VVC-Geeza

Registration numbers are variable; thus, the VIN is more precise, particularly when verifying items that may have altered in their identification.

Is there one that likes both female and male turbos?

I maintain cellular equilibrium. Air conditioning charging. Do not keep the automobile stationary for extended periods at 100% charge.

The software and hardware are excessively slow to load at startup, causing frustration during the waiting period. The driver profile fails to recognise you, necessitating the selection of the driver post-loading.Adjusting the seat and steering wheel is expedited by just pressing the driver number button located beneath the steering wheel.

The Smart-Top was supplied and installed by Comand Online in an expedited manner today.I scarcely had time to complete my scampi and chips at the neighbourhood tavern. I am absolutely enamoured with it. Appreciated exploring the owner's exquisite SL600 V12; it is very magnificent. I highly endorse the service provided by these individuals.

Comand Online has proposed to supply and install for £550, which I will accept. I am enquiring if they can also perform an Android Auto upgrade concurrently.

I have emailed them, but I am not optimistic as they do not offer this device and may be reluctant to undertake installation.

I sent an email to MBS in Southampton, but they have not responded. There has been no reply from PCS in Horndean either.Has anyone had one installed by a garage on the South Coast?

Significant wear would require driving over numerous obstacles while applying substantial brakes or acceleration, in my opinion.

Vindecoderz indicates the year 2011. I presume you are referring to it indicating the year as 2011.5?

I could have already experienced speed control. However, I cannot assert that it manifests each time the forward sensor code is present.

My vehicle has the same issue around once a month, consistently when in motion; it has never manifested at startup or while using cruise control. It mainly occurs after an encounter with a pothole or an abrupt road irregularity. I prefer not to remove my front bumper, and my vehicle is an early 2011 AB model that seems to have certain components from 2010. The 2010 model had two sensors under the bumper, however the subsequent 2011 and 2012 models are equipped with a single sensor located below the bumper cover. I am uncertain about the version I own, if I have the dual sensor variation, and which, if any, is defective. I am unable to access the area behind the bumper to ascertain if the connector(s) could be loose. I expect to endure it, at least until the temperature significantly increases in this area.

I have conducted a search on Google and explored many forums. Has anybody successfully resolved the problem with the forward alert sensor? I have seen this code many times in GAP: C1A67-96. As is often understood, it dissipates with the vehicle's cycle (stop/start). It functioned for many weeks, but then unexpectedly reemerged. Deactivated and reactivated the Range; all functions are operating normally. It is suggested that the front sensor requires replacement. Some assert that the front sensor has faulty wiring or requires alignment (necessitating bumper removal). I am capable of doing this task; however, it would be unfortunate if a replacement sensor were needed and I did not possess it prior to removing the bumper. However, the sensor is expensive, if I can locate one. Some even suggest it may be a defective battery. The resting voltage seems to be around 12.22 volts. During winter, I sometimes saw 11.96 volts, and all I did was open the doors. Should I consider replacing the battery? The battery is about 2-3 years old and comes from Land Rover. Regardless, I acknowledge the abundance of discussions on this topic; yet, after 13 years, there seems to be no conclusion or definitive answer. Perhaps none exists, humorously speaking.

I believe the hue is aesthetically pleasing; nonetheless, the back arches need some enhancement. It resembles a C220d with a front-end modification.

Since it is an intermittent failure, inspect for damaged wires or bad connections prior to replacing the sensor.

Weld a nut onto it. Garages possess the equipment necessary for their removal. Remove all four and utilise standard bolts; I employ this method. No wheels have been stolen for many years.

However, I had already departed and replaced the battery. I saw a rapid decline in battery voltage, which was occurring with increasing frequency. We must observe the progression of events. It seems to have occurred in many areas with strong cellular service, therefore I am uncertain; I would not anticipate the system upgrade to be very power-intensive......It appears that incidents have consistently occurred when I have left the car unlocked or the doors ajar. While I concur that interior lights consume minimal current, my parents' Range Rover frequently experienced battery depletion due to leaving the boot open for their dogs, who preferred to remain in the back during the day, likely to avoid being left alone at home. I believe the interior lights are filament lamps. I own a booster that has functioned well on many occasions; nevertheless, this morning, after using it to start the vehicle, I had issues upon disconnection, including a flickering display and a 12V battery alert.

I anticipate travelling there if I can repair the vehicle; else, I will cycle with several bungee cords for the rear rack. Cycling may be safer than the chance of being stuck with a two-ton vehicle.

Thank you both; it seems that a replacement is necessary, since the voltage is sometimes alarmingly low (below 6V). Thank you for the further information; I will explore the battery monitoring possibilities. It is unfortunate that I need the automobile today; I must resolve this matter urgently, but that is life.

My vehicle is now 2.5 years old, and I had my first issue with the auxiliary battery last April when it was 1.75 years old. I was working outside, and the car was left unlocked and open for many hours while turned off, resulting in the auxiliary battery being depleted to the extent that the vehicle would not start. I borrowed a charger, which provided sufficient power to the battery, allowing me to go, and I believed the battery was only depleted by the inside lights. During my midsummer service, I requested Kia to inspect the battery; they said it was functioning OK. Everything was satisfactory for many months; nevertheless, there was another instance when the automobile was left unlocked for a few hours while I worked in proximity, however I ensured the doors were closed to minimise discharge from the inside lights. It failed to boot once again. I attempted a trickle charge for some time, but to no avail. Fortunately, a kind Mitsubishi PHEV owner and neighbour expressed interest and offered me his booster battery. This was not successful first, so I had lunch and attempted it again a few hours later. I presented him with a bottle of wine and purchased my own booster, which I have had to use many times lately when the vehicle was left unattended for about an hour without any doors being opened. After providing the extensive information, I am attempting to determine if there is a component depleting the auxiliary battery fast when the vehicle is unlocked, or whether a new battery is necessary. - 2 A battery dying after 1 to 2 years seems premature. The vehicle is unmodified; I have not installed any other components, save from a USB drive with MP3 files, which likely consumes little power. Today, I received a warning on the instruments indicating "check 12V battery." Do you have any opinions? Thank you. *It is peculiar that the vehicle is likely left unlocked and open for an extended duration for servicing; so, why did Kia fail to address the issue?

The DPF on the MK3 is quite uncommon. Typically, just the CAT.

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I concur.

No, I am afraid not; I will wait to see what they propose.

Thank you for the responses; I will update you all upon receiving more information.