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Certainly. I fitted standard tires on the front and waited around six to nine months before the rear required replacement. I was unprepared to discard functional rear tires.

Install standard tires on the front and do routine doughnuts in supermarket parking lots, as well as execute aggressive starts at traffic signals. This will rapidly diminish the lifespan of the rear components, thereby resolving the issue.

😅

I had a similar problem with the key fob, affecting both keys. I purchased new casings and installed them myself, since I disapproved of the silicone covers previously applied to the original fobs. Simple remedy, and they seem as good as new today. I have not yet encountered the seals issue; however, I suspect an imminent Haldex problem, as my vehicle intermittently switched to 2WD only, with error codes indicating a Haldex pump pressure issue. Ironically, the day I returned it to the dealer, the problem ceased, and it has not recurred over the past few hundred miles, though I am confident it will resurface eventually. Replacing the gearbox oil is included in my list of DIY preventive maintenance jobs, along with the differentials as well.

The positive aspect is that you own the 2.2 older engine, which is notably reliable; just guarantee consistent maintenance. This is the repair instructions for replacing the buckle. It seems straightforward; however, I recommend disconnecting the negative battery terminal and waiting 10 minutes before engaging with any components related to restraint systems. (I am not an expert, so please verify what actions you need to do.) Prior to proceeding, the service manual indicates that the failure to latch may be attributed to a foreign object inside the buckle; thus, I recommend thoroughly inspecting the area for any stones, candy wrappers, or similar debris. Seatbelt buckles seldom fail, since they are engineered to function even post-collision.

The Forum Fuel police will need you to substantiate this assertion. Mercedes also advises against the use of any gasoline additives, it seems. Merely stating 😉

You may also download maps to your phone, which will use GPS without requiring mobile data

https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/cheap-mobile-finder/sim-only/

A Luddite, I am now progressively acquiescing to electric vehicles, mostly due to my wife's potential purchase of one. She seems to favor the A35 or EQA, although not having driven either, acknowledging that they are almost at opposite ends of the spectrum. Cars up to two years old seem to provide excellent value, however it is recognized that one pays a premium for the enhanced features. I like the EQA primarily due to its financial viability and suitability for commercial operations. I would appreciate some guidance, specifically: Is the 350 significantly superior than the 250/250+ for mostly local excursions of up to 12 miles, considering that range is not a primary concern? Outstanding 140-mile round trip conducted monthly. Are there other vehicles from different brands to consider, given that technology and gadgets are not a priority for her? Are there any dependability concerns about EQA that should be noted?

I concur; after installing new control arms on my vehicle, I had the alignment performed at Halfords garage. After three attempts over the course of a week, they declared their inability to align my steering wheel properly. I subsequently visited Protyre, where they rectified the issue immediately using the Hunter system. This experience has been instructive. I typically avoid Halfords, although it was previously National Tyres, which provided satisfactory service; regrettably, that is no longer the case.

Indeed, I have completed that task, and it is detailed in the preceding article. I may have been editing as you sent this remark; I apologise for the delay in my response. I transitioned from typing on my phone, which was very sluggish, resulting in an incomplete thread being submitted. I then continued on my PC to use a keyboard. 👍

I have just replaced the rear differential oil on the W212. Mercedes Bevo designates Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE 75W-85 as an acceptable lubricant, acquired on Black Friday from Opie Oils for around £10 per litre bottle (two bottles are required). I suspect that is the liquid Merc really included in their bottles. Refer to my previous discussion on power steering fluid and the Bevo link, which clearly indicates that Fuchs is the only certified supplier of PAS fluid; hence, Fuchs is evidently often used by Mercedes. The drain and fill plugs on the differential use a 14mm hex key configuration. I own a Laser sump key set, which includes a 14mm sump key socket compatible with a 3/8" square ratchet drive that fits into the plug head. Thoroughly clean the drain plugs and apply penetrating fluid at least 15 minutes before to attempting to remove them. I discovered that a 3/8" ratchet fit into the area between the exhaust, eliminating the requirement for a wobbling universal coupler. I opted not to put a jack on the differential, using this alternative way instead; nevertheless, I cannot endorse it to others since I cannot guarantee the safety of the jack. I would only feel adequately at ease doing this service on MOT ramps or a four-post lift. Many individuals may advocate for the use of axle stands; however, this necessitates the danger of elevating the vehicle only via the differential, which is already deteriorating after twelve years. I would not feel any more secure underneath two little axle stands with a very narrow base, especially when compared to a wheel and a three-foot railway sleeper. I believe that a wheel positioned correctly under the sill and the robust, square-cut wood under the rear subframe could adequately bear the car's weight if the jack were to fail. The space between the sill and the wheel, as well as between the wood and the subframe, was less than 5mm, indicating that any 'drop' would be minimal. I elevated the passenger side rear, detached the rear wheel, and positioned it partially under the vehicle, next to the sill and in proximity to the jack, thereafter placing several substantial offcuts of railway sleeper behind the rear subframe. While under observation by an assistant who was well informed about the jack's operation, I manoeuvred under the vehicle, loosened the fill plug, and exited. Approximately 10 seconds. Reattached the wheel and lowered it to the ground. I subsequently elevated the driver's side, using the identical procedure as previously described, with a wheel under the sill and railway sleepers beneath the rear subframe. While being monitored, I was whipped below and completely removed the drain stopper, which I inadvertently dropped into the oil catch pan. Approximately 20 seconds underneath the vehicle. I subsequently lowered this side meticulously on the jack, ensuring that the differential was inclined slightly downward towards the drain hole. After allowing it to drain for around 20 minutes, I elevated the car once again, ensuring the wheel and railway sleepers were in place, and reinserted the drain plug from under the vehicle. Approximately 20 seconds. Subsequently, retract the wheel on the driver's rear and lower it back down. Now, return to the rear passenger side, elevated with the wheel removed and placed under the sill, together with railway sleepers once again. I was able to access the fill plug between the brake disc and the front of the rear wheel arch using several socket extensions. Additionally, I utilised a large oil syringe/extractor with approximately 2 feet of rigid poly hose to fill the differential, all without positioning myself beneath the vehicle. It is important to note that the car is inclined away from the fill hole, leading to a minor overfill of differential oil. I then lowered the vehicle to a level position, allowing the extra oil to drain to the appropriate level. Repositioned the vehicle, placed the wheel under the sill, and then swiftly crawled underneath for an additional 30 seconds to install the plug, followed by a brief cleanup with baby wipes. The repetitive process of removing and replacing the wheels, along with raising and lowering the vehicle, extended the task to approximately 90 minutes. However, I felt more secure with the car resting on three wheels—one wheel positioned under the sill, supported by railway sleepers, and the front wheels chocked—rather than having the rear elevated on both sides with axle stands. This preference is particularly pertinent for rear-wheel-drive vehicles, as the front wheels are not constrained by gears or the brakes.

because to the elevated temperatures when revving, ensure there is no coolant loss and/or air entrapment in the system. Additionally, verify if your model is equipped with active air dampers. They may be inadvertently left open.

What is the method to do this? Are there any links available?