and have been considering the CX-70 PHEV for some time. Are there any concerns regarding the vehicle, such as common issues or similar matters? What is the general consensus regarding the vehicle? I admire its appearance and need additional information from current owners. Has the used market for this vehicle declined? My local Mazda dealership offers several certified pre-owned Premium Plus models with 5,000 kilometres for $47,000, which appears to be a low price. Is this accurately positioned in the valley, or does it appear strangely low? I reviewed the Carfax for one of the vehicles, and it appears it has been taken to the dealership twice for computer-related services. Is this a matter of concern?

I have recently visited eBay, allowing me to answer my own inquiry on the puck. The description in the handbook referenced by Old Drongo aligns with my handbook; however, the illustrations of the jack points do not indicate the presence of this seam, nor do they clarify the function of the dimples. As for Mogless and Noublue's use of a puck, do you use the puck as is or do you modify it? Is the puck utilised when employing a scissors jack? I apologise if I appear uninformed; nevertheless, I am not an automotive technician, therefore I am exercising caution.

I have identified what I believe to be the front jack point; it seems to be a vertical metal weld seam including two dimples (inverted U-shaped recesses in the seam, for lack of a better term). Several years ago, I owned Vauxhalls that featured a comparable jack point, but with only a single dimple. On the Vauxhalls, the dimple accommodated a lug situated at the centre of the jack (jack supplied by Vauxhall). Does the Kia have an option for selecting a certain dimple, or should I position the jack between the two dimples, or is there another method? Are these ice hockey pucks referred to by that term on eBay, or do they have an alternative designation there?

I possess a 72-registered Sportage, acquired a month ago, and it is my inaugural Kia. How can I identify a jacking point on the vehicle? I purchased a full-size spare wheel, and it fits well in the designated "spare" position. When at home, I can choose between a trolley jack and a scissor jack to elevate the car. While travelling, I possess only a scissors jack for wheel replacement. Where does Kia propose positioning a jack under the car, and do these locations vary based on the type of jack employed? Thank you for your assistance.

There existed The Mk1 Fiesta XR2 employed a 1.6 variant of the Kent Crossflow engine, while the Mk2 Fiesta XR2 utilised the 1.6 CVH engine. With the introduction of the Mk3 Fiesta, the XR2 was equipped with fuel injection, resulting in the XR2i designation.

Single turbo or dual turbo?

Greetings, gentlemen, You have likely reviewed this several times, but any recommendations would be extremely appreciated. I am seeking an effective fuel injector cleaning for a 2015 Mercedes E220 Bluetec Diesel A207, which has around 63,000 kilometers. I intended to spend a few minutes online acquiring one, believing it to be a universal solution; but, I was mistaken. My automobile is turbocharged; should I consider that while purchasing it? Thank you in advance.

Thank you very much. I now need someone to install it. I believe a new rear bumper bar is also necessary, correct? It also states that no encoding is required. Contemplation.

uuuu I appreciate your response. Is it a lasting solution? I am curious if the Eco Pro mode feature is available if it is removable. However, electrical systems remain continuously linked, suggesting a potentially analogous situation. Thank you one again. That is really valuable information.

Greetings, Has anybody installed a removable towbar on their G11 7 Series (my model is from 2021) for bicycle carriers? What is the monetary value I am seeing, and is it discernible when detached?