Doncaster34

His words.

The two parts aren't the only ones. There are a couple more items, but the list is shorter. Idler pulley, tensioner, bolts, etc. The dealer is obligated to adhere to Mercedes regulations. This comes with no spare parts. Plus, labour is expensive. The Belgians. thrice as much as a standalone garage. That area is called Wallon. Every single garage in the area has completely lost my trust. Due to mental exhaustion, the only decent one closed. However, compared to high-quality aftermarket components, the pulley is actually more affordable. They stand firm on the two-year warranty, which is the only perk in my book. Including the subframe, they have dutifully honoured everything. It isn't accurate to say that the pulley is loose. Here we have a pulley/harmonic damper. The structure is disintegrating. It's not easy. In French, I understand everything. Aircraft jargon is my speciality, but automotive lingo is completely foreign to me.

Now we have the quotes. The essentials will set you back 1,150 euros, while the complete accessory drive, water pump, and labour will set you back 1930 euros. A lot lower than what I had anticipated from my study. I intend to take the full course. If I had to wager, I'd say my vehicle has the best maintenance records for its year, model, and mileage in the nation. Love comes at a price. Occasionally, OEM parts are the superior option, even though I could find them elsewhere for half the price. Also, make sure to check out the hostess! Heaven on earth!

The decision has been made. The location was correct, but the pulley was incorrect. That one is pricey. There is a little play in the crankshaft pulley. Two quotations will be written by them. Typically, the optimal option is to use one for the water pump and complete set of pulleys and one for the crankshaft pulley and belt. The choice will be made based on price and the timing of Christmas. To be honest, the kids have been misbehaving the whole year. 😆

I have ramped up the maintenance plan. Each 6,000 kilometres, I change the oil and filter. Every time it's necessary, I change the air filter, cabin filter, and diesel filter by myself. Replaced filters are not my speciality. At this very moment, I am waiting for the garage to finish their diagnostic. I just swapped out the valve cover. Even without the code, I can tell that injector 4 isn't ideal. It seems to me that the intake system might have a tiny leak as well. I am unable to isolate the hiss. Instead of using hydrogen, I'd prefer a thorough disassembly and manual cleaning for my intake. Two of my friends have rave reviews in that area. Regardless, I'm at ease in the waiting room, where there are an unusually large number of attractive women. I will fix the steering rack after I fix all the motor issues. No amount of adjusting has ever corrected the tiny pull to the right. Finally, the rack could be an option. I'm going to start with a fluid change.

Hi there, Driven by an AMG-pack 2012 E250 CDI S212 waggon. An odour of burning rubber has been detected both indoors and outdoors as of late. So that I can see the strut towers free of rubber dust, I make sure my engine compartment is always clean. The 'touch the pulleys' test popped into my head after perusing all the clues provided by META AI (which is pretty good). My finger burnt on the water pump pulley, but the others were all nice and toasty. This is what I'm calling an intermittent problem that will eventually become a full-blown breakdown. This is the vacuum-activated pump. Even though the temperature gauge occasionally climbed one tick higher than usual, there was no overheating. Is my diagnosis correct? When you lose your belt, you might reach out and grab anything you can get your hands on as it winds up. Trust me, I know the feeling. I would prefer that not to occur. For the next 270,000 kilometres, apart from the pump and belt, what other parts should I replace to make sure it runs smoothly? We gladly accept the opinions of those with more experience. It is appreciated.

After speaking with Peugeot, I learned that they are aware of the outage and are actively attempting to fix it.

That explains why range rovers are in the highest insurance bracket (50), and that's before you even consider the RR theft rate!

Probably over £31,000.

https://cardealermagazine.co.uk/mercedes-owner-hit-with-43700-engine-replacement-quote-after-catastrophic-failure-at-48000-miles/327674

t was somewhat of a result, I would say!

