VVC-Geeza

I shared this in the cx90 group and was sent here by someone. Any new information? My device produces similar unpredictable sounds. The dealership was unable to identify the issue, and Mazda HQ service has no record of such occurrences. It seems they do not document these problems for comparison.

Sent direct message

Is there a website that can provide me with the colour code for black based on the VIN? Would it be stated elsewhere?

Charge up to 80% and always keep your device plugged in when possible.

My experience mirrors that of the individual described.

It seems that the necessary course of action is connecting the blue radio accessory wire to the black/blue remote wire on the amplifier socket, namely the bottom plug as seen in the aforementioned visual aids given by DrFeelGood.

Indeed. Consider acquiring resistors that may provide evidence to support the functionality of the engine sensor.

Alternatively. One potential approach would be to get a selection of resistors spanning the aforementioned range, and proceed to establish connections at the engine sensor location. Subsequently, observe the resulting readings on the gauge.

Have you conducted an examination to ascertain the presence of these readings at the designated connections, indicated by the symbol "C"?

Oh! It may be advisable to use a voltmeter set to measure voltage across the terminals of the battery in order to ascertain the readings obtained when different loads are activated. Could you please provide information on the engine thermostat? I failed to see that particular item on your first list.

Additionally. The potential cause of the throttle potentiometer malfunction might perhaps be attributed to the wear and tear of its tracks.

It seems that there may be a problem with the voltage stabilizer. Have you conducted an assessment of battery voltage under different load conditions in order to determine whether there are any fluctuations? Could you perhaps provide more context or specify the kind of voltage regulator you are referring to? I possess a comprehensive article on the topic of Electronic Throttle Mapping (ETM) for a Soft Dashboard. I will examine the matter at hand when I have the time throughout the weekend.

Thank you for your response. I had not before seen a pin-lock mechanism incorporated into a tensioner device. However, it is often more convenient to access the majority of tensioners. I just thought that if I could lock it in place then I could put the belt on easy from top side. Subsequently, proceed to position oneself underneath the vehicle and proceed with the removal of the locking pin subsequent to the installation of the belt. Currently, I am using a wrench to manipulate the tensioner, while concurrently employing a rope to secure the wrench in a fixed position. This ensures that the tensioner is turned to its maximum extent, resulting in the slack position. I am now experiencing difficulty in achieving a proper fit with the belt. I am optimistic that the belt measuring 91-3/16 inches will be suitable for the intended use.

The purchase of a 2024 SV was made at the manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP), with the anticipated delivery scheduled for the month of December.

Are you aware of the specific electrical component or system that is powered by the aforementioned fuse? If that is the case, I would recommend disconnecting all devices that are powered by it. Then, with the key in the on position, proceed to connect each of those end devices one by one until the specific device that causes the fuse to blow is identified. Proceeding from that point

At what juncture does the fuse get disrupted? The task of locating it will be incumbent upon you. In the event that the key switch is activated and the fuse has a malfunction, it is advisable to disconnect the end devices that are being powered by the fuse. Next, activate the key and proceed to connect the end devices one by one until the fuse is blown, indicating the presence of a short circuit either inside the device itself or in the cabling leading to it.

It is recommended that you enroll in a remedial reading course. Please rectify the issue independently.

Please refer to post number 4, where it is stated that if one has a genuine analog meter, the needle will exhibit a certain degree of movement when activated. Please rectify the text independently.

Why continue to make posts if they can be replaced?

When using a genuine analog meter, the needle will exhibit movement upon activation. I have not personally seen any instances of coil packs malfunctioning, with the exception of occurrences reported in relation to Ford vehicles. Nevertheless, in the event that the engine operates intermittently, it is unlikely that the issue may be attributed to a faulty coil pack. In addition, it should be noted that you replaced it with a different one.

It is necessary to get a testing instrument. The object in question has resemblance to an ice pick, with a transparent handle housing a metallic component inside, specifically composed of lead. Connect the lead to the ground, insert the pick end into the boot, and see if the light flashes, indicating the firing of the coil.

Yet another Mazda got the solution. Wheel bearings

Six-speed touring 2016 Mazda6

However, I must admit that the noise began after I had a local mechanic work on the brakes. They went back three times, at which point they attempted recutting and replacing the pins because they thought there could be some wiggle room. Mazda checked them out since I was taking the car in to get the tensioner replaced under warranty. After I inquired about the noise, they decided to have the struts replaced. The report concluded, "Well, we do see some hot spots on the rotors."

Videos make it hard to hear, but when the vehicle is going faster than roughly 15 mph, you can hear a squeaking sound that is reminiscent of the low brake pad warning when you use the brakes. The other sound, which I'll grant sounds like a suspension sound, is only audible at extremely low speeds, but disappears as soon as you release the brake.