Doncaster34

It would be too simple to surrender. Arranged, task completed. Conclusion: The back pressure sensor that was initially purchased, which was an expensive "Original" sensor made in Germany, was found to be incorrect. It displayed a pressure reading that was approximately 400hpa higher than it should have been. It is possible that this sensor is either an absolute or relative sensor, as indicated in this document: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10158249-9999.pdf. However, it is worth noting that this sensor has the same part number A0051535028. I recently purchased the most inexpensive item I could find on eBay for 11 pounds. It successfully functioned and featured a Mercedes logo, indicating it was manufactured in China. As a result, I now have appropriate back pressure, although the boost pressure sensor is slightly beyond the desired range. However, I have already ordered another inexpensive replacement from eBay, which will arrive in a day's time, also priced at 11 pounds. I am pleased that everything is now resolved and the engine sounds pleasant and operates smoothly. This information may be beneficial to someone.

Today, when attempting to detach the sensors individually in real-time, I saw that removing the MAP and MAF sensors resulted in a decrease in back pressure. Consequently, I have placed an order for a new MAP sensor after seeing that the values it provides are over the acceptable pressure range.

Thank you for comprehending. Now, it is essential to complete the task since I have invested a significant amount of time and money. Until now, I have considered the possibility of a catalytic issue, but I remain unconvinced that this is the problem. The exhaust flow appears to be functioning well at idle, as I can feel it up to a distance of 1.5 metres. Additionally, I have attempted another forced regeneration using cataclean in the fuel and DPF/Catalytic cleaner foam inserted into the catalytic converter through the temperature sensor slot.The oil was replaced thereafter. Upon reevaluation, I found that the back pressure remained unchanged at approximately 1500mpa before and after regeneration. However, upon further investigation, I observed that the EGR valve was randomly opening and closing, causing the back pressure to fluctuate between 1400mpa and 1600mpa. As a result, I have discarded the hypothesis that the catalytic converter is obstructed. So, the question is: what might be the reason of elevated back pressure when another sensor is added to the system? It is possible that the back pressure sensor is faulty, despite being new. It seems to be very sensitive, since it is displaying a reading of 1500mpa instead of the expected 1000mpa. I have purchased an additional sensor, namely a more affordable Chinese one, in order to verify this.

I suspected that the catalytic converter was clogged, so I removed the catalytic converter from the diesel particulate filter (DPF). However, the pressure did not change. Then, I removed the bolts between the turbocharger and the catalytic converter, and the pressure in the exhaust system decreased as expected.

There has been no advancement in my current situation. I am contemplating the reason behind the rapid decrease in exhaust back pressure at about 2000 rpm. It might be due to the activation of the turbocharger or the engagement of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system.

Currently, I am experiencing stress as the code has returned, but the vehicle is no longer entering limp mode. The specific code is 2641-008. I have previously replaced the rear exhaust sensor and also the MAF sensor as a precautionary measure. I kindly want assistance or suggestions, as I am on the verge of surrendering.

Replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor with a new, authentic one. The error code is no longer appearing, even during intense acceleration. However, sometimes I can still hear a high-pitched sound from the turbo between 3000 and 4000rpm.(perhaps a leakage of compressed air someplace). How can I perform a diagnostic test on the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor for this specific engine? Will the engine stop if I disconnect it while it is running? When I detach my device, the engine noise changes somewhat but does not cease.

Update: I have successfully performed a forced diesel particulate filter (DPF) renewal using xentry. Initially, there was a significant amount of smoke for the first 2 minutes, but it cleared up thereafter until the regeneration process was completed, which took around 20 minutes. The temperature throughout the regeneration process reached roughly 630 degrees. The smoke dissipated. I took the van for a test drive and drove it for approximately 15 minutes. During the drive, the coolant temperature increased to around 70 degrees Celsius and there was no smoke. However, when I accelerated and shifted from 3rd to 4th gear, I heard a sound resembling a turbo or boost whining, and then the vehicle went into limp mode. I drove back to the starting point and checked for error codes, which revealed the presence of code 2089-008 b18. This code indicates a malfunction in the exhaust back pressure sensor, which is a plausible explanation for the issue.

Greetings, everyone. After doing maintenance on my Vito V6 with the OM642 engine (equipped with a diesel particulate filter), I am now experiencing an abundance of smoke.Prior to the issue, my work routine was ordinary with no smoke. This allows me to rule out injector failure and a malfunctioning EGR cooler, since the coolant level remains consistent and clean. Completed tasks: - seals for the oil cooler - The swirl flaps were removed since they were trapped in the open position with a resistor modification prior to the work. All seals were replaced during the maintenance, and both the fuel and air filters were also replaced. - The seals on the injectors have been replaced. - A new return pipe has been installed since the previous one was leaking significantly on two injectors, causing a diesel leak. Additionally, the injector chamber was found to be filled with diesel. During a lengthy journey, I observed a warning on the dashboard indicating that the oil level was too high. In response, I replaced the PCV valve and breather. Following this maintenance, I decided to change the oil. To do so, I added a flush and ran the engine for approximately 10 minutes. At this point, there was no smoke present. However, it is possible that I made an error during the subsequent step, which involved changing the oil and filter. I opted for Fuchs Titan GT1 5w40, a brand I have not previously used, but is compatible with Mercedes-Benz vehicles.- I inadvertently initiated a DPF regeneration process while using Xentry, resulting in the release of smoke. I now see that this action is likely responsible for 99% of the issue. Consequently, the regeneration process now attempts to complete every time I start the vehicle. Is there a method to halt the process of regeneration before it is fully completed?Is there any way to resolve the issue of not being able to smoke for 20 minutes in my location, such as doing an ECU reset or trying other methods? Could there be another issue here? I appreciate any assistance you may provide in advance.

Did the engine come to an immediate halt? Are there any atypical sounds? If the engine is unable to rotate, I agree with biketeacherdave's assessment that the crankshaft is likely fractured.

The car was purchased from an authorised Kia dealership last week. Complete service records from an authorised dealer. Can the car's tendency to deviate be attributed to a loss of steering control? In the past, I have seen an occurrence of electric power steering failure. The only symptom observed was a significant increase in the effort required to steer, without any accompanying deviation in the steering direction. The act of tugging is the aspect that is most worrisome. Although it remains hazardous, I could endure the abrupt increase in steering effort. However, experiencing both an increase in effort and a tugging sensation is more difficult to take.

I would expect a primary dealer automobile to be appropriately certified.

Regrettably, it seems that our venture into owning a Kia will be brief and enjoyable. There doesn't seem to be any issues with the vehicle or the battery. Currently, it is accurate to state that we have complete lack of confidence in the automobile. The actions taken last night almost resulted in a significant accident. Without any prior indication, the vehicle abruptly attempted to veer us off the motorway, accompanied by a multitude of error lights blinking. Fortunately, it occurred during the late hours of the night when there was no traffic, and the route had a designated area for emergency stopping, which we used to regain control of the vehicle. I see this problem evolving into a protracted warranty dispute, leaving us with a vehicle that we lack confidence in and have no desire to use. Given that we have already paid £17.5k, this is an undesirable predicament. Since we are still inside the cooling off time after the purchase, we will return it. Unfortunately, it is an automobile with exceptional specifications.

Additionally, I would like to mention, Today, I drove the vehicle to work for the first time and I found the lane assist system to be very assertive. My partner mentioned it, but she has little familiarity with a car equipped with lane assist. The excessive weight of the steering caused a significant increase in difficulty and resulted in the vehicle turning excessively when cornering, in my opinion. I first disregarded it as a matter of the settings, but it fell into a vague realm where I was uncertain if it was intentionally designed that way or if there was something somewhat off about it. I am quite familiar with automobiles equipped with lane assist - both my Volvo and my prior car have this feature. The firm Toyota offers it, and most rental vehicles have it, especially for business trips. Individuals who are unfamiliar with it may first see it as peculiar, leading them to be somewhat dismissive when my spouse inquired about it. This was the most assertive I have seen lane assist on a car, perhaps surpassing others by a significant degree.

Appreciation is extended. I have not seen any indications of loose terminals. Despite turning off the engine and vigorously shaking, all components remain operational.

Observation: She had come to a halt, and the tachometer and speedometer had stayed frozen at the speed at which the issue had arisen. After turning off the automobile, she began receiving notifications indicating that the key was not detected. Nevertheless, the automobile has been successfully turned on and all functions have returned to their usual state. However, we have absolutely no intention of driving the vehicle. The automobile can remain operational to maintain warmth in the cab, but there is now little confidence in its reliability. Do you have any hypotheses on the possible causes of the event?

Greetings, The car is now immobilised on the A9. My partner has a 2021 Kia Sportage 1.6 diesel hybrid with the highest level of specifications, and it is a manual gearbox. The car has accumulated a mileage of 21,000 kilometres and we have just acquired it. While driving on the motorway, the driver experienced a rapid activation of all the dashboard lights, a significant increase in steering effort, and the vehicle veering to the left. The passenger also saw that the automobile seemed to be attempting to steer itself, with the steering wheel exerting strong resistance against the driver's control. Without a firm shoulder, she would have collided. The automobile partially entered that lane. My partner was driving and she is a little lady, measuring 5'2" and weighing 55kg - she had difficulty handling the steering wheel. Upon reaching a halt, the dashboard displayed the following configuration.

Thank you so much, for composing this. A few weeks ago, I installed fresh valve cover gaskets and replaced the engine mounts. I saw a significant improvement in my well-being, but, today my vehicle began to have intermittent engine failure. The vehicle's performance was somewhat uneven after the installation of new engine mounts, and the shifting was not optimal. However, these issues were much improved after reconnecting the purge pipe. Your article was essential in helping me identify the issue, which I would not have been able to do otherwise. I am quite pleased with the outcome.

My automobile already reaches its lowest point without getting any lower.

Thank you for the responses. While I am not seeking track-level performance, I do like pushing the limits on winding roads. As far as I know, my suspension has not been modified since it was first installed 140,000 miles ago. Additionally, there is a broken spring on the front, therefore I will replace all four springs with standard parts.

Seeking input from those with prior experience with Bilstein shock absorbers. I get that the B6 and B8 have identical valve configurations, however the B8 model is of shorter length. I own a 2013 C220 S204 equipped with the original factory-installed lowered suspension. I am interested in replacing the shocks and springs. I want to maintain the current height of the vehicle and I am uncertain if I should choose for B6 or B8 shocks. I have sent an email to Bilstein, but I have not received a response. Is the B8, which is shorter, too short to be compatible with factory lowered springs?

One may also consider comparing the colour of the gearbox fluid with a gearbox fluid colour chart in order to assess its proximity to the point of requiring replacement. The colour dark brown need modification, red is fresh, and the colour in between is... in the middle.

As a basic modification, you have the option to change the front grille. There are several choices available, including the C63 appearance (but there are also various additional alternatives to choose). Nevertheless, purchasing it will cost you between £100 and £150. Additionally, you will be required to notify your insurance provider, which, given your age of 17, may result in higher expenses.

We had several enjoyable gatherings. Recently, a remembrance on Facebook showed us at Hartside café in the snow with almost no vision.

It's enjoyable to see impressive automobiles from a decade or more ago, when high-quality hot hatches like the Mazda3 MPS could be purchased new for about £20k. Considering the current high prices of vehicles, I dread to imagine the cost of an equal model in today's market.