That would be really useful, so thank you for that. While his front suspension won't be a direct comparison due to his standard steel setup instead of full AIRMATIC, his rear air suspension measurement would be highly helpful as it should sit at its normal self-leveling height, which is pretty close to my AIRMATIC in Comfort. Personally, I believe Can he, preferably on level ground, take a vertical measurement from the center of the Mercedes star/wheel hub to the wheel-arch lip? I would greatly appreciate it if he could. Regardless of the front ends' suspension configuration, the rest of the car would be fascinating to look at. Much obliged.

If someone possessing an X218 full AIRMATIC (front and rear) could measure from the center of the Mercedes emblem/wheel hub vertically to the wheel arch lip, it would be greatly appreciated. Optimal readings would be those of Comfort and Sport.

Revision: I have now recalibrated using the superior centre-of-wheel-to-arch technique, ensuring that wheel/tyre dimensions do not influence the comparison. In Airmatic Sport mode on a flat surface, I receive: Front dimensions: 390 mm by 390 mm Back: 370mm / 370mm

I sincerely appreciate it. That is an excellent recommendation. It is logical for the purpose of comparison. I will request individuals to employ that technique instead, after I have obtained new measurements.

Greetings everyone, could someone possessing a CLS X218 AMG Line equipped with the original 19” AMG wheels and complete AIRMATIC system provide a comparison of ride-height measurements with my vehicle? My vehicle is a 2017 CLS 350d Shooting Brake, featuring the original staggered 19-inch configuration: Front: 255/35 R19 Rear: 285/30 R19 Measured on a flat surface from the lower metallic edge (NOT from the base of the tire) of the alloy straight up to the wheel-arch lip: Comfort: Front 670 mm, Rear 640 mm Sport: Front 650 / 650 millimetres, Rear 630 / 630 millimetres If anyone possesses an identical wheel/tyre configuration, could you kindly assess yours in Comfort and Sport utilising the same technique and share the four measurements? I am especially curious if the measurements of approximately 670 mm in the front and 640 mm in the rear in Comfort mode are standard for the X218. I appreciate it!

Greetings, esteemed colleagues, I have explored all the recommended links on our website for the paint code, but they all appear to be outdated. I am in pursuit of that for the 2012 Mondeo Panther Black Metallic. I would be immensely grateful, as my vehicle was damaged by an individual who simply departed. What truly pains me is that I have possessed it for a decade, and until now, it was completely flawless. Is the code located on the vehicle at any point, as I am aware that BMWs (apologies for referencing this brand!) display it atop the suspension turret.

Thanks for getting back to me. I'm going to use my handyman skills to fix it myself. I plan to inject foaming dpf cleaner into the thicker pipe that is attached to the dpf diff pressure sensor above the turbo assembly. I watched some videos from O Riley Autos and he does a lot of dpf cleans on the go and usually doesn't need to force regen because the cleaner does the job. I'll keep you posted once I finish. Cheers!

The EML light turned on, and the two codes that showed up were DPF and MAF sensor. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with cleaning the DPF on a 2014 Vito 113 diesel and could give me some pointers. Thank you!

Mazda sends me four or five reminders to pay every month. I have an excellent credit history and have never been late. A few of emails and two or three texts serve as reminders for me. I paid on the first, but I was late because it was a holiday weekend and because the app asked me to pay twice. I received one or two notifications about the late payment. Their seatbelt reminders and Mazda payment reminders must have been done by the same person.

rear nearside, i.e., the passenger side in a right-hand drive vehicle, is where you'll find the sensor that regulates the speedometer, fuel gauge, and other instruments. I had to change mine once after the trifecta lights came up; the process wasn't difficult, but I did need protective eyewear because grit stayed in my eyes for a week.

Based on the symptoms and code, it seems that the rear right sensor or the reluctor could be the culprit. With a 99% certainty, Speedo uses data from the rear left sensor.

Is there anyone who wishes mpg displayed more than 99.9 percent? They made it such that it doesn't... I don't understand why.