paulh2602601

Over the years, I've done it three or four times on each vehicle. Since my driveway is slanted, I level the car by driving it onto wheel ramps. Fuchs and one of those inexpensive transfer pumps from eBay have always made refilling a breeze. It’s such a cheap job as diy .

Just like I mentioned before, some tires provide a more comfortable ride. Learn as much as you can from this and the web You might also try lowering the pressure by one or two psi before you buy the tires. How are the shocks and suspension? I upgraded from 18s on my old E350 coupe to 19s on my new E400 coupe. Although I do agree that the ride is somewhat rougher, I had to replace the worn tyres with Hankooks because the original ones weren't very good. I give them a piss under the table.

Yours truly. My companion is coming along, and she has warned me not to miss what could be glaringly clear. His asking price is virtually exactly what a trader would pay, plus or minus £1,500 more than the research suggests for a tidy private sale. The dealer's estimate for fixing the arm ball joint is about £570; however, I will be able to shave at least £2,000 off that figure. Regarding the AA/RAC inspection, you are correct; I shall take that into consideration. Actually, it would be wise to have a professional Mercedes mechanic take a look at the vehicle. I had the RAC look into it and found someone with expertise in 280SLs in 2000, when I bought a 1983 model. They dispatched a guy who was clueless about these autos and had no prior expertise with them. In the end, a wealthy investment banker bought her after we had her for 23 years.

The E Class 2020 (January) with 47,000 miles on the odometer is a 2.0 E200 AMG Line Edition (Premium Plus), and I will be seeing it next week. In order to avoid spending a lot of money on a defective product, can somebody tell me what a layperson can look for? I have previously paid for a report detailing the vehicle's maintenance, inspections, previous owners, and more as part of my due diligence. The vehicle's service history is complete and confirmed by the dealer. The automobile looks great on the photos. Buying the car from a private party raises the stakes and makes me feel nervous. In addition, I have viewed a number of instructional videos on YouTube regarding the symptoms to watch out for, such as Cold Shift, The "Kickdown" Hesitation, Torque Converter Shudder, and the like. It seems like the present owner has just had the vehicle since January 2025. He is downsizing, which is his (seemingly youthful) rationale for selling. It seems like people have been looking at it since about the middle of last year, according to the report I bought from CarCheck. There was an advisory for a minor play in the nearside front suspension arm ball joint during the last MOT (which was two months ago). Helpful suggestions are welcome.

Continue producing those gastronomic creations. 👍

Currently acquiring proficiency in utilising a Launch tool. Appears to be superior to my initial assessment. Initiate X431 CRP919X BT Elite Bi-Directional. I purchased it under the impression that it was an authentic UK market version. It appears that it is not, however it still looks capable of accessing the car modules and supplying extensive data.

Which engine? Which year?

I greatly appreciate it. Your expertise is consistently valued in this forum. You ought to possess your own part.

Thank you for your response. I anticipated that you would. I recognised that the codes were unrelated, yet I felt compelled to disclose them. It appears that I will be undertaking one of your rebuilds, which I find rather agreeable, to be candid. Any recommendations regarding which components to get would be much valued. This mini is too valuable to damage, and my objective is to maintain these minis in operational condition. It has only completed 80,000 kilometres.

Greetings, everyone. I purchased a Cooper S with this defect. The apparent pressure sensor has been installed by a garage, suggesting it is an authentic sensor. Nevertheless, the light illuminates. No fault codes are associated with the issue; only the footwell module requires reprogramming. The battery was completely depleted. It initiates on the first attempt and operates well at idle. The light activates once the engine has reached optimal temperature. My inquiry is regarding the initial steps for inspection and replacement. ??? Thank you in advance.

The hub may require lubrication. Simple resolution. Remove the tyre, clean the interior of the alloy, apply grease to the hub and then reattach the tyre.

While it is not an issue, like most clubs and forums, there are certain regulations, and this one is particularly stringent regarding new members. It would have been advantageous for you to review the regulations, as this would have provided you with a preliminary advantage. However, as previously noted, there are specific activities in which you may not engage until you have made 30 valid posts and maintained membership for 30 days. Administrators reserve the right to discount posts they consider invalid; thus, superficial responses or trivial comments aimed at rapidly increasing your count are unlikely to succeed, as they will likely be noticed, leading to their removal from your total count. Merely a matter of exercising patience, engaging when possible, and appreciating the existing content on the forum that captivates your interest.

I now engage the brake, hit the start button, and wait for the drive light to illuminate green, which takes only a few seconds. [/QUOTE] Indeed, I wait; nonetheless, the green READY light does not illuminate on the initial attempt.

Greetings, Despite wearing my seatbelt, my KIA NIRO prevents me from engaging reverse or drive when I start the vehicle. Upon rebooting, I can engage either reverse or drive. What mistakes am I making, please?