Needsnewtyres2

Greetings, everyone! I am a newcomer seeking guidance. I have been researching but have not seen any information similar to the issue/noise I am having with my vehicle, so I thought I would seek out to see if anybody can assist me in resolving this matter. I have had my 2007 E320 sport sedan for about one year, and I think the gearbox code is 722.9. I have recently observed an unusual metallic sound emanating from the vicinity of the torque converter. Here is the current situation: Upon initiating the engine in a cold state, the noise is hardly perceptible. The noise diminishes when I shift the vehicle into drive when the engine is cold. When the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise intensifies when in neutral or park. I have replaced the gearbox oil and filter according to manufacturer specifications, but it did not resolve the issue. The vehicle transitions smoothly when warm; however, I have observed that when cold and downshifting from second to first gear, the experience is rather jarring (but devoid of clunking). The gearbox seems to function OK; nonetheless, the noise is causing me some concern. Has anybody had a similar situation or have any recommendations on the potential causes? I have also included an audio clip of the vehicle in neutral, transitioning to drive, and then reverting to neutral, if that is of assistance. Thank you in advance for any assistance!

Have you enquired with the Mercedes expert on the cost? That would appear to be better than guessing your self or asking local garages who may be wonderful individuals but not MB experts

I believe so; but, to confirm, use the REALOEM website to verify if the component numbers are same.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BS53-USA-06-2002-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=33_1185

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ET56-EUR-02-2005-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=33_1185

The gearing will be incorrect, since the 05 has an I value of 2.93, whereas the donor 02 has an I value of 3.38.

Insufficient information. Is the 2005 330i an E46 or an E90, and is it automatic? What is the year and model of the automatic 330ci?

The nuts corrode and the shafts get immobilized. When I worked on Mrs. Car, I had to drill and chisel the nut off and use a press tool to extract the shaft. The bearing installation was straightforward as I just placed the hub in the hydraulic press.

Fascinating. It seems that the CX-60 has a trickle charger, but not a float charger, unless you activate the ignition. Although a 13.1V voltage is insufficient to fully charge a 12V battery, it is enough to prevent the battery from draining over time. Trickle charging, which involves a very low current, is also possible with this voltage. The battery requires a voltage of 14.4V for charging, and the charger used at the Mazda workshop provides an even higher voltage.

How can you determine whether it is in the process of charging? The voltage of a lead battery typically requires a minimum of 6 hours, and may take up to 1 day, to stabilise after charging. Therefore, based on this information, it seems that the reading you are seeing is likely a result of the last charging cycle that occurred while driving. After disconnecting my AGM charger from the 12V battery, the battery consistently registers a voltage slightly over 14V for an extended period of time. The state-of-charge of sealed batteries may be ascertained by measuring the voltage. This measurement is most precise when the battery has been disconnected from a load for a minimum of 6 hours, ideally 24 hours.

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Regrettably, no. The automobile dashboard will only show "READY" when the ignition is turned on, which can only happen after detaching from the charger.

Indeed, I have perused that information. Nevertheless, my comprehension is that the injector data is saved inside a BMW database, necessitating a visit to an authorised dealer in order to facilitate its transfer to the DDE.

Installing pre-owned or refurbished injectors is a routine practice for diesel engines, and it is often problem-free. (particularly on earlier versions)

It is possible to use the engine without coding, although its performance may be compromised.

Although nickoyster4, we would be willing to do it, they are motivated by the work and the monetary compensation. The condition of the starter seems OK to me, but, if you are installing a new flywheel, it would be prudent to replace the starter as well.

Thank you for all the guidance, gentlemen.

I connected my previous trickle charger to see whether it provides assistance, since I lack a jump pack...I will provide an update later today.

The battery comes with a comprehensive guarantee that covers complete replacement for the first three years. Therefore, I should be eligible to get a new battery without incurring any costs.

I concur...I attempted to re-tighten the wires and recharge the battery once again. This time, the ctek battery tender exhibited a blinking pattern similar to the previous occurrence, but it remained in that state. After a duration of 30 minutes, the error light illuminated. Thank you Starcar2022

Greetings, gentlemen. I am facing a problem that I am finding difficult to solve. I have not used my 2015 R8 for about 5 weeks, and I neglected to connect a battery tender to it in the assumption that I would utilise it more often over the summer. Yesterday evening, I made the decision to connect the battery tender to it in order to ensure that I would be able to use it this morning. Last night, the automobile was inoperable and the emergency release wire had to be used to access the frunk. After allowing it to charge for 10 hours, I removed the tender and the alarm was triggered. I deactivated the alert by pressing the unlock button. When I attempt to start the automobile, there is no response. The engine does not crank, and there is no illumination on the dashboard.I am experiencing an issue where the service indicator is about to activate, and at the same time, the radio is turning on. I just inserted a new battery around 3 months ago. After connecting the battery tender, it indicates a complete charge within 30 seconds. What other things am I overlooking? I am contemplating the possibility of needing to reset a certain component or having a malfunctioning battery. However, considering that the battery tender indicates a full charge, it seems plausible that the issue lies elsewhere and not with the battery. Do you have any reflections or recommendations?

The W205 model produced between 2014 and 2018, before to its facelift, was equipped with the NTG5*2 system. The W205 facelift model (2018- ) was equipped with the NTG5.5 system. Hopefully, this information proves beneficial.

Hello, I am still experiencing this problem. I just had my device inspected, and the technicians determined that it is related to dead spots. They were unable to explain why the device functioned well for four months before this issue arose, especially considering that I take the same route to work every day. Occasionally, the problem goes temporarily and then reappears with a totally different radio station. Dear ASH, I have installed my dashcam by connecting it directly to the fuse box using a piggyback connector (specifically, the Nextbase wiring kit). I have used the fuse recommended in the dashcam post for this purpose.

LED headlights are not likely to be the culprit, since they use less power than Halogen or HID headlights. If HID lights have been installed, the power boxes might serve as ballast.

Indeed, the described behaviour does seem to be indicative of high power consumption. However, without specific details on the battery voltage, it is difficult to provide a definitive assessment. Upon scanning, one would see an electrical code, such as the occurrence of 3EED while my dashcam is in park mode. After leaving it alone for a week, I received a notification indicating that the battery level was low. There are many objects that are intended to enter sleep mode, as Arnie explained. If it fails to do so, it will gradually deplete the battery. The speed at which the item operates is determined by its power consumption. An 80Ah battery has a capacity to provide a current of 80A for one hour, 8A for 10 hours, or 800mA for 100 hours